I am accompanied by the Brothers Steiner (hereafter referred to as BS1 and BS2, or as the BSers) and right from the start I can tell I may be spending much of my slower hiking time alone as they speed down the trail.  We begin our trek mid-morning to the frequent serenades of a canyon wren.  BS1 has the canyon wren ringtone and instinctively reaches for his cell phone.

We rest briefly at Stegosaurus Rock and then continue to the Redwall camp for lunch and to cache some water for our return.  BS1 spots a mountain short-horned lizard.  Two hikers on their way out stop to chat and take a break, turns out they are fellow Canyon nuts and four of us graduated from the same high school.

Below the Redwall things start to warm up a little.  It doesn’t matter how many times I descend Tanner, my least favorite section is always the never ending Dox traverse.  It’s just a steep, awkward slope with no shade and no good place to rest, but at least the scenery can’t get any better.

When the trail finally hits Canyon bottom to cross Tanner Wash I just detour down the wash and shortcut my way into camp ahead of the BSers.

The River is quite muddy and we have no luck fishing.  Strong winds make us contemplate moving camp east of the wash to more sheltered sites, but we choose to remain closer to The River.

At some point during the night I realize that inside my rain jacket pocket is part of an old unwrapped forgotten granola bar from some past trip.  I’m half asleep, my food is all packed up safe from varmints, the rain jacket is my pillow, and I don’t want critters poking around my head, so I just set the granola bar aside, by first light it is gone.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to Palisades Creek:

Awake to an amazing display of sunrise cloud colors.  BS2 discovers that mice have raided some of his food he accidentally left out.  Today is a short hike, sort of a recovery day, so we leisurely pack up camp, chat with some hikers just arriving, then head north on the Beamer Trail.

There is a short climb to negotiate some cliffs immediately upon departing Tanner Beach.  Back on the sandy flats south of Comanche Creek, BS1 spots a striped whipsnake.  We take the low route past the island north of Espejo Creek again, so I still have no idea what the high route is like.

I find the Palisades beach camp I used about 18 months ago but there is one small problem – it’s under water.  That’s a shame it was a nice little beach, but there’s still enough room for camp in the tammies a little further from shore.

We spend some time alternately fishing and hiding in the shade.  Even with all this River silt I’m a little surprised the fishing gods are skunking us, especially considering how great this fishing hole was last time I passed through.

A monstrous commercial motor rig comes barreling down The River.  I’m not sure any of the passengers expected to see a full moon at Palisades during the middle of the day.

Last night I barely needed my sleeping bag.  Tonight is cold and windy, I use my rain fly as another blanket layer for wind shelter.

Day 3 – Palisades Creek to beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence:

BS1 asks what I’ve been doing to protect my food from critters overnight.  I tell him I just sleep with my arm over it, kind of like sleeping with my old lady at home, except my food bag doesn’t elbow, kick, and steal the covers.

Continuing north on Beamer, cliffs force the trail up onto the Tonto platform.  More River rats float by below us.  After maybe a mile of hiking from Palisades we encounter the section of trail that has earned Beamer something of a bad reputation, at least with some.  Across from Carbon Canyon there is perhaps a 50 meter stretch where the narrow trail skirts dangerously close to towering cliffs.  I know people who hike this like it’s no big deal without any fear of the exposure, but a mistake here could be fatal.  I concentrate on tunnel visioning the trail but it’s hard to pretend there isn’t a deadly drop immediately to my left.

We all make it safe and sound to the next drainage north where the Beamer Trail splits yet again.  We take the high route this time, assuming it avoids further exposure lower down.  The two routes converge after a short distance where the Beamer Trail becomes a poor man’s Tonto Trail, contouring in and out of countless minor drainages.  We stop for a lunch break across from Temple Butte as more River rats float beneath us.

As we finally approach the Little Colorado River confluence yet even more River rats are swarming the waters.  I have never seen this many people (boaters or otherwise) in The Canyon outside of the corridor.

One of the boats is tied up at our beach camp south of the confluence.  Time to stroll over and see what’s going on.  After wading through the academic jargon, I learn many of these boats are teams of scientists surveying and mapping The River bottom.  They even have a little motorboat that is ferrying people and supplies up and down and back and forth all over The River.

Despite all the commotion we make the best of camp and siesta in the shade.  The fishing gods are still pitching a shutout.  I am starting to believe that the trout eradication measures taken by the Park Service to protect the endangered humpback chub are actually working!  Or at least that’s what I’m willing to blame our bad luck on.

Day 4 – Day hike up the Little Colorado River gorge:

We are all happy to be trekking sans heavy packs for our day-hike up the Little Colorado River.  At the confluence there is a stark contrast between the greenish River and muddy brown LCR.  These waters clearly do not mix well.

