Length:

Hiking Times: From south to north average times are 2 hours from Tanner Beach to Palisades, and 4 hours from Palisades to LCR Confluence.  From north to south average times are 3.5 hours from LCR Confluence to Palisades, and 1.25 hours from Palisades to Tanner.

Water: The Colorado River can be seen or heard from almost anywhere on this trail.  However, access to The River is limited to the areas between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek, and also near the end of the trail at the LCR confluence.  We do not recommend drinking LCR water, even with a filtering device.

Campsites: The entire Beamer Trail lies within the Palisades use area where there is at-large camping.  There are plentiful campsites between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.  Between Palisdaes Creek and the LCR confluence there are a handful of spots with just enough room to make camp for a couple people, but these marginal sites will be dry camps.  There is no camping allowed within a quarter mile of the LCR confluence, but there is a small beach camp just outside this restricted area.

Reflections and Attractions: The Beamer Trail is an exciting hike deep within the heart of Grand Canyon.  Exploration opportunities and wildlife viewing abound between Tanner Beach and Palisades Creek.  Depending on the season and River conditions there are also excellent fishing holes here. The LCR confluence is a must-see, just don’t expect to see its famous mineralized blue waters during spring runoff.  Amongst other evidence of early prospector activity, don’t miss the short hike up the LCR to the historical Beamer cabin.

Warnings and musings: Heading south to north the 1st 3 miles of this trail are mostly a walk in the park.  We do not recommend that acrophobics continue from here.  Exposure is always relative to the hiker, but there are sections on this trail that can be intimidating for some, and downright dangerous in windy conditions.  Beyond Palisades Creek, the Beamer trail resembles a junior version of the Tonto Trail, with about 6 miles worth of countless minor drainages to traverse.  Many hikers attempt to make the 12 mile round trip day-hike to the LCR confluence from Palisades but are forced to turn back early from time constraints.  If you plan to try this as a day-hike be ready for a lengthy trek, leave as early as you can, and travel light.

I am accompanied by the Brothers Steiner (hereafter referred to as BS1 and BS2, or as the BSers) and right from the start I can tell I may be spending much of my slower hiking time alone as they speed down the trail.  We begin our trek mid-morning to the frequent serenades of a canyon wren.  BS1 has the canyon wren ringtone and instinctively reaches for his cell phone.

We rest briefly at Stegosaurus Rock and then continue to the Redwall camp for lunch and to cache some water for our return.  BS1 spots a mountain short-horned lizard.  Two hikers on their way out stop to chat and take a break, turns out they are fellow Canyon nuts and four of us graduated from the same high school.

Below the Redwall things start to warm up a little.  It doesn’t matter how many times I descend Tanner, my least favorite section is always the never ending Dox traverse.  It’s just a steep, awkward slope with no shade and no good place to rest, but at least the scenery can’t get any better.

When the trail finally hits Canyon bottom to cross Tanner Wash I just detour down the wash and shortcut my way into camp ahead of the BSers.

The River is quite muddy and we have no luck fishing.  Strong winds make us contemplate moving camp east of the wash to more sheltered sites, but we choose to remain closer to The River.

At some point during the night I realize that inside my rain jacket pocket is part of an old unwrapped forgotten granola bar from some past trip.  I’m half asleep, my food is all packed up safe from varmints, the rain jacket is my pillow, and I don’t want critters poking around my head, so I just set the granola bar aside, by first light it is gone.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to Palisades Creek:

Awake to an amazing display of sunrise cloud colors.  BS2 discovers that mice have raided some of his food he accidentally left out.  Today is a short hike, sort of a recovery day, so we leisurely pack up camp, chat with some hikers just arriving, then head north on the Beamer Trail.

There is a short climb to negotiate some cliffs immediately upon departing Tanner Beach.  Back on the sandy flats south of Comanche Creek, BS1 spots a striped whipsnake.  We take the low route past the island north of Espejo Creek again, so I still have no idea what the high route is like.

I find the Palisades beach camp I used about 18 months ago but there is one small problem – it’s under water.  That’s a shame it was a nice little beach, but there’s still enough room for camp in the tammies a little further from shore.

