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Day 1 – Bill Hall Trailhead to Esplanade above Surprise Valley:

A false start extends our labors, & lounging preempts noisy neighbors.

The Bill Hall Trail actually starts with a short uphill climb before descending through the Coconino. At Monument Point we gaze west upon the broad expanding Esplanade. Perhaps the view distracts us, but we continue past the cairned descent onto a foot path that borders the rim. After maybe twenty minutes we can see the trail far below us to the southwest and it’s obvious we screwed up. We backtrack to the correct trail and start hiking down.

The descent finally levels out after about two miles as we reach the Esplanade. It’s a hot day and we have lunch in the shade of a large juniper tree. At the junction with the Thunder River Trail we start bearing south. The nature of the hike shifts from strenuous to a pleasant winding stroll along numerous terraces. Temperature keeps rising and we take another break in the shade of an overhang.

Eventually we arrive at the camps above the Redwall descent into Surprise Valley. We will spend the night here and also leave a water cache for our return in three days. There’s still plenty of daylight so Mantis and I explore around camp before settling in for cigars and cocktail hour.

After dinner I lounge atop a rock overlooking Surprise Valley and watch as several headlamps make their way up towards me. It’s a group of hikers that we graciously allow to share our camp. Our reward? They thank us by jabbering and actually singing away loudly until past midnight. Sometimes even in the remote reaches of The Canyon it is impossible to escape the presence of idiots.

Day 2 – Esplanade above Surprise Valley to Tapeats Rapids:

“I’ve been to Eden” or “Ponce de Leon should have used my map.”

Wake up at 4:30 am after very little sleep, just barely starting to get light. We’re all dehydrated and thirsty, with limited water remaining without raiding our cache. There is a sense of urgency to get down to Thunder River and Mantis leaves within minutes. The desire to kick our noisy neighbors awake is forgivable, but only a temptation.

Old Man and I follow along down the Redwall descent and then east across Surprise Valley. Two hikers coming out pass us. We’re heading to Tapeats Rapids so they tell us the creek is crossable and we can hike the much easier eastern route.

The Old Man and I run out of water at the east end of Surprise Valley, just as the sun comes up over the Tapeats gorge. Here we catch our first glimpse of Thunder River, and what a glorious sight to behold. Two jet streams of water burst forth from an imposing cliff face like dual giant fire-hoses. It’s a subterranean river that literally explodes out of the cliff into a fantastic waterfall.

Old Man tells me it’s the thirstiest he’s ever been and we hustle down to meet Mantis, already at the water. The oasis at the base of the falls may be the most incongruous scene I’ve witnessed in the backcountry. This is a harsh, burning desert brown landscape of jagged rock and piercing thorn. Yet here cold water flows, the green foliage of cottonwoods twinkle with life, and scarlet monkeyflowers are in full bloom.

We soak up this Eden and drink our fill of nature’s champagne. Mantis and I take showers under the falls. They take a nap and I climb up the path that approaches Thunder River Cave at the top of the falls. To reach the cave there is at least one exposed edge to negotiate. I know it’s been done, but I don’t have the stomach for it.

Our solitude is invaded briefly by a group of River rats on a day hike. There is no camping allowed here, but the urge to stay is nearly irresistible. After several hours we pack up and trek down to the junction with Tapeats Creek, which appears to have a slightly higher volume of flow than Thunder River. We know the east route is a much easier hike so we find the best apparent place to cross, just below the upper campground. The crossing is as difficult as it looks in swift, thigh-deep water. I am glad to have my trekking pole, and even happier when it’s over.

The next two miles border the creek, winding in and out of prickly pear patches. We take the liberty of dunking in the creek a couple times on a hot day. The second crossing back to the west side is shallow and easy. The trail climbs above the lower Tapeats narrows and then switchbacks down to The River.

We make camp on the west bank of the confluence across from some River rats. Mantis and the Old Man opt to rest while I explore downstream to try my luck fishing. Several suckers or bottom-feeders give my bait visible interest, but there are no takers. Despite losing about 3,500 feet of elevation, tonight’s camp is definitely colder with a cool breeze blowing off The River only a few feet away.

