Length:

Hiking Times: From south to north average times are 2 hours from Tanner Beach to Palisades, and 4 hours from Palisades to LCR Confluence.  From north to south average times are 3.5 hours from LCR Confluence to Palisades, and 1.25 hours from Palisades to Tanner.

Water: The Colorado River can be seen or heard from almost anywhere on this trail.  However, access to The River is limited to the areas between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek, and also near the end of the trail at the LCR confluence.  We do not recommend drinking LCR water, even with a filtering device.

Campsites: The entire Beamer Trail lies within the Palisades use area where there is at-large camping.  There are plentiful campsites between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.  Between Palisdaes Creek and the LCR confluence there are a handful of spots with just enough room to make camp for a couple people, but these marginal sites will be dry camps.  There is no camping allowed within a quarter mile of the LCR confluence, but there is a small beach camp just outside this restricted area.

Reflections and Attractions: The Beamer Trail is an exciting hike deep within the heart of Grand Canyon.  Exploration opportunities and wildlife viewing abound between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.  Depending on the season and River conditions there are also excellent fishing holes here. The LCR confluence is a must-see, just don’t expect to see its famous mineralized blue waters during spring runoff.  Amongst other evidence of early prospector activity, don’t miss the short hike up the LCR to the historical Beamer cabin.

Warnings and musings: Heading south to north the 1st 3 miles of this trail are mostly a walk in the park.  We do not recommend that acrophobics continue from here.  Exposure is always relative to the hiker, but there are sections on this trail that can be intimidating for some, and downright dangerous in windy conditions.  Beyond Palisades Creek, the Beamer trail resembles a junior version of the Tonto Trail, with about 6 miles worth of countless minor drainages to traverse.  Many hikers attempt to make the 12 mile round trip day-hike to the LCR confluence from Palisades but are forced to turn back early from time constraints.  If you plan to try this as a day-hike be ready for a lengthy trek, leave as early as you can, and travel light.

I am accompanied by the Brothers Steiner (hereafter referred to as BS1 and BS2, or as the BSers) and right from the start I can tell I may be spending much of my slower hiking time alone as they speed down the trail.  We begin our trek mid-morning to the frequent serenades of a canyon wren.  BS1 has the canyon wren ringtone and instinctively reaches for his cell phone.

We rest briefly at Stegosaurus Rock and then continue to the Redwall camp for lunch and to cache some water for our return.  BS1 spots a mountain short-horned lizard.  Two hikers on their way out stop to chat and take a break, turns out they are fellow Canyon nuts and four of us graduated from the same high school.

Below the Redwall things start to warm up a little.  It doesn’t matter how many times I descend Tanner, my least favorite section is always the never ending Dox traverse.  It’s just a steep, awkward slope with no shade and no good place to rest, but at least the scenery can’t get any better.

When the trail finally hits Canyon bottom to cross Tanner Wash I just detour down the wash and shortcut my way into camp ahead of the BSers.

The River is quite muddy and we have no luck fishing.  Strong winds make us contemplate moving camp east of the wash to more sheltered sites, but we choose to remain closer to The River.

At some point during the night I realize that inside my rain jacket pocket is part of an old unwrapped forgotten granola bar from some past trip.  I’m half asleep, my food is all packed up safe from varmints, the rain jacket is my pillow, and I don’t want critters poking around my head, so I just set the granola bar aside, by first light it is gone.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to Palisades Creek:

Awake to an amazing display of sunrise cloud colors.  BS2 discovers that mice have raided some of his food he accidentally left out.  Today is a short hike, sort of a recovery day, so we leisurely pack up camp, chat with some hikers just arriving, then head north on the Beamer Trail.

There is a short climb to negotiate some cliffs immediately upon departing Tanner Beach.  Back on the sandy flats south of Comanche Creek, BS1 spots a striped whipsnake.  We take the low route past the island north of Espejo Creek again, so I still have no idea what the high route is like.

I find the Palisades beach camp I used about 18 months ago but there is one small problem – it’s under water.  That’s a shame it was a nice little beach, but there’s still enough room for camp in the tammies a little further from shore.

We spend some time alternately fishing and hiding in the shade.  Even with all this River silt I’m a little surprised the fishing gods are skunking us, especially considering how great this fishing hole was last time I passed through.

A monstrous commercial motor rig comes barreling down The River.  I’m not sure any of the passengers expected to see a full moon at Palisades during the middle of the day.

Last night I barely needed my sleeping bag.  Tonight is cold and windy, I use my rain fly as another blanket layer for wind shelter.

Day 3 – Palisades Creek to beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence:

BS1 asks what I’ve been doing to protect my food from critters overnight.  I tell him I just sleep with my arm over it, kind of like sleeping with my old lady at home, except my food bag doesn’t elbow, kick, and steal the covers.

