Tanner to Grandview – March 2000
Day 1 – Lipan Point to Tanner Beach:
“A Beginners Introduction to The Canyon” or “A New Way to Enjoy Kicking Your Own Ass.”
My first Canyon backpacking trip. Ricky from Chicago, an NAU friend, invites me on this spring break trip after we had done some backpacking in the Sedona area previously. I owe him a debt of gratitude for lighting the original fire under my Canyon loving ass. His friends Dan and Jeff come along, and I invite King Tut also to round out our crew.
We hit Tanner Trail late morning. Keeping my telescopic rod fastened outside of the pack is a mistake. The limited remainder of fishing line gets hopelessly tangled about the reel, officially ending any hopes for a supplemental trout meal on this trek.
Like any Canyon rookie I underestimate the physical challenge and have no experience to understand the psychological battle of Canyon hiking. So naturally the hike kicks my butt. King Tut and I show up last at Tanner Beach, after sunset, completely worn out.
Ricky has decided that we shall cook group meals for the trip, so King Tut and I have tonight’s shift. I cook red beans, rice, and sausage for everyone. Unfortunately Ricky neglected to mention Jeff’s a vegan, so there’s extra food for the rest of us.
Day 2 – Tanner Beach to 75-Mile Canyon:
Escalante Route – A Spanish phrase roughly translating to, “a damn long hike, fraught with near mishap, and flash flood fears.”
Wake up early and sore, we have a long day ahead of us along the Escalante Route. We put some morning miles behind us and then take a short break across The River from Furnace Flats to admire the view. The trek resumes as intermittent rain falls and we contour above the drainage west of Cardenas Creek. In the traverse around Escalante Creek our route choice is probably a mistake and there are some sketchy talus slopes to negotiate. An idea for lunch break to regroup is seconded by all.
Apparently there is a steep shortcut down to Neville Rapids, but we end up on the high route at the crossing of 75-Mile Canyon, just south of The River. At this point we’re all tired and have covered about ten miles. Our correct path lies down this slot canyon, and is cairned. But the high route also continues west around the point. There is a discussion about which way to go.
Ricky is the trip leader and only hiker in our group with Canyon experience. He decides we should stay on the upper route instead of going down 75-Mile Canyon. Dan and Jeff are the strongest hikers in our group, and eager to get into camp so they move on while Ricky and I wait for King Tut. When we finally round the point towards Papago Creek it is getting dark. Dan and Jeff are way ahead of us and gaining significant elevation. This can’t be right.
There is a photocopied description of the route Ricky got somewhere, so I stop him to take a look. Given the length of our hiking day, and based on the blurry map and route description, I believe we have just passed 75-Mile Canyon and our access to The River. I convince Ricky I’m right and we yell out for Dan and Jeff to come back. Luckily they are still barely within earshot and return.
Back at the crossing of 75-Mile Canyon it is now dark and we have another decision to make. There is a down-climb to a narrow depression with just enough room for two tents. We should probably make sure this side canyon deposits us at The River, but we do have plenty of water still to make camp. It’s put to a vote and the tired guys win out, we’re staying here. Dan and Jeff are probably right about continuing, but the prospect of navigating this slot canyon with only a couple flashlights is not inviting.
During the night it starts raining hard. Ricky has been sleeping outside, and suddenly barges into the tent, forcing King Tut and I to the sides where the water is actually puddling. I am cold and wet all night. Choosing this camp was a stupid decision; if this slot canyon flashes we will be shit out of luck.
Day 3 – 75 Mile Canyon to Horseshoe Mesa:
Vishnu preserved & a near recipe for hypothermia.
Ricky has a talent for pointing out the blatantly obvious. Everything is damp or wet, and we’re on limited sleep, trudging around packing up when he says to me, “Hey, your tent isn’t waterproof.” Brilliant deduction considering our drenched state.
There is one more down-climb where we lower packs before reaching The River at Neville Rapids. Thankfully my gut instinct proved out, we are on the correct route. Our first view of the South Rim today reveals a blanket of fresh snow. It’s still cloudy, but not rainy, so we set out some things to dry and pump water.
At Papago Creek we encounter a group of River rats taking a day hike. They tell us we are doing The Canyon the hard way. Easy for them to say. On the west side of Papago Creek there are a series of ledges that require some focus climbing. At Hance Rapids we link up with the Tonto Trail, and continue west; taking the upper bypass to avoid the ledge into Mineral Canyon. We take a long break next to Hance Creek.
Probably a little too long. As we fill up water for the final time at Page Spring, the last rays of sunlight frame Vishnu Temple in a perfect silhouette.
We will not make it atop Horseshoe Mesa before darkness. Ricky takes a wrong turn and we are scrambling on all fours up a steep talus slope for a hundred feet. It’s slippery as hell and I burn a lot of energy fighting gravity until we link back up with the trail. We tighten up our formation, with flashlights at the front and rear, and struggle up the remaining Redwall ascent until we make camp on top of Horseshoe Mesa.
Now I learn an important rookie Canyon lesson. All of my warm clothing is sweat drenched and I have no beanie. The temperature is below freezing and I cannot stop shivering. I am so cold that I wrap my head in Ricky’s spare long johns, skip dinner completely, and jump in the sleeping bag to warm up until I finally tremble asleep.
Day 4 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:
May the snow angels lift thee up.
I wake up surprisingly refreshed after that minor flirtation with hypothermia last night. Just don’t forget to bring a beanie on winter trips. There is a lot of snow on the Grandview Trail as we ascend, all of it deposited from the storms over the last few days.
King Tut is the last to reach Grandview Point and promptly drops his pack, collapses to the ground on his back, and muscles out some exhausted snow angels.
