Tanner to Palisades – October 2009
Preview
On the wisdom of hauling extra water, Beamer advice – buy low sell high, rainbows galore, South Rim bombing, the tastiest cache, and snow on Tanner…again.
Day 1 - Lipan Point to Tanner Redwall
Elk bugles sound alarm clock in forest camp south of Canyon. Cold. Descend Tanner Trail. Mr. Jamrock really struggling. Waiting at 2006 Blizzard Camp, he arrives and promptly vomits twice. Chat with 2 day-hikers. Hike cut short to camp at Redwall overlook, a favorite for the views. Mr. Jamrock naps, drinks his water cache, recovers.
Day 2 – Tanner Redwall to Espejo Island
Pack up Redwall camp, give Mr. Jamrock rest of my water cache. Owl flushes right by my head out of juniper on descent, spooks me to flinch. Out of water at end of Dox traverse, but River refreshment, lounge and hydrate at Tanner Rapids. Up Beamer Trail, take low route past island north of Espejo Creek to camp on beach.
Day 3 – Espejo Island to Palisades Creek
Easy day up to Palisades Creek area. Awesome beach camp. Fisherman’s paradise, rainbows hitting all over the place. Warm, sunny day turns to clear night. Shimmering half-moon light stretches across surface of The River.
Day 4 – Palisades Creek to Tanner Rapids
Roll out of tent, fish on 1st cast, they keep hitting all morning. Retrace hike back to Tanner Rapids camp, more rainbows, waterfowl (grebes?) on River. Day-hike down Escalante Route, prescribed burn on South Rim looks like Canyon Village exploded. Tailless lizard fails multiple attempts to eat flies back in camp. Always mice in this camp.
Day 5 – Tanner Rapids to Tanner Redwall
Ascend Tanner, Mr. Jamrock hauling about 20 lbs of water, amends for start of trip. Log my 500th total Canyon backpacking mile. Camp at Redwall overlook again. Retrieve our cache…4 beers…still cold. Frothy beverages, soak up the views. Very windy night, wake up to re-secure tent.
Day 6 – Tanner Redwall to Tanner Trailhead
Heavy clouds, still windy. Mr. Jamrock saves my sleeping pad from getting blown off cliff. Snow starts
falling right before we reach the trailhead. Perfect timing.
Recap
Not sure why Mr. Jamrock got sick, give Tanner some of the credit for kicking yet another 1st-timer’s ass. Best 2 days of fishing ever had in Canyon. Tanner Redwall camp an all-time Canyon favorite, keep it clean folks. Drive home thru prescribed burn, still smoldering and smoky, but controlled.