Continuing north on Beamer, cliffs force the trail up onto the Tonto platform.  More River rats float by below us.  After maybe a mile of hiking from Palisades we encounter the section of trail that has earned Beamer something of a bad reputation, at least with some.  Across from Carbon Canyon there is perhaps a 50 meter stretch where the narrow trail skirts dangerously close to towering cliffs.  I know people who hike this like it’s no big deal without any fear of the exposure, but a mistake here could be fatal.  I concentrate on tunnel visioning the trail but it’s hard to pretend there isn’t a deadly drop immediately to my left.

We all make it safe and sound to the next drainage north where the Beamer Trail splits yet again.  We take the high route this time, assuming it avoids further exposure lower down.  The two routes converge after a short distance where the Beamer Trail becomes a poor man’s Tonto Trail, contouring in and out of countless minor drainages.  We stop for a lunch break across from Temple Butte as more River rats float beneath us.

As we finally approach the Little Colorado River confluence yet even more River rats are swarming the waters.  I have never seen this many people (boaters or otherwise) in The Canyon outside of the corridor.

One of the boats is tied up at our beach camp south of the confluence.  Time to stroll over and see what’s going on.  After wading through the academic jargon, I learn many of these boats are teams of scientists surveying and mapping The River bottom.  They even have a little motorboat that is ferrying people and supplies up and down and back and forth all over The River.

Despite all the commotion we make the best of camp and siesta in the shade.  The fishing gods are still pitching a shutout.  I am starting to believe that the trout eradication measures taken by the Park Service to protect the endangered humpback chub are actually working!  Or at least that’s what I’m willing to blame our bad luck on.

Day 4 – Day hike up the Little Colorado River gorge:

We are all happy to be trekking sans heavy packs for our day-hike up the Little Colorado River.  At the confluence there is a stark contrast between the greenish River and muddy brown LCR.  These waters clearly do not mix well.

In under an hour we’re at the Beamer cabin.  This prospector dwelling was built into the base of an overhanging Tapeats cliff over a hundred years ago.  The cabin is still in great shape with some interesting relics inside, but there’s also pack rat shit everywhere so we don’t linger long.  These ledges were certainly occupied by Anasazi as well, but the artifacts have been mostly picked clean.

We make it another few miles further up the LCR gorge then stop for a snack.  Before continuing I start doing the math in my head.  It’s midday, hot, my foot is hurting some, and if I want to make it all the way to our intended destination and back to camp I will have to hike almost 7 miles on 1 quart of water (I would prefer to only drink LCR water as a last resort).

With some regret I decide to call it a day here while the BSers continue ahead.  They eventually cross the LCR and make it to our goal for the day-hike.  On their return BS2 takes a nasty spill and gets some fairly severe cuts on his leg.

On my way back I try staying closer to the LCR, which leads to some bushwacking here and there, eventually stumbling upon some more scientific equipment I’m assuming is used for humpback chub research.  Back at the confluence I encounter a hiking couple looking for a way to cross the LCR and The River.  They are doing Grandview to Nankoweap, an ambitious hike for most, but even more impressive when I learn they are on about week 7 of their through hike along the Arizona Trail!  What an adventure.

Back in camp the fishing gods continue their shutout, in fact at this point they are working on a no-hitter.

Day 5 – Beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence to Comanche Creek:

For a couple days now BS1 has been teasing us that he will hitchhike on the 1^st boat back to Palisades.  Only minutes after we ascend from our beach camp more River rats float by, they appear to have plenty of room for all of us.  Too late now.

Cloudy skies bless the hike back down Beamer, a welcome relief from some hot temps of the last 2 days.  We opt for the high route again where the trail splits.  Interestingly, there is a small rock barricade discouraging southerly travel on the low route, but there was/is no such barricade at the trail split coming from the opposite way.

The BSers have waited for me back at the exposed section of trail.  They proceed as a terrible wind whips across the exposed trail, forcing the BSers to lean down towards the uphill “safe” side of the trail.  The wind relents briefly, BSers continue around the bend out of sight, then yet another brutal gust of April wind threatens our balance.  Within seconds the BSers are hustling back towards me.  Apparently BS1 asked BS2 how things were looking, the wind came blasting through again, and he said “we need to turn around…now.”

In anticipation of any wind today, I had eyeballed a route to bypass this tricky section back on day 3, so that’s what we decide to do.  The bypass is easy and safe, we simply go up and over the ridge immediately east of the exposed section.  Parts of this bypass route are cairned so we obviously aren’t the first to avoid that sketchy stretch.

We stop at Palisades to retrieve a food cache and have lunch, then continue down to the Comanche Creek area where we find a nice beach camp.  A storm has been following and threatening us all day, so BS2 sets up his tent.  I only have my rainfly and am quite thankful he had extra stakes, the fly would just not hold up in the wind without being anchored.

Figuring it’s our last chance we try our luck fishing again.  Within minutes it is raining steadily.  So I guess it’s official, the fishing gods went from shutout to no-hitter to pitching a perfect game.

The science boaters are all over the place again.  The motorboat cruises up River then slows and beckons us over to shore.  I walk down and he just wants to apologize for any inconvenience they’ve been imposing on our wilderness experience.  I tell him it’s no problem, then he asks if there’s anything we need.  This is my chance.  I tell him if he can scare up a few cold beers that would be great.  He says he’ll be passing by the kitchen and he’ll see what he can do, then motors off again.

The wait seems forever and of course it starts raining harder.  BS2 jumps in his tent to stay dry, I would do the same but for my fear of missing the beer boat.  Standing there drenched I get to thinking.  Why on Earth did I say “cold” beer?  At this point we could care less what temperature the beer is as long as we have some.

I hear a faint motor through the rain.  My heart skips a beat.  The beer boat is returning.  BS1 asks me to check if the boater will take out his backpacking detritus so I grab his trash bag and hustle down to the boat.  This is a historical Yermo moment.  I am handing a River rat a bag of trash and in return he hands me a bag of beers!  I know of no other place where such a transaction would be considered normal.

We enjoy our frothy beverages with a hearty cheers.  Warm PBR never tasted better.  The rain eventually chases us back to our shelters, where I cook up a meal and finish the beer.  The storm remains fairly intense throughout most of the night.

Day 6 – Comanche Creek to upper Tanner Canyon:

At first light I peek my head out the rainfly, the sky is mostly clear.  A relief for sure, I hate packing up in the rain.  Also, last night we discussed hiking all the way out today if it was still stormy, but we seem to have scored one more night in The Canyon.

Apparently I fared the driest.  The BSers squeezed into that little tent, which proved to be something far less than waterproof, and awoke drenched.  Any sleep they did get was in puddles of water.

We give the sun a chance to dry us out some and then hit the trail back to Tanner Beach to pump plenty of water for our dry camp tonight.  It seems some jackass brought their dog down here since we left as there are tracks everywhere.

Before departing we see 2 seagulls (yes, seagulls, I have never seen them in The Canyon before and suspect they are making their way up from the Lake Havasu area?) soaring low over The River.  Heading back up Tanner there has been an explosion of blooming wildflowers since we passed through 5 days ago.

Above the Tapeats boulder field a large group passes by on their way down.  Mostly youngtsers, a few of them seem beat up and perhaps ill prepared (i.e. jeans, behemoth packs, and dog-tired faces).  We skip the Redwall camp, sacrificing those views for more wind shelter in the small bay northeast of Cardenas Butte.

After we get settled and hide out some minor rain sprinkles, a Ranger strolls into camp.  In dozens of trips outside the corridor this is the first time I have ever been checked for permit legitimacy.  We chat for awhile and she tells us a Canadian couple got ticketed at the rim for bringing that dog down.  She also encountered that large group we saw earlier and said they were mostly beat up from the hike and had to change their aggressive itinerary.

I run out of stove fuel exactly after cooking my last dinner, and I would love to take credit for planning on being that lucky.  BS1 decides to try sleeping under a boulder overhang, it only takes a couple pack rat runs across his body to move his sleeping pad up closer to us.

Day 7 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

On our way out it starts snowing above 75-mile saddle.  This is starting to feel like more than coincidence perhaps, but every time I have ascended Tanner it has been snowing.  Not sure if the BSers were taking it easy on me but the trek out only takes about 2 hours and I’m at the rim right behind them.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To see more about BS1 and his wanderings through Arizona click here.

To see the trip report for these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

On an intensely hot day in July of 1959, teenager John Owens and two companions hiked down Tanner Trail.  Due to a lethal combination of heat exhaustion, dehydration, and failing judgment his two hiking partners died; one from falling off a cliff and the other from heat stroke.  At Tanner Beach, Owens built a crude driftwood raft and floated down the Colorado River for the next 4 days, ending up on a sandbar near Neville Rapids.  Owens survived for the next few days on cactus pulp and mesquite beans, meanwhile constructing a massive stone landmark that aerial searchers spotted.  He was rescued barely alive by helicopter.

2.  Woman Takes Wrong Turn in Havasu Canyon

Linda Fortney decided to visit the famous waterfalls of Havasu Canyon on a scorching summer day in 1975.  She took a wrong turn and began hiking in the opposite direction of the falls up Cataract Canyon, more than ten miles from the falls and the village of Supai.  Luckily, she found an ephemeral spring with just barely enough flow to avoid dehydration.  Lost, scared, and unwilling to venture far from the spring, she survived for 18 days until Havasupai Indians tracked and rescued her.

3.  Airmen Bail Out of Plane Over GC

During World War II, three air force crewmen were forced to bail out of a plane in flight over Grand Canyon.  The pilot ordered the evacuation on a false alarm and eventually landed safely, but the crew parachuted into the area of Tuna Creek, a remote side canyon.  At the time virtually no known route existed to reach Tuna Creek within the labyrinth of Grand Canyon.  The injured airmen survived on airdrop rations for a week before searchers finally forged a route in and rescued them.

4.  Two Men Swim the Colorado River Through GC

In 1955, Bill Beer and John Daggett dreamed up the idea of being the first people to swim the Colorado River through Grand Canyon.  Their dream, albeit illegal, became a reality.  Outfitted with swimming fins, wetsuits, and waterproof gear sacks they survived the entire run; taking 26 days to complete such a dramatic and trying ordeal.  Bill Beer chronicled their gutsy journey in his book, “We Swam the Grand Canyon:  the True Story of a Cheap Vacation That Got a Little Out of Hand”.

5.  Failed Shortcut Nearly Fatal

Like many young men of his generation, Charles Myers, a college student from New York, turned his back on the east coast throngs and headed west in 1975, eventually arriving at Grand Canyon.  He chose to backpack the Hermit Trail during the hottest time of the year, and did so decidedly unprepared.  When his supply of food ran out on the 1^st day he tried to hike out using an off-trail shortcut, falling off a ledge in the process resulting in severe injuries.  After burning his clothes and possessions in a futile attempt to secure help, Myers spent 10 painful days stumbling around Hermit Creek before he was found and rescued.

6.  GC Hiking Legend’s Near Escape

Harvey Butchart, the undisputed all-time king of Grand Canyon backcountry hiking, got himself into a fair share of close calls and precarious situations during his decades of experience below the rim.  Perhaps none were more serious than his attempt to rope climb back up a cliff in the Saddle Canyon area.  Butchart, at over 60 years of age, became stuck upside down while still attached to the rope.  After a lengthy struggle he finally freed himself from the rope, only to face more than 30 straight hours of winter hiking in near freezing temperatures to return to his vehicle.

7.  The Powell Expedition

The Powell Expedition of 1869 was the first group of Americans to boat through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River.  They encountered innumerable near-disasters and unbelievable hardships.  While three men who abandoned the expedition tragically died, the remaining explorers survived an unprecedented journey that lasted for over 3 months, under the most strenuous conditions imaginable.

Length:

Water: Except for occasional post-storm potholes, the Colorado River is the only reliable water source along this route.  The River water can be notoriously silty, we recommend using a lightweight, collapsible bucket that will allow the sediment to settle at the bottom.  Just be sure to fill the bucket as soon as you reach camp or a resting spot, as the settling process can take some time.

Campsites: From east to west, the Escalante Route extends through the Tanner, Escalante, and Red Canyon use areas.  All of which are designated for at-large camping.  Certain sites like the sand dunes above Tanner Rapids are restricted so know the regulations before you go.  While marginal dry sites exist along this route away from The River, they should be unnecessary if you plan smartly, as there are a number of great beach camps to take advantage of.  Our favorite camps here include Tanner Beach, Cardenas Creek, Neville Rapids, and Hance Rapids.

Reflections and Attractions: The Escalante Route is a great introduction to route travel in GC for Canyoneers who have gained the appropriate trail experience. Hilltop Ruin is a fine side hike. Camping in flash prone 75-Mile Canyon during a rainstorm is a bit nerve wracking and not recommended. Depending on your perspective and skill level, the Papago Slide and the Papago Wall can be interesting or intimidating. Regardless of your experience, one thing is certain, the views along this route will blow you away.

Warnings and Musings: A young, fit member of the Yermo team tackled this route as part of his first ever GC hike and got physically ass-whooped, temporarily lost, and flirted with hypothermia. In other words, be fully prepared for this hike. Routefinding skills may be required on this trek, especially in the Escalante Creek area.

Hiking Times: Average times descending are 1 hour from the trailhead to 75-Mile saddle, 1.75 hours from 75-Mile saddle to the top of the Redwall, and 2.75 hours from the top of the Redwall to the Colorado River.  Average times ascending are 3.5 hours from the Colorado River to the top of the Redwall, and 2.5 hours from the top of the Redwall to the trailhead.

Water: Unless you’re lucky enough to be hiking right after a storm (and even then, potholes are few and far between), the only available water is at the Colorado River.

Campsites: The Tanner Trail use area is at-large camping. There are several sites starting near the saddle at 75-Mile Canyon and through the Supai. There is a great site atop the Redwall and another at its base. A couple marginal sites exist between here and The River, but seem pointless given the plentiful sites at Tanner Beach.

Reflections and Attractions: Being the first of the day to cut the trail and ascend the Toroweap and Coconino layers in a fresh blizzard is an interesting experience. Great views from 75-Mile saddle and Stegosaurus Rock. The Supai campsite below Escalante Butte has a large overhanging boulder providing perfect shelter during a storm, if you don’t mind packrats. The Redwall camp has incredible views and is a good place to cache water for return trip. Descending the Dox layer is long, awkwardly slanted, and shadeless. Tanner Beach area is wonderful for lounging, exploring, fishing, etc.

Warnings and Musings: Tanner Trail is long and brutal during the hot season. Get some easier GC experience under your belt before trying this one, we’ve personally witnessed 3 first-timers get their butts kicked on this trail.

Mr. Jamrock and I begin our descent on Tanner Trail at about noon, yet another late start caused by various morning setbacks. We spent last night car camping just outside the Park, and sub-freezing early temperatures delayed our packing process. Experience has taught me we need to keep a quick pace to make it to The River before sundown, yet right from the start it is clear Mr. Jamrock’s pack is too heavy and his progress suffers as a result.

At the head of 75-Mile Canyon I wait for Mr. Jamrock to catch up. He looks exhausted and is already drenched with sweat. An hour later I am waiting again in the “blizzard camp” from my Tanner trip three years ago. Mr. Jamrock approaches slowly, lumbering along and breathing heavily, sits down on a boulder and promptly vomits twice. Now my concern shifts from anxiety over the location of tonight’s camp to his well-being. He insists he’s fine despite having a meager breakfast and being nearly out of water. We are both carrying two extra quarts of water to cache atop the Redwall for our return, but now it seems we may need it sooner.

Atop the Redwall descent it is decision time. Daylight is waning and Mr. Jamrock is exhausted, we will camp here. In anticipation of this possibility I have been conserving my water supply so we should be alright, but unfortunately we will have to consume our cache.

There are several fabulous campsites north of the Redwall switchbacks, with some of the most scenic views to be found anywhere in Canyon backcountry.  Like the eye of Sauron, Desert View Watchtower presides over all while perched on the South Rim.  I lounge on the point, soaking up the view, while Mr. Jamrock naps for a spell.  His need to rehydrate those lost fluids has me water nervous so we continue to cautiously ration throughout the night.

Day 2 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to beach north of Espejo Creek:

We skip morning coffee and cocoa to save water and hit the trail early. I give Mr. Jamrock the two quarts I was carrying for the cache that will no longer be available for our return. Coming down the Redwall I spook a large owl (possibly a short-eared owl?) out of a stunted juniper tree. The sudden flight movement startles me.

The sloping traverse below the Redwall is as long as remembered. With no viable options for a sitting rest, this part of the trek always has my toes jamming into the ends of my boots, an uncomfortable hiking situation to be sure. At the hill point before finally dropping into the Tanner drainage I give Mr. Jamrock my last quart of water.

It is a relief to reach The River at Tanner Beach, especially for a dehydrated Mr. Jamrock. We drink our fill of filtered nature’s champagne, make some gatorade, and eat lunch; taking about a two hour rest before our trek resumes up River. As we depart two backpackers trudge into one of the beach camps, looks like a father-daughter team.

Aside from a short climb where the beach is pinched out by cliffs, the hike up Beamer Trail to Espejo Creek is mostly a sandy stroll within earshot of The River. Near the small island north of Espejo Creek the trail forks into an upper and lower route. Around the corner there is a large cairn so we opt to decline the ascent and continue on the low route as it seems passable. The two routes converge back into one across from the north end of the island so the time saved is minimal at best. It appears that the water level would have to be abnormally high to make the low route impassable.

We make camp at a nice sandy beach so I can have some time to fish. The River here is serene and peaceful, but bereft of hungry trout. Fading sunlight casts an illuminating glow on Lava Butte and the stratified colors of Palisades of the Desert.

Day 3 – Beach north of Espejo Creek to Palisades Creek:

I had originally hoped to hike Beamer all the way to the Little Colorado River confluence, but the events of Day 1 have tempered my ambitions out of cautious respect for the demanding nature of the trek. Today will be a short hike to Palisades Creek, more of a layover day really.

There are several nice beach sites to choose from, and we pitch tents right next to The River’s edge, with just enough beach space to account for mildly fluctuating water levels. It is very warm today so we build a shade shelter on the beach, using my tent’s rainfly. Time for some fishing.

First cast…fish on! A nice ten inch rainbow trout, maybe deciding to stay here will be a wise angling choice at least. The fishing here continues to be outstanding, really some of the best I’ve seen in The Canyon. I get a few hits and land several more rainbows, including one at about fourteen inches and two pounds.

