Thunder River-Tapeats Creek-Deer Creek – May 2008
Preview
Eden overlook, creek crossing blues, Yermo vs. the brownie, waterfalls and rainbows, hearing loss, and fake rattlesnakes.
Day 1 – Bill Hall Trailhead to Surprise Valley
Descend Bill Hall Trail to Thunder River Trail. Lunch break and water cache at edge of Esplanade. At base of Redwall, Jack-Attack light-headed, 
nauseous, classic dehydration symptoms on a hot day. Encourage him to refuel on fluids until feeling better. Camp at east edge of Surprise Valley, splendid views.
Day 2 – Surprise Valley to Tapeats Rapids
Descend to Thunder River for some lounge time. Great to be back in Eden. Tapeats Creek crossing too dangerous, stay on west route down to camp at River. We catch a few rainbow trout and 1 monster brown trout. Swallows out in force above lower Tapeats, enjoying an insect feeding frenzy.
Day 3 – Tapeats Rapids to Deer Creek
Pass thru River rat camp on hot (as usual) route to Deer Creek. Easier to follow east bank of Deer Creek to camp, unsure but something seems different here from 2 years ago, maybe flash flood damage? Lounge time down at Deer Creek Falls, River rats everywhere. My fishing pole breaks, but D.K. catches a few more rainbows. Dories camped across River. Return thru Deer Creek narrows, raven eating a headless kingsnake on “the Patio.” Western patchnose snake near camp.
Day 4 – Deer Creek to Esplanade
Ascend Deer Creek Trail to Deer Creek Spring, pump water, up to Surprise Valley, up the Redwall. Resting on Esplanade, Jack-Attack complains of hearing loss, it seems the Redwall is out to get him this trip. Dry camp short of Bill Hall junction. Some asshole left used TP nearby…disgusting. Happy hour on mushroom rocks for sunset. Jack-Attack still having difficulty hearing normal volume conversation.
Day 5 – Esplanade to Bill Hall Trailhead
Large gopher snake suntanning right across trail, gives fake rattlesnake tail shake. Out to trailhead by 10am for ice cold Tecates.
Recap
Getting down to Surprise Valley for Camp 1 is preferred over Esplanade. Brownie is biggest fish I ever caught in Canyon, about 20 inches and 3 lbs. Never seen so many snakes on 1 trip. Jack-Attack’s normal hearing did return several days later, no explanation for why he lost it, maybe elevation gain on Redwall ascent?
Thanks for the beautiful memories! I did this hike back in 1973 or 1974 with a wonderful group. I have several slides from the trip. This was one of the most awesome backpacking trips I have ever done – walking through time, across the valleys with varied formations – on the descent into the canyon. We made base camp beside Tapeats creek below Thunder River, using a sort of half-cave for shelter. Then the walk along cliffs down to the inner gorge was spectacular.