In under an hour we’re at the Beamer cabin.  This prospector dwelling was built into the base of an overhanging Tapeats cliff over a hundred years ago.  The cabin is still in great shape with some interesting relics inside, but there’s also pack rat shit everywhere so we don’t linger long.  These ledges were certainly occupied by Anasazi as well, but the artifacts have been mostly picked clean.

We make it another few miles further up the LCR gorge then stop for a snack.  Before continuing I start doing the math in my head.  It’s midday, hot, my foot is hurting some, and if I want to make it all the way to our intended destination and back to camp I will have to hike almost 7 miles on 1 quart of water (I would prefer to only drink LCR water as a last resort).

With some regret I decide to call it a day here while the BSers continue ahead.  They eventually cross the LCR and make it to our goal for the day-hike.  On their return BS2 takes a nasty spill and gets some fairly severe cuts on his leg.

On my way back I try staying closer to the LCR, which leads to some bushwacking here and there, eventually stumbling upon some more scientific equipment I’m assuming is used for humpback chub research.  Back at the confluence I encounter a hiking couple looking for a way to cross the LCR and The River.  They are doing Grandview to Nankoweap, an ambitious hike for most, but even more impressive when I learn they are on about week 7 of their through hike along the Arizona Trail!  What an adventure.

Back in camp the fishing gods continue their shutout, in fact at this point they are working on a no-hitter.

Day 5 – Beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence to Comanche Creek:

For a couple days now BS1 has been teasing us that he will hitchhike on the 1^st boat back to Palisades.  Only minutes after we ascend from our beach camp more River rats float by, they appear to have plenty of room for all of us.  Too late now.

Cloudy skies bless the hike back down Beamer, a welcome relief from some hot temps of the last 2 days.  We opt for the high route again where the trail splits.  Interestingly, there is a small rock barricade discouraging southerly travel on the low route, but there was/is no such barricade at the trail split coming from the opposite way.

The BSers have waited for me back at the exposed section of trail.  They proceed as a terrible wind whips across the exposed trail, forcing the BSers to lean down towards the uphill “safe” side of the trail.  The wind relents briefly, BSers continue around the bend out of sight, then yet another brutal gust of April wind threatens our balance.  Within seconds the BSers are hustling back towards me.  Apparently BS1 asked BS2 how things were looking, the wind came blasting through again, and he said “we need to turn around…now.”

In anticipation of any wind today, I had eyeballed a route to bypass this tricky section back on day 3, so that’s what we decide to do.  The bypass is easy and safe, we simply go up and over the ridge immediately east of the exposed section.  Parts of this bypass route are cairned so we obviously aren’t the first to avoid that sketchy stretch.

We stop at Palisades to retrieve a food cache and have lunch, then continue down to the Comanche Creek area where we find a nice beach camp.  A storm has been following and threatening us all day, so BS2 sets up his tent.  I only have my rainfly and am quite thankful he had extra stakes, the fly would just not hold up in the wind without being anchored.

Figuring it’s our last chance we try our luck fishing again.  Within minutes it is raining steadily.  So I guess it’s official, the fishing gods went from shutout to no-hitter to pitching a perfect game.

The science boaters are all over the place again.  The motorboat cruises up River then slows and beckons us over to shore.  I walk down and he just wants to apologize for any inconvenience they’ve been imposing on our wilderness experience.  I tell him it’s no problem, then he asks if there’s anything we need.  This is my chance.  I tell him if he can scare up a few cold beers that would be great.  He says he’ll be passing by the kitchen and he’ll see what he can do, then motors off again.

The wait seems forever and of course it starts raining harder.  BS2 jumps in his tent to stay dry, I would do the same but for my fear of missing the beer boat.  Standing there drenched I get to thinking.  Why on Earth did I say “cold” beer?  At this point we could care less what temperature the beer is as long as we have some.

I hear a faint motor through the rain.  My heart skips a beat.  The beer boat is returning.  BS1 asks me to check if the boater will take out his backpacking detritus so I grab his trash bag and hustle down to the boat.  This is a historical Yermo moment.  I am handing a River rat a bag of trash and in return he hands me a bag of beers!  I know of no other place where such a transaction would be considered normal.

We enjoy our frothy beverages with a hearty cheers.  Warm PBR never tasted better.  The rain eventually chases us back to our shelters, where I cook up a meal and finish the beer.  The storm remains fairly intense throughout most of the night.

