To read the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

The eleventh hour forced a change to our original itinerary. Pablito, Kaiser, Mr. Jamrock, and I had planned to hike the Gems between South Bass and Boucher, but over a foot of snow and closure of the Hermit Road for an indefinite amount of time made that mostly impossible. We were told by Park Service personnel that we “would need a tank to get to the trailhead.” When the rest of us meet Kaiser to set up a car camp at the South Rim, Pablito balks at all the snow and offers to buy a room at Maswick Lodge for the night. No complaints from anyone. Plan B’s are discussed and at one point we nearly scuttle The Canyon entirely, but we settle on hiking the Escalante Route.

There is so much snow the backcountry office opens 2½ hours late at 10:30 am. This jeopardizes our chance to get to Tanner Rapids before sundown. We soon learn that’s irrelevant because the Desert View road is closed, thus leaving Bright Angel Trail as our only option. I swallow my pride and swap out the permits. Leading a trip from South Bass to Boucher will remain a thorn in my side for now.

This trip will be different, but the company is perfect, and at least we’re still in The Canyon. We hit the trailhead about noon to begin our descent to Indian Garden. The snowfall and clouds are so thick we can’t even see the mile deep gorge we’ve decided to explore. Fortunately a mule train has preceded our passage and there is a well worn path with no ice. Just up the trail from the 1 ½ Mile Resthouse we see a young California condor perched on a cliff face. It has yet to lose all the darker feathers around the head signifying immaturity.

Atop the Redwall clouds finally begin to lift, revealing nice views of the Inner Gorge and snow capped buttes of The Canyon. If we have to stay in developed campgrounds we picked a great time for a storm. Hikers are few and far between, and we share Indian Garden with only one other group.

Everything is damp and there are some patches of snow around, but luckily the snow/rain mix stops falling. Pablito can’t wait to show us his Mexican plaster mug for hot cocoa. He didn’t tell me about it previously, because he knew I would tell him plaster was a bad idea. Reaching into his pack, he finds it broken, never even got to use it once.  As usual, Pablito’s thundering banshee snore echoes off the canyon walls throughout the night.

Day 2 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

Pablito is first to rise early and attempts to wake us all to prepare hot drinks and food for him. He is met with expletive laden rebukes, but it’s enough to get us up and ready for our morning day-hike to Plateau Point. Yesterday a Ranger told us the storm would last for a few days, but the sky is almost entirely clear. The scenery from the point is spectacular. We can see Bright Angel Trail descending into the canyon cut by Pipe Creek. Granite Gorge plummets beneath our feet to the west. The snow clad faces of Zoroaster and Brahma Temples are especially striking.

The trek from Indian Gardento Bright Angelis just shy of five miles. We follow Garden Creek until the drainage becomes nearly impassable; then detour along the trail to the adjacent eastern side canyon and switchback down the Devil’s Corkscrew to Pipe Creek.

Below the switchbacks another half hour brings us to Pipe Creek Beach and our first close encounter with The River. A slight, sandy climb up Canyon leads to the first of two suspension bridges that cross over to Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Looking beneath my feet at The River through the grated metal of Silver Bridgecreeps me out more than many other exposed areas of The Canyon I’ve encountered.

We choose one of the bigger B.A. campsites and put Pablito in the corner to mitigate the banshee snoring. Kaiser learns a Canyon lesson the hard way. After nightfall he leaves his tent open briefly and a ringtail darts in, grabs some peanuts and climbs thirty feet up a massive cottonwood, all within a matter of seconds. Throughout the night our perimeter is patrolled and invaded by that ringtail; and one small opportunistic skunk that takes advantage of the peanuts dropped by the ringtail.

For a nightcap we head up to the Phantom Ranch Canteen for a few rounds of $4 cans of beer. One of us asks the young woman behind the counter what kinds of beer they have and she replies, “Bud.” The canteen is warm and our spirits are high, as closing nears we are the only customers in the joint.

Day 3 – Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground:

The trek continues today as we plan to hike about seven miles up the North Kaibab Trail, following Bright Angel Creekthe whole way.  Shortly after departing upstream beyond Phantom Ranch, we pass the Clear Creek Trail junction. I take a mental note because I’ll be hiking up that way on a another trip only twenty days from now.

The slot canyon cut by Bright Angel Creek is spectacular and deep with dozens of twists and turns. I wish we had more time to explore the even narrower side canyons and tributaries. There are several bridges to cross, before the canyon opens up to a wider, sunny valley. We stop for lunch above Willow Springs. I am reminded once again of the dramatic temperature fluctuations in The Canyon. Two days ago we were bundled up hiking through snow. Right now we’re comfortably hanging out shirtless and eating lunch so our sweaty clothes can dry out.

As usual I conservatively underestimate how far we’ve come, when we approach the junction to Ribbon Falls it’s only lunchtime. We decide to skip the falls for tomorrow and continue on to Cottonwood Campground. There is a small waterfall where the trail crosses Wall Creek.

The campground is situated within a grove of scrub oak, and we choose an open site closer to the creek since we will need to pump water there (the piped water at this campground is shut down during the winter). Again there is only one other small group here and we never even hear them. Pablito’s banshee snore has stirred a vote among the rest of us and he is unanimously banished to the immediate campsite north of us.

We start pumping water at the creek and my filter promptly breaks; some problem with the intake valve. This filter’s been through a lot, perhaps barely enough for this nuisance to be excused. Conveniently, Kaiser brought his pump and we also have backup purifying tablets.

It’s cold and windy tonight but there are lots of stars to gaze at, and some lively debate as to whether the moving ones are planes, satellites, or UFO’s.

Day 4 – Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

The next 2 ½ days will be spent retracing our steps, so we start back towards Phantom Ranch. The side detour to Ribbon Falls is well worth the trip. It’s a beautiful waterfall, perhaps somewhere on par with the likes of Elves Chasm or Deer Creek Falls. We sit behind the falls as sunlight filters through the cascading water to warm our bodies from the cool spraying mist.

Knowing what to expect, we knock out the rest of the hike in short order. This time we choose two sites next to Bright Angel Creek, one is for the banishment of Pablito.

A herd of mule deergrazes in and around our camp. We have seen deer every day of this trip. Two does walk right up to Pablito’s tent while he’s inside, and he never even notices.

After dinner we mosey back over to the Canteen again. This time the place is packed. There are maybe fifty people in here and not a seat to be had. Some folks are just sitting on the floor. We have to drink our first round standing up until some seats finally clear. Luckily the $4 beer tonight is Tecate, so at least there our situation has improved. Back at the campsite Kaiser, Mr. Jamrock, and I enjoy some late night libations.

Day 5 – Bright Angel Campground to Indian Garden Campground:

We awake to cloudy skies, and it appears the bad weather we’d heard about last night from a Canteen patron is going to materialize. Light showers and mist accompany us throughout our hike back up to Indian Garden.

We try to dry our gear out after stopping, but the rain and snow falls just enough to foil us. Mr. Jamrock and I move our tents to a high ground campsite where there’s a little more room under the picnic shelters. We also help to move Pablito’s table so he can stay drier. Kaiser and I finish the last of the whiskey in some hot cocktails, complete with lemon juice and honey packets, courtesy of the Canteen.

Day 6 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead:

We get our earliest start of the trip and make the hike up in about three hours. Light snow and rain makes things interesting and chilly. Ice cold Guinness awaits us in Kaiser’s truck.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

Length:

Water: Except for occasional post-storm potholes, the Colorado River is the only reliable water source along this route.  The River water can be notoriously silty, we recommend using a lightweight, collapsible bucket that will allow the sediment to settle at the bottom.  Just be sure to fill the bucket as soon as you reach camp or a resting spot, as the settling process can take some time.

Campsites: From east to west, the Escalante Route extends through the Tanner, Escalante, and Red Canyon use areas.  All of which are designated for at-large camping.  Certain sites like the sand dunes above Tanner Rapids are restricted so know the regulations before you go.  While marginal dry sites exist along this route away from The River, they should be unnecessary if you plan smartly, as there are a number of great beach camps to take advantage of.  Our favorite camps here include Tanner Beach, Cardenas Creek, Neville Rapids, and Hance Rapids.

Reflections and Attractions: The Escalante Route is a great introduction to route travel in GC for Canyoneers who have gained the appropriate trail experience. Hilltop Ruin is a fine side hike. Camping in flash prone 75-Mile Canyon during a rainstorm is a bit nerve wracking and not recommended. Depending on your perspective and skill level, the Papago Slide and the Papago Wall can be interesting or intimidating. Regardless of your experience, one thing is certain, the views along this route will blow you away.

Warnings and Musings: A young, fit member of the Yermo team tackled this route as part of his first ever GC hike and got physically ass-whooped, temporarily lost, and flirted with hypothermia. In other words, be fully prepared for this hike. Routefinding skills may be required on this trek, especially in the Escalante Creek area.

Mr. Jamrock and I begin our descent on Tanner Trail at about noon, yet another late start caused by various morning setbacks. We spent last night car camping just outside the Park, and sub-freezing early temperatures delayed our packing process. Experience has taught me we need to keep a quick pace to make it to The River before sundown, yet right from the start it is clear Mr. Jamrock’s pack is too heavy and his progress suffers as a result.

At the head of 75-Mile Canyon I wait for Mr. Jamrock to catch up. He looks exhausted and is already drenched with sweat. An hour later I am waiting again in the “blizzard camp” from my Tanner trip three years ago. Mr. Jamrock approaches slowly, lumbering along and breathing heavily, sits down on a boulder and promptly vomits twice. Now my concern shifts from anxiety over the location of tonight’s camp to his well-being. He insists he’s fine despite having a meager breakfast and being nearly out of water. We are both carrying two extra quarts of water to cache atop the Redwall for our return, but now it seems we may need it sooner.

Atop the Redwall descent it is decision time. Daylight is waning and Mr. Jamrock is exhausted, we will camp here. In anticipation of this possibility I have been conserving my water supply so we should be alright, but unfortunately we will have to consume our cache.

There are several fabulous campsites north of the Redwall switchbacks, with some of the most scenic views to be found anywhere in Canyon backcountry.  Like the eye of Sauron, Desert View Watchtower presides over all while perched on the South Rim.  I lounge on the point, soaking up the view, while Mr. Jamrock naps for a spell.  His need to rehydrate those lost fluids has me water nervous so we continue to cautiously ration throughout the night.

Day 2 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to beach north of Espejo Creek:

We skip morning coffee and cocoa to save water and hit the trail early. I give Mr. Jamrock the two quarts I was carrying for the cache that will no longer be available for our return. Coming down the Redwall I spook a large owl (possibly a short-eared owl?) out of a stunted juniper tree. The sudden flight movement startles me.

The sloping traverse below the Redwall is as long as remembered. With no viable options for a sitting rest, this part of the trek always has my toes jamming into the ends of my boots, an uncomfortable hiking situation to be sure. At the hill point before finally dropping into the Tanner drainage I give Mr. Jamrock my last quart of water.

It is a relief to reach The River at Tanner Beach, especially for a dehydrated Mr. Jamrock. We drink our fill of filtered nature’s champagne, make some gatorade, and eat lunch; taking about a two hour rest before our trek resumes up River. As we depart two backpackers trudge into one of the beach camps, looks like a father-daughter team.

Aside from a short climb where the beach is pinched out by cliffs, the hike up Beamer Trail to Espejo Creek is mostly a sandy stroll within earshot of The River. Near the small island north of Espejo Creek the trail forks into an upper and lower route. Around the corner there is a large cairn so we opt to decline the ascent and continue on the low route as it seems passable. The two routes converge back into one across from the north end of the island so the time saved is minimal at best. It appears that the water level would have to be abnormally high to make the low route impassable.

We make camp at a nice sandy beach so I can have some time to fish. The River here is serene and peaceful, but bereft of hungry trout. Fading sunlight casts an illuminating glow on Lava Butte and the stratified colors of Palisades of the Desert.

Day 3 – Beach north of Espejo Creek to Palisades Creek:

I had originally hoped to hike Beamer all the way to the Little Colorado River confluence, but the events of Day 1 have tempered my ambitions out of cautious respect for the demanding nature of the trek. Today will be a short hike to Palisades Creek, more of a layover day really.

There are several nice beach sites to choose from, and we pitch tents right next to The River’s edge, with just enough beach space to account for mildly fluctuating water levels. It is very warm today so we build a shade shelter on the beach, using my tent’s rainfly. Time for some fishing.

First cast…fish on! A nice ten inch rainbow trout, maybe deciding to stay here will be a wise angling choice at least. The fishing here continues to be outstanding, really some of the best I’ve seen in The Canyon. I get a few hits and land several more rainbows, including one at about fourteen inches and two pounds.

With so much fun to be had today, and very little physical work, it would seem that we are undeserving of a cocktail hour. Perhaps so, but that doesn’t stop us anyway. What a gorgeous night, a shimmering half-moon light stretches across the surface of The River.

Day 4 – Palisades Creek to Tanner Beach:

Great beginning to another easy day as I reel in another respectable rainbow on my first cast of the morning. A few more trout are to follow, one of which hit my spinner and fought so hard I initially thought it was a bad snag. I am reluctant to leave but we need to get back to Tanner Beach.

Retracing our steps along Beamer I scare up a couple waterfowl (western grebe or merganser?) near the low route from Day 2. Back at Tanner we have a visitor in camp, a small lizard that has somehow lost its tail. It scurries around for a meal sneaking up on flies but always scares them off at the critical moment.

We travel down River along the Escalante Route to try out the fishing there. Rounding some massive sand dunes a huge plume of smoke is visible above the South Rim. On our drive in we passed some preparations for a prescribed forest burn, and hopefully that’s what we’re looking at. From down here it looks like a massive bomb has exploded on the rim, and we wonder if the planned burn didn’t perhaps get a little out of control.

The current here is too swift for successful angling so I return up River. There is an excellent eddy at the River bend above Tanner Rapids where my efforts are rewarded with a few more rainbows.

Night comes on as we filter gallons of water for our dry camp tomorrow. The first mice encounters of this trip occur as a pair boldly darts in and out of our camp throughout the evening.

Day 5 – Tanner Beach to Tanner Canyon atop Redwall:

Mr. Jamrock has learned his Canyon water lesson and begins today’s trek shouldering a pack that contains about twenty-five pounds of water. I also succumb to the urge to overcompensate my water needs and leave with about nine quarts, way more than I typically carry even in anticipation of a dry camp.

The ascent to the base of the Redwall and then up the switchbacks takes its customary time. All this extra water weight has really taken a physical toll on my body and I’m exhausted when we reach the spur trail to our camp from Day 1. We decide to camp there again so I lay out my sleeping pad for a short nap in the sun.

Wake up feeling completely refreshed, and just in time for a real Canyon treat. While our planned water cache to start the trip didn’t work out, we still had something valuable to stash behind which Mr. Jamrock has retrieved – four cold cans of beer. We sit on the point, admiring the view and sipping our tasty, frothy beverages.

It’s the coldest night of the trip and I use every layer of clothing I have packed. Hot drinks are a warm welcome for our last night in The Canyon.

Day 6 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to Tanner Trailhead:

Around 3 am this morning the wind really picks up and starts battering our tents relentlessly. My tent panels are making such a racket while whipping against my head and body that I have to get up twice to re-secure the tent. Even after sunrise the intense winds will not abate, if not for a quick move by Mr. Jamrock my sleeping pad nearly blows off the point into a thousand foot freefall.

Extreme gusts are prevalent throughout or trek to the rim but we persevere. We reach the parking area at Lipan Point with perfect timing. Just as we’re saluting a great trip with a couple cold beers it starts snowing. Getting back on the road, the prescribed burn we saw is still smoldering but appears completely controlled.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.