With so much fun to be had today, and very little physical work, it would seem that we are undeserving of a cocktail hour. Perhaps so, but that doesn’t stop us anyway. What a gorgeous night, a shimmering half-moon light stretches across the surface of The River.

Day 4 – Palisades Creek to Tanner Beach:

Great beginning to another easy day as I reel in another respectable rainbow on my first cast of the morning. A few more trout are to follow, one of which hit my spinner and fought so hard I initially thought it was a bad snag. I am reluctant to leave but we need to get back to Tanner Beach.

Retracing our steps along Beamer I scare up a couple waterfowl (western grebe or merganser?) near the low route from Day 2. Back at Tanner we have a visitor in camp, a small lizard that has somehow lost its tail. It scurries around for a meal sneaking up on flies but always scares them off at the critical moment.

We travel down River along the Escalante Route to try out the fishing there. Rounding some massive sand dunes a huge plume of smoke is visible above the South Rim. On our drive in we passed some preparations for a prescribed forest burn, and hopefully that’s what we’re looking at. From down here it looks like a massive bomb has exploded on the rim, and we wonder if the planned burn didn’t perhaps get a little out of control.

The current here is too swift for successful angling so I return up River. There is an excellent eddy at the River bend above Tanner Rapids where my efforts are rewarded with a few more rainbows.

Night comes on as we filter gallons of water for our dry camp tomorrow. The first mice encounters of this trip occur as a pair boldly darts in and out of our camp throughout the evening.

Day 5 – Tanner Beach to Tanner Canyon atop Redwall:

Mr. Jamrock has learned his Canyon water lesson and begins today’s trek shouldering a pack that contains about twenty-five pounds of water. I also succumb to the urge to overcompensate my water needs and leave with about nine quarts, way more than I typically carry even in anticipation of a dry camp.

The ascent to the base of the Redwall and then up the switchbacks takes its customary time. All this extra water weight has really taken a physical toll on my body and I’m exhausted when we reach the spur trail to our camp from Day 1. We decide to camp there again so I lay out my sleeping pad for a short nap in the sun.

Wake up feeling completely refreshed, and just in time for a real Canyon treat. While our planned water cache to start the trip didn’t work out, we still had something valuable to stash behind which Mr. Jamrock has retrieved – four cold cans of beer. We sit on the point, admiring the view and sipping our tasty, frothy beverages.

It’s the coldest night of the trip and I use every layer of clothing I have packed. Hot drinks are a warm welcome for our last night in The Canyon.

Day 6 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to Tanner Trailhead:

Around 3 am this morning the wind really picks up and starts battering our tents relentlessly. My tent panels are making such a racket while whipping against my head and body that I have to get up twice to re-secure the tent. Even after sunrise the intense winds will not abate, if not for a quick move by Mr. Jamrock my sleeping pad nearly blows off the point into a thousand foot freefall.

Extreme gusts are prevalent throughout or trek to the rim but we persevere. We reach the parking area at Lipan Point with perfect timing. Just as we’re saluting a great trip with a couple cold beers it starts snowing. Getting back on the road, the prescribed burn we saw is still smoldering but appears completely controlled.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.

A real pain in the back.

This is my first return to Tanner Trail, the beginning of my original backpack in The Canyon, over five years ago. This time I’m traveling with D.K. and Buster. If I’m honest, I reluctantly start this hike with concerns about a pinched nerve in my lower back.

We quickly switch-back our way below the saddle at 75-Mile Canyon to a good water cache spot below Escalante Butte where we stop for lunch. During the Redwall descent, Buster is slowed by shaky knees. This is a common condition in The Canyon, where every downward step is jittery from bracing against the weight of a pack, and it can be especially difficult for rookies such as Buster. He stumbles a few times, cutting his hand in the process, and starts slowing way down as The Canyon pounds yet another first-timer.

For the duration of the hike down D.K. is well in the lead while I’m a few steps behind Buster, trying to motivate a faster pace and fewer breaks. By the time we hit the bed of Tanner we’ve been hiking for six hours, and the prolonged weight on my back has seriously inflamed my pinched nerve. The only way I’m semi-painless is hunched over a bit and I probably look like Quasimodo right now. My hope is that an extended cocktail hour will help ease the pain.

Day 2 – Layover at Tanner Beach:

Back out on Beamer.

Slept shitty and wake up with ridiculous back pain. Any chance now at making it to the Little Colorado River confluence is out of the question. Buster is beat up from yesterday as well, so it’s the smart group choice to change our plan. That sucks but we’re all still happy to be down here.

D.K. and Buster are off to fish up River while I struggle to wake up in any sort of painless fashion. They stop a quarter mile away where cliff walls prevent further passage at River level. Shooting pains in my back, like repeated knife stabbings, allow me the ability to cover that distance in the lightning quick time of thirty minutes, only stopping to keel over in pain every ten steps or so. We fish the morning with no luck and return to base camp for lunch.

Buster and D.K. go down River in the afternoon while I nap. A solitary goose honking on its flight overhead wakes me feeling a little better, then I meet up with them returning from a half mile away; along the way notice some pottery shards. After returning to camp the weather turns quite cold after sundown. Heavy gusts mixed with some scattered showers prevail through the night.

Day 3 – Dayhike from Tanner Beach to Comanche Creek:

Canyon wildlife abounds on an unsuccessful Comanche raid.

Our limited view of the South Rim reveals fresh snow this morning. Buster made a Canyon rookie mistake last night. His backpack was hanging in a tree, but some of the food was in an open compartment. It appears mice have enjoyed much of his favorite candy bar.

Our goal today is to day-hike the Beamer Trail in search of more promising fishing grounds. We trek up River to the beach at Comanche Creek. Even that short section of the trail has a little exposure worth mentioning, one slip or slide at the wrong place could send you flailing down into the River a couple hundred feet below. I try not to look down too much and fail.

Today is a good day for Canyon wildlife sightings. D.K. spooks a single mule deer out of a mesquite thicket. There is a pair of mallards lounging in an eddy, and watching us nervously. A California condor soars overhead. Despite our efforts, the only angling action we get is one rainbow trout chasing my spinner.

Day 4 – Tanner Beach to upper Tanner Canyon:

Backpacking in a winter Canyonland.

Time to climb at least halfway out, thankfully my back is feeling better. Win the psychological battle. Don’t think about the entire length, just put one foot in front of the other; look to the next switchback instead of the heights above.

We make it to below the Redwall ascent with intermittent snow flurries in our now regular trekking order: D.K. staying five to ten minutes ahead of us while I am constantly pushing at Buster’s heels. Have a short lunch and then crank out the climb in good time.

While approaching our intended camp and the water cache between Escalante and Cardenas Buttes, the snow continues falling with greater density. Our site is a flat clearing next to a very large boulder, underneath which is a cave-like depression just big enough for two small tents, or three dudes and their gear.

While Buster and D.K. are deciding how to arrange their tents in there I quickly set mine further away under the welcome shelter of a large juniper tree. They end up setting tents next to mine, somewhat exposed to the snow but out from underneath the slight danger of a crumbling boulder; beneath which was the added nuisance of pack rat shit everywhere.

D.K. and Buster remain in their tents trying to dry clothing and stay warm while I huddle underneath the boulder. The snowstorm doesn’t appear to be letting up anytime soon, and I’m getting cold. Amongst the pack rat detritus there is some dry timber and it’s tempting to build a small fire. The presence of charcoal indicates someone recently acted on that temptation.

After dinner Buster bolts for the warmth of his tent (not to emerge for fourteen consecutive hours). D.K. generously assists me in consuming the rest of our whiskey supply. I luck out on a dumb-ass move, my tent door has been open for nearly three hours, but thankfully the juniper kept most of the snow out.

Day 5 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

“Where’s the ski lift?”

Wake up and it’s still snowing. Buster and D.K. get stirring early; coffee does the meanest things to people. I’m fortunate my dozen odd vices don’t include the coffee bean. I convince D.K. to bring me hot water for oatmeal in bed, and don’t leave my tent until I’m packed and ready to go.

There is some significant snow accumulation that slows our ascent. We are the first people to cut the trail this morning and some sections have snowdrifts over a foot high. Above the 75-Mile saddle there are a few places where the snow is so evenly distributed we are forced to take extra time making sure of the right track. Reaching Lipan Point feels like completing an epic winter trek. On the drive home a javelina crosses Desert View Drive right in front of us.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

“A Beginners Introduction to The Canyon” or “A New Way to Enjoy Kicking Your Own Ass.”

My first Canyon backpacking trip. Ricky from Chicago, an NAU friend, invites me on this spring break trip after we had done some backpacking in the Sedona area previously. I owe him a debt of gratitude for lighting the original fire under my Canyon loving ass. His friends Dan and Jeff come along, and I invite King Tut also to round out our crew.

We hit Tanner Trail late morning. Keeping my telescopic rod fastened outside of the pack is a mistake. The limited remainder of fishing line gets hopelessly tangled about the reel, officially ending any hopes for a supplemental trout meal on this trek.

Like any Canyon rookie I underestimate the physical challenge and have no experience to understand the psychological battle of Canyon hiking. So naturally the hike kicks my butt. King Tut and I show up last at Tanner Beach, after sunset, completely worn out.

Ricky has decided that we shall cook group meals for the trip, so King Tut and I have tonight’s shift. I cook red beans, rice, and sausage for everyone. Unfortunately Ricky neglected to mention Jeff’s a vegan, so there’s extra food for the rest of us.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to 75-Mile Canyon:

Escalante Route – A Spanish phrase roughly translating to, “a damn long hike, fraught with near mishap, and flash flood fears.”

Wake up early and sore, we have a long day ahead of us along the Escalante Route. We put some morning miles behind us and then take a short break across The River from Furnace Flats to admire the view. The trek resumes as intermittent rain falls and we contour above the drainage west of Cardenas Creek. In the traverse around Escalante Creek our route choice is probably a mistake and there are some sketchy talus slopes to negotiate. An idea for lunch break to regroup is seconded by all.

Apparently there is a steep shortcut down to Neville Rapids, but we end up on the high route at the crossing of 75-Mile Canyon, just south of The River. At this point we’re all tired and have covered about ten miles. Our correct path lies down this slot canyon, and is cairned. But the high route also continues west around the point. There is a discussion about which way to go.

Ricky is the trip leader and only hiker in our group with Canyon experience. He decides we should stay on the upper route instead of going down 75-Mile Canyon. Dan and Jeff are the strongest hikers in our group, and eager to get into camp so they move on while Ricky and I wait for King Tut. When we finally round the point towards Papago Creek it is getting dark. Dan and Jeff are way ahead of us and gaining significant elevation. This can’t be right.

There is a photocopied description of the route Ricky got somewhere, so I stop him to take a look. Given the length of our hiking day, and based on the blurry map and route description, I believe we have just passed 75-Mile Canyon and our access to The River. I convince Ricky I’m right and we yell out for Dan and Jeff to come back. Luckily they are still barely within earshot and return.

Back at the crossing of 75-Mile Canyon it is now dark and we have another decision to make. There is a down-climb to a narrow depression with just enough room for two tents. We should probably make sure this side canyon deposits us at The River, but we do have plenty of water still to make camp. It’s put to a vote and the tired guys win out, we’re staying here. Dan and Jeff are probably right about continuing, but the prospect of navigating this slot canyon with only a couple flashlights is not inviting.

During the night it starts raining hard. Ricky has been sleeping outside, and suddenly barges into the tent, forcing King Tut and I to the sides where the water is actually puddling. I am cold and wet all night. Choosing this camp was a stupid decision; if this slot canyon flashes we will be shit out of luck.

Day 3 – 75 Mile Canyon to Horseshoe Mesa:

Vishnu preserved & a near recipe for hypothermia.

Ricky has a talent for pointing out the blatantly obvious. Everything is damp or wet, and we’re on limited sleep, trudging around packing up when he says to me, “Hey, your tent isn’t waterproof.” Brilliant deduction considering our drenched state.

There is one more down-climb where we lower packs before reaching The River at Neville Rapids. Thankfully my gut instinct proved out, we are on the correct route. Our first view of the South Rim today reveals a blanket of fresh snow. It’s still cloudy, but not rainy, so we set out some things to dry and pump water.

At Papago Creek we encounter a group of River rats taking a day hike. They tell us we are doing The Canyon the hard way. Easy for them to say. On the west side of Papago Creek there are a series of ledges that require some focus climbing. At Hance Rapids we link up with the Tonto Trail, and continue west; taking the upper bypass to avoid the ledge into Mineral Canyon. We take a long break next to Hance Creek.

Probably a little too long. As we fill up water for the final time at Page Spring, the last rays of sunlight frame Vishnu Temple in a perfect silhouette.

We will not make it atop Horseshoe Mesa before darkness. Ricky takes a wrong turn and we are scrambling on all fours up a steep talus slope for a hundred feet. It’s slippery as hell and I burn a lot of energy fighting gravity until we link back up with the trail. We tighten up our formation, with flashlights at the front and rear, and struggle up the remaining Redwall ascent until we make camp on top of Horseshoe Mesa.

Now I learn an important rookie Canyon lesson. All of my warm clothing is sweat drenched and I have no beanie. The temperature is below freezing and I cannot stop shivering. I am so cold that I wrap my head in Ricky’s spare long johns, skip dinner completely, and jump in the sleeping bag to warm up until I finally tremble asleep.

Day 4 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

May the snow angels lift thee up.

I wake up surprisingly refreshed after that minor flirtation with hypothermia last night. Just don’t forget to bring a beanie on winter trips. There is a lot of snow on the Grandview Trail as we ascend, all of it deposited from the storms over the last few days.

King Tut is the last to reach Grandview Point and promptly drops his pack, collapses to the ground on his back, and muscles out some exhausted snow angels.