Day 6 – Comanche Creek to upper Tanner Canyon:

At first light I peek my head out the rainfly, the sky is mostly clear.  A relief for sure, I hate packing up in the rain.  Also, last night we discussed hiking all the way out today if it was still stormy, but we seem to have scored one more night in The Canyon.

Apparently I fared the driest.  The BSers squeezed into that little tent, which proved to be something far less than waterproof, and awoke drenched.  Any sleep they did get was in puddles of water.

We give the sun a chance to dry us out some and then hit the trail back to Tanner Beach to pump plenty of water for our dry camp tonight.  It seems some jackass brought their dog down here since we left as there are tracks everywhere.

Before departing we see 2 seagulls (yes, seagulls, I have never seen them in The Canyon before and suspect they are making their way up from the Lake Havasu area?) soaring low over The River.  Heading back up Tanner there has been an explosion of blooming wildflowers since we passed through 5 days ago.

Above the Tapeats boulder field a large group passes by on their way down.  Mostly youngtsers, a few of them seem beat up and perhaps ill prepared (i.e. jeans, behemoth packs, and dog-tired faces).  We skip the Redwall camp, sacrificing those views for more wind shelter in the small bay northeast of Cardenas Butte.

After we get settled and hide out some minor rain sprinkles, a Ranger strolls into camp.  In dozens of trips outside the corridor this is the first time I have ever been checked for permit legitimacy.  We chat for awhile and she tells us a Canadian couple got ticketed at the rim for bringing that dog down.  She also encountered that large group we saw earlier and said they were mostly beat up from the hike and had to change their aggressive itinerary.

I run out of stove fuel exactly after cooking my last dinner, and I would love to take credit for planning on being that lucky.  BS1 decides to try sleeping under a boulder overhang, it only takes a couple pack rat runs across his body to move his sleeping pad up closer to us.

Day 7 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

On our way out it starts snowing above 75-mile saddle.  This is starting to feel like more than coincidence perhaps, but every time I have ascended Tanner it has been snowing.  Not sure if the BSers were taking it easy on me but the trek out only takes about 2 hours and I’m at the rim right behind them.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To see more about BS1 and his wanderings through Arizona click here.

To see the trip report for these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

Mr. Jamrock, Pablito and I spent last night on Swamp Point.  Today our destination is Muav Saddle, a very simple hike by Canyon standards.  Because of that I had planned to spend most of our time day-hiking on Powell Plateau with perhaps a side trip to either Muav Spring or Powell Spring for water.  However, Pablito has brought way too much gear and food, and we are forced to delay our departure by several hours as he packs, unpacks, and packs again.

Finally Pablito is ready and we trek down to Teddy’s Cabin at the saddle for lunch.  I haven’t seen the cabin in four years and it’s still in great shape, I even found my old journal entry in the logbook.

Given our late start I grudgingly rule out our Powell Plateau hike.  Instead we will head down the North Bass Trail to find Muav Spring for some water.

Along the trail there are some interesting moss or lichen formations hanging down beneath an overhang.  After a quarter mile we find the spring east of the trail and signs of early white man development.  There is just enough flow to pump a few quarts here for meals and cocktails tonight.

Back at the saddle, Mr. Jamrock and Pablito decide to sleep on the old cots inside the cabin.  I am still fearful of Pablito’s banshee snore so I set my tent up outside.

Day 2 – Muav Saddle to Saddle Canyon:

Even through the walls of Teddy’s Cabin I could hear Pablito’s snoring last night but still got some decent sleep.  If I had known how slow hiking was going to be today I would have rallied us for a much earlier start than 10 am.

We are traveling off-trail down Saddle Canyon to the junction with Crazy Jug Canyon.  The route down Saddle is straightforward, and while traveling in the dry creek bed is the quickest option it is by no means easy.  It is a complete hackfest and the true definition of a bushwack, complete with plenty of thorny brush.  I am wearing shorts and a shirt, so my arms and legs get cut up pretty bad.

Our progress is slow and I have to stop and wait for my companions many times before we reach the first of a few dry pouroffs in the Supai.  The first is easily bypassed to the left (west).  The second has a bypass to the right (east) which Mr. Jamrock uses, but Pablito and I get out the rope for a short assisted downclimb, after we lower our packs.

The third pouroff is significant and has a longer bypass to the west along a somewhat exposed ledge.  Our group is tired and it’s getting late so I decide to end our day here.  There is a large pool of water we can pump from, just enough room for three tents, and the forecast is clear so I’m not worried about a flash flood through here.

A couple mice join us for dinner, making occasional bold incursions into our kitchen.  Our camp is situated in sort of a small alcove, and Pablito’s banshee snore literally echoes off the canyon walls, making for a fitful sleep at best.

Day 3 – Saddle Canyon:

This morning Mr. Jamrock and I decide to enforce the snoring banishment of Pablito for the rest of the trip.  We’re up early today and on the trail an hour after sunrise.

About halfway through the ledge bypass there is a talus slope that must be ascended to gain the ridge west of Saddle Canyon.  The footing is loose due to the rains from last week.  I ascend first and scout the route ahead.  Soon Pablito is up top with me, but Mr. Jamrock is yelling for help.

I scamper back down the slope and find him lying on his belly, breathing heavy, and in a bit of a panic.  Large chunks of dirt and rocks have given way beneath his feet and he’s on the verge of sliding down the slope.  This situation is not good, but if he does slide, the odds of him falling to the bottom are extremely low as there is plenty of brush and large boulders to stop his progress.

I try to calm him down and then help to push him up the slope to where Pablito is waiting for us.  Atop the ridge we take a break and I have a decision to make.  I wanted to make it at least as far as Crazy Jug Canyon but I’m thinking it would be irresponsible to keep pushing Mr. Jamrock, who is clearly shaken up from his encounter with the talus slope.

We decide to cut the trip short a day and turn back.  We still have another night on our permit in this use area so we retreat back to a campsite I noticed with water just above the first Supai pouroff.

Day 4 – Saddle Canyon to North Bass Trailhead:

Time to return through the hackfest so I start the hike with pants instead of shorts this time, which promptly get ripped to shreds – back to shorts and more cuts on my legs.

About a mile below Muav Saddle I pass an unmistakable rattling noise to my left.  I stop to find the source and notice that I have interrupted lunchtime.  A small rattlesnake is in the process of swallowing what appears to be a mouse, and the rodent’s tail is still sticking out of the serpent’s mouth.  The snake continues rattling its warning as Pablito and Mr. Jamrock approach, then we move on.

We take a short break at Teddy’s Cabin and retrieve a water cache we left here on Day 1; then proceed with the hike out to the Rim where we see 6 wild turkeys crossing the Swamp Point road.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.

Length:

Water: If you’re lucky enough to be hiking right after a storm, pothole water can be found on the Esplanade. Other than that you can find perennial water at Thunder River, Tapeats Creek, the Colorado River, Deer Creek, and Deer Creek Spring. We recommend placing a water cache somewhere on the Esplanade for your return hike.  Do not underestimate your water needs along this trail.

Campsites: The Esplanade has at-large camping and you will find many sites there, perhaps the best of which are above the Redwall descent. Surprise Valley also has at-large camping and there are dry, but scenic sites at the east end overlooking the Tapeats gorge and the magnificence of Thunder River. All other camping is in designated sites only which includes Upper Tapeats, Lower Tapeats, and Deer Creek.

Reflections and Attractions: Simply put, there is way too much fun to be had in this area. Enjoy the moonscape surroundings of the Esplanade. Thunder River is Eden on Earth. Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek provide welcomed and picturesque relief from the heat. Don’t miss the exciting hike through Deer Creek Narrows to Deer Creek Falls. Deer Creek Spring is another excellent destination. Exploration possibilities are seemingly endless, and keep your eyes peeled for Anasazi ruins, pictographs, and wildlife.

Warnings and Musings: This area has proven to be lethal in the summer heat, so be prepared, hike smart, seek shade during the intense heat of midday, and stay hydrated. While it may be tempting to do otherwise, respect this area by camping in the designated sites only. The eastern route down Tapeats Creek is much easier than the western route, only be careful crossing the creek which can have dangerous late spring flows. Watch your step through Deer Creek Narrows, a slip here could be fatal. Mice at the Deer Creek camp are plentiful and bold, a contributing factor to the presence of rattlesnakes in the area.

The answer, as it turns out, depends on the expected weather conditions of a hike and personal preference. With the exception of monsoon season and the occasional storm, the use of a tent is largely unnecessary during the summer. You certainly won’t need it to keep warm at night. To save weight in the warm season many hikers carry just a ground cloth and perhaps a tarp if a rainstorm is possible. But if you have issues with creepy-crawlies like spiders, scorpions, and snakes (especially the nocturnal variety), then packing a lightweight tent may be a good idea.

It is far more common to see backpackers with tents during the winter in Grand Canyon. Heavier snowstorms and blizzards can extend all the way down to the Colorado River. Under these conditions a lightweight tent with a waterproof fly can keep a hiker warm and dry, making potentially miserable weather at least more comfortable. Of course, some hardcore hikers still don’t carry a tent in winter, but they prepare by packing warm synthetic sleeping bags and at least some kind of waterproof sheet in the event of heavy precipitation.