We spend some time alternately fishing and hiding in the shade.  Even with all this River silt I’m a little surprised the fishing gods are skunking us, especially considering how great this fishing hole was last time I passed through.

A monstrous commercial motor rig comes barreling down The River.  I’m not sure any of the passengers expected to see a full moon at Palisades during the middle of the day.

Last night I barely needed my sleeping bag.  Tonight is cold and windy, I use my rain fly as another blanket layer for wind shelter.

Day 3 – Palisades Creek to beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence:

BS1 asks what I’ve been doing to protect my food from critters overnight.  I tell him I just sleep with my arm over it, kind of like sleeping with my old lady at home, except my food bag doesn’t elbow, kick, and steal the covers.

Continuing north on Beamer, cliffs force the trail up onto the Tonto platform.  More River rats float by below us.  After maybe a mile of hiking from Palisades we encounter the section of trail that has earned Beamer something of a bad reputation, at least with some.  Across from Carbon Canyon there is perhaps a 50 meter stretch where the narrow trail skirts dangerously close to towering cliffs.  I know people who hike this like it’s no big deal without any fear of the exposure, but a mistake here could be fatal.  I concentrate on tunnel visioning the trail but it’s hard to pretend there isn’t a deadly drop immediately to my left.

We all make it safe and sound to the next drainage north where the Beamer Trail splits yet again.  We take the high route this time, assuming it avoids further exposure lower down.  The two routes converge after a short distance where the Beamer Trail becomes a poor man’s Tonto Trail, contouring in and out of countless minor drainages.  We stop for a lunch break across from Temple Butte as more River rats float beneath us.

As we finally approach the Little Colorado River confluence yet even more River rats are swarming the waters.  I have never seen this many people (boaters or otherwise) in The Canyon outside of the corridor.

One of the boats is tied up at our beach camp south of the confluence.  Time to stroll over and see what’s going on.  After wading through the academic jargon, I learn many of these boats are teams of scientists surveying and mapping The River bottom.  They even have a little motorboat that is ferrying people and supplies up and down and back and forth all over The River.

Despite all the commotion we make the best of camp and siesta in the shade.  The fishing gods are still pitching a shutout.  I am starting to believe that the trout eradication measures taken by the Park Service to protect the endangered humpback chub are actually working!  Or at least that’s what I’m willing to blame our bad luck on.

Day 4 – Day hike up the Little Colorado River gorge:

We are all happy to be trekking sans heavy packs for our day-hike up the Little Colorado River.  At the confluence there is a stark contrast between the greenish River and muddy brown LCR.  These waters clearly do not mix well.

In under an hour we’re at the Beamer cabin.  This prospector dwelling was built into the base of an overhanging Tapeats cliff over a hundred years ago.  The cabin is still in great shape with some interesting relics inside, but there’s also pack rat shit everywhere so we don’t linger long.  These ledges were certainly occupied by Anasazi as well, but the artifacts have been mostly picked clean.

We make it another few miles further up the LCR gorge then stop for a snack.  Before continuing I start doing the math in my head.  It’s midday, hot, my foot is hurting some, and if I want to make it all the way to our intended destination and back to camp I will have to hike almost 7 miles on 1 quart of water (I would prefer to only drink LCR water as a last resort).

With some regret I decide to call it a day here while the BSers continue ahead.  They eventually cross the LCR and make it to our goal for the day-hike.  On their return BS2 takes a nasty spill and gets some fairly severe cuts on his leg.

On my way back I try staying closer to the LCR, which leads to some bushwacking here and there, eventually stumbling upon some more scientific equipment I’m assuming is used for humpback chub research.  Back at the confluence I encounter a hiking couple looking for a way to cross the LCR and The River.  They are doing Grandview to Nankoweap, an ambitious hike for most, but even more impressive when I learn they are on about week 7 of their through hike along the Arizona Trail!  What an adventure.

Back in camp the fishing gods continue their shutout, in fact at this point they are working on a no-hitter.