Day 3 – Tapeats Rapids to Deer Creek:

Which combo does not belong? Narrows & pictographs; waterfalls & rainbows; or campsites & rattlesnakes?

Up quite early again to take advantage of cooler temperatures. The next four miles downstream involve some strenuous boulder-picking and a steep climb above the Granite Narrows, all over virtually shade-less terrain. It’s a tough hike and definitely the hottest day thus far. Old Man’s small thermometer reads in the upper nineties by the time we reach the saddle into Deer Creekabout midday.

We shake more dust down to the water and enjoy a refreshing dunk in the creek. The so called Patio at the head of Deer Creek Narrows is a nice, shady spot to rest up. After lunch we head down the narrows. The rate of erosion here is staggering. Within minutes there is a plunge down into the creek that is only inches from our feet and probably fatal.

The Granite Narrows overlook above Deer Creek Falls has some of the finest Inner Gorge views that The Canyon can offer up. Mantis and I will hike down to the falls while the Old Man takes a look at the steep descent and decides to rest instead.

Deer Creek Falls are spectacular and we take turns swimming underneath the cascade.

More River rats spoil the scene again and Mantis heads back to upper Deer Creek. I wander downstream and this time luck strikes in the form of a respectable rainbow trout, enough for a three person appetizer anyway. The boats depart so I walk back up and have the falls and some fishing all to myself for the next couple hours. When I get back the Old Man shows me some Anasazi pictographs in the area.

There are two dudes taking up a big chunk of the main campground so we hike upstream to see if there are more designated sites closer to Deer Creek Spring. One possible option exists near the crossing to the spring but it doesn’t seem that cozy. Even less inviting when the Old Man discovers a rattlesnake under a cottonwood watching us. It seems we shall be sharing the main campground.

Old Man prepares the trout with some fish fry and leftover pita bread, delicious. The mice here are aggressive, especially after the Old Man spills some dinner on the ground at his feet. A bold mouse stops on his boot to scavenge the scraps. Mantis actually plunks another off a log with a small rock.

The bugs are out in force tonight so Mantis sets up our tent for the first time. Old Man is old school and tough, he sleeps outside with a wet bandanna over his head.

Day 4 – Deer Creek to Esplanade above Surprise Valley:

A poor man’s Thunder River, a pair of dunces, & a plethora of clouds.

Expecting another hot day, we decided last night to wait until late today to hike back up to the Esplanade; even knowing that trekking after dark with headlamps is probable. So we sleep in a little, then I walk back down to Granite Narrows overlook for one last contemplation upon The River’s narrowest section within the entire Park.

Some serious clouds roll in to cool things down, allowing us a chance to change our hiking plans. We trek up to Deer Creek Spring for lunch and our last water fill up.

This spring is sort of a poor man’s Thunder River. Not nearly the same flow of water, but it still bursts forth with fervor from the cliff, and there is plenty of greenery. We pump the Old Man some water and he starts switchbacking up to Surprise Valley to compensate for our faster pace. Mantis and I hydrate and eat directly behind the falls where a ledge doubles as a makeshift bench. When we’re packing things to leave a large, winged shadow passes over the ground between us. We look up to spot a California condor.

I catch up with Mantis and Old Man at the west end of Surprise Valley where they’re taking a break. They move on as I rest for awhile. The weather remains a blessing as we get some light sprinkling during the Redwall ascent. Near the top we pass two guys heading down. The elder father has a pack the size of a gorilla with a huge flannel sleeping bag strapped on top. His son-in-law is carrying two daypacks, one on his back and the other on his chest. They are planning to do our five day trip in just two days! We discourage them from attempting their entire ambitious itinerary, being perhaps ill prepared both physically and logistically for this monster trek. They continue anyway.

Atop the Redwall we retrieve our water cache and rest for a spell. We have the option of continuing along the Esplanade for a couple more hours before making camp, but we decide to stay here.

Day 5 – Esplanade above Surprise Valley to Bill Hall Trailhead:

To wish that all good things don’t come to an end.

Wake to partly cloudy skies again, we really lucked out for much of this trip. The first few miles of relatively level hiking along the Esplanade are a nice warm-up for the steep ascent. We’re out by lunchtime for a round of cold beers.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.