Day 5 – Beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence to Comanche Creek:

For a couple days now BS1 has been teasing us that he will hitchhike on the 1^st boat back to Palisades.  Only minutes after we ascend from our beach camp more River rats float by, they appear to have plenty of room for all of us.  Too late now.

Cloudy skies bless the hike back down Beamer, a welcome relief from some hot temps of the last 2 days.  We opt for the high route again where the trail splits.  Interestingly, there is a small rock barricade discouraging southerly travel on the low route, but there was/is no such barricade at the trail split coming from the opposite way.

The BSers have waited for me back at the exposed section of trail.  They proceed as a terrible wind whips across the exposed trail, forcing the BSers to lean down towards the uphill “safe” side of the trail.  The wind relents briefly, BSers continue around the bend out of sight, then yet another brutal gust of April wind threatens our balance.  Within seconds the BSers are hustling back towards me.  Apparently BS1 asked BS2 how things were looking, the wind came blasting through again, and he said “we need to turn around…now.”

In anticipation of any wind today, I had eyeballed a route to bypass this tricky section back on day 3, so that’s what we decide to do.  The bypass is easy and safe, we simply go up and over the ridge immediately east of the exposed section.  Parts of this bypass route are cairned so we obviously aren’t the first to avoid that sketchy stretch.

We stop at Palisades to retrieve a food cache and have lunch, then continue down to the Comanche Creek area where we find a nice beach camp.  A storm has been following and threatening us all day, so BS2 sets up his tent.  I only have my rainfly and am quite thankful he had extra stakes, the fly would just not hold up in the wind without being anchored.

Figuring it’s our last chance we try our luck fishing again.  Within minutes it is raining steadily.  So I guess it’s official, the fishing gods went from shutout to no-hitter to pitching a perfect game.

The science boaters are all over the place again.  The motorboat cruises up River then slows and beckons us over to shore.  I walk down and he just wants to apologize for any inconvenience they’ve been imposing on our wilderness experience.  I tell him it’s no problem, then he asks if there’s anything we need.  This is my chance.  I tell him if he can scare up a few cold beers that would be great.  He says he’ll be passing by the kitchen and he’ll see what he can do, then motors off again.

The wait seems forever and of course it starts raining harder.  BS2 jumps in his tent to stay dry, I would do the same but for my fear of missing the beer boat.  Standing there drenched I get to thinking.  Why on Earth did I say “cold” beer?  At this point we could care less what temperature the beer is as long as we have some.

I hear a faint motor through the rain.  My heart skips a beat.  The beer boat is returning.  BS1 asks me to check if the boater will take out his backpacking detritus so I grab his trash bag and hustle down to the boat.  This is a historical Yermo moment.  I am handing a River rat a bag of trash and in return he hands me a bag of beers!  I know of no other place where such a transaction would be considered normal.

We enjoy our frothy beverages with a hearty cheers.  Warm PBR never tasted better.  The rain eventually chases us back to our shelters, where I cook up a meal and finish the beer.  The storm remains fairly intense throughout most of the night.

Day 6 – Comanche Creek to upper Tanner Canyon:

At first light I peek my head out the rainfly, the sky is mostly clear.  A relief for sure, I hate packing up in the rain.  Also, last night we discussed hiking all the way out today if it was still stormy, but we seem to have scored one more night in The Canyon.

Apparently I fared the driest.  The BSers squeezed into that little tent, which proved to be something far less than waterproof, and awoke drenched.  Any sleep they did get was in puddles of water.

We give the sun a chance to dry us out some and then hit the trail back to Tanner Beach to pump plenty of water for our dry camp tonight.  It seems some jackass brought their dog down here since we left as there are tracks everywhere.

Before departing we see 2 seagulls (yes, seagulls, I have never seen them in The Canyon before and suspect they are making their way up from the Lake Havasu area?) soaring low over The River.  Heading back up Tanner there has been an explosion of blooming wildflowers since we passed through 5 days ago.

Above the Tapeats boulder field a large group passes by on their way down.  Mostly youngtsers, a few of them seem beat up and perhaps ill prepared (i.e. jeans, behemoth packs, and dog-tired faces).  We skip the Redwall camp, sacrificing those views for more wind shelter in the small bay northeast of Cardenas Butte.

After we get settled and hide out some minor rain sprinkles, a Ranger strolls into camp.  In dozens of trips outside the corridor this is the first time I have ever been checked for permit legitimacy.  We chat for awhile and she tells us a Canadian couple got ticketed at the rim for bringing that dog down.  She also encountered that large group we saw earlier and said they were mostly beat up from the hike and had to change their aggressive itinerary.

I run out of stove fuel exactly after cooking my last dinner, and I would love to take credit for planning on being that lucky.  BS1 decides to try sleeping under a boulder overhang, it only takes a couple pack rat runs across his body to move his sleeping pad up closer to us.

Day 7 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

On our way out it starts snowing above 75-mile saddle.  This is starting to feel like more than coincidence perhaps, but every time I have ascended Tanner it has been snowing.  Not sure if the BSers were taking it easy on me but the trek out only takes about 2 hours and I’m at the rim right behind them.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To see more about BS1 and his wanderings through Arizona click here.

To see the trip report for these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

Mr. Jamrock and I begin our descent on Tanner Trail at about noon, yet another late start caused by various morning setbacks. We spent last night car camping just outside the Park, and sub-freezing early temperatures delayed our packing process. Experience has taught me we need to keep a quick pace to make it to The River before sundown, yet right from the start it is clear Mr. Jamrock’s pack is too heavy and his progress suffers as a result.

At the head of 75-Mile Canyon I wait for Mr. Jamrock to catch up. He looks exhausted and is already drenched with sweat. An hour later I am waiting again in the “blizzard camp” from my Tanner trip three years ago. Mr. Jamrock approaches slowly, lumbering along and breathing heavily, sits down on a boulder and promptly vomits twice. Now my concern shifts from anxiety over the location of tonight’s camp to his well-being. He insists he’s fine despite having a meager breakfast and being nearly out of water. We are both carrying two extra quarts of water to cache atop the Redwall for our return, but now it seems we may need it sooner.

Atop the Redwall descent it is decision time. Daylight is waning and Mr. Jamrock is exhausted, we will camp here. In anticipation of this possibility I have been conserving my water supply so we should be alright, but unfortunately we will have to consume our cache.

There are several fabulous campsites north of the Redwall switchbacks, with some of the most scenic views to be found anywhere in Canyon backcountry.  Like the eye of Sauron, Desert View Watchtower presides over all while perched on the South Rim.  I lounge on the point, soaking up the view, while Mr. Jamrock naps for a spell.  His need to rehydrate those lost fluids has me water nervous so we continue to cautiously ration throughout the night.

Day 2 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to beach north of Espejo Creek:

We skip morning coffee and cocoa to save water and hit the trail early. I give Mr. Jamrock the two quarts I was carrying for the cache that will no longer be available for our return. Coming down the Redwall I spook a large owl (possibly a short-eared owl?) out of a stunted juniper tree. The sudden flight movement startles me.

The sloping traverse below the Redwall is as long as remembered. With no viable options for a sitting rest, this part of the trek always has my toes jamming into the ends of my boots, an uncomfortable hiking situation to be sure. At the hill point before finally dropping into the Tanner drainage I give Mr. Jamrock my last quart of water.

It is a relief to reach The River at Tanner Beach, especially for a dehydrated Mr. Jamrock. We drink our fill of filtered nature’s champagne, make some gatorade, and eat lunch; taking about a two hour rest before our trek resumes up River. As we depart two backpackers trudge into one of the beach camps, looks like a father-daughter team.

Aside from a short climb where the beach is pinched out by cliffs, the hike up Beamer Trail to Espejo Creek is mostly a sandy stroll within earshot of The River. Near the small island north of Espejo Creek the trail forks into an upper and lower route. Around the corner there is a large cairn so we opt to decline the ascent and continue on the low route as it seems passable. The two routes converge back into one across from the north end of the island so the time saved is minimal at best. It appears that the water level would have to be abnormally high to make the low route impassable.

We make camp at a nice sandy beach so I can have some time to fish. The River here is serene and peaceful, but bereft of hungry trout. Fading sunlight casts an illuminating glow on Lava Butte and the stratified colors of Palisades of the Desert.

Day 3 – Beach north of Espejo Creek to Palisades Creek:

I had originally hoped to hike Beamer all the way to the Little Colorado River confluence, but the events of Day 1 have tempered my ambitions out of cautious respect for the demanding nature of the trek. Today will be a short hike to Palisades Creek, more of a layover day really.

There are several nice beach sites to choose from, and we pitch tents right next to The River’s edge, with just enough beach space to account for mildly fluctuating water levels. It is very warm today so we build a shade shelter on the beach, using my tent’s rainfly. Time for some fishing.

First cast…fish on! A nice ten inch rainbow trout, maybe deciding to stay here will be a wise angling choice at least. The fishing here continues to be outstanding, really some of the best I’ve seen in The Canyon. I get a few hits and land several more rainbows, including one at about fourteen inches and two pounds.

With so much fun to be had today, and very little physical work, it would seem that we are undeserving of a cocktail hour. Perhaps so, but that doesn’t stop us anyway. What a gorgeous night, a shimmering half-moon light stretches across the surface of The River.

Day 4 – Palisades Creek to Tanner Beach:

Great beginning to another easy day as I reel in another respectable rainbow on my first cast of the morning. A few more trout are to follow, one of which hit my spinner and fought so hard I initially thought it was a bad snag. I am reluctant to leave but we need to get back to Tanner Beach.

Retracing our steps along Beamer I scare up a couple waterfowl (western grebe or merganser?) near the low route from Day 2. Back at Tanner we have a visitor in camp, a small lizard that has somehow lost its tail. It scurries around for a meal sneaking up on flies but always scares them off at the critical moment.

We travel down River along the Escalante Route to try out the fishing there. Rounding some massive sand dunes a huge plume of smoke is visible above the South Rim. On our drive in we passed some preparations for a prescribed forest burn, and hopefully that’s what we’re looking at. From down here it looks like a massive bomb has exploded on the rim, and we wonder if the planned burn didn’t perhaps get a little out of control.

The current here is too swift for successful angling so I return up River. There is an excellent eddy at the River bend above Tanner Rapids where my efforts are rewarded with a few more rainbows.

Night comes on as we filter gallons of water for our dry camp tomorrow. The first mice encounters of this trip occur as a pair boldly darts in and out of our camp throughout the evening.

Day 5 – Tanner Beach to Tanner Canyon atop Redwall:

Mr. Jamrock has learned his Canyon water lesson and begins today’s trek shouldering a pack that contains about twenty-five pounds of water. I also succumb to the urge to overcompensate my water needs and leave with about nine quarts, way more than I typically carry even in anticipation of a dry camp.

The ascent to the base of the Redwall and then up the switchbacks takes its customary time. All this extra water weight has really taken a physical toll on my body and I’m exhausted when we reach the spur trail to our camp from Day 1. We decide to camp there again so I lay out my sleeping pad for a short nap in the sun.

Wake up feeling completely refreshed, and just in time for a real Canyon treat. While our planned water cache to start the trip didn’t work out, we still had something valuable to stash behind which Mr. Jamrock has retrieved – four cold cans of beer. We sit on the point, admiring the view and sipping our tasty, frothy beverages.

It’s the coldest night of the trip and I use every layer of clothing I have packed. Hot drinks are a warm welcome for our last night in The Canyon.

Day 6 – Tanner Canyon atop Redwall to Tanner Trailhead:

Around 3 am this morning the wind really picks up and starts battering our tents relentlessly. My tent panels are making such a racket while whipping against my head and body that I have to get up twice to re-secure the tent. Even after sunrise the intense winds will not abate, if not for a quick move by Mr. Jamrock my sleeping pad nearly blows off the point into a thousand foot freefall.

Extreme gusts are prevalent throughout or trek to the rim but we persevere. We reach the parking area at Lipan Point with perfect timing. Just as we’re saluting a great trip with a couple cold beers it starts snowing. Getting back on the road, the prescribed burn we saw is still smoldering but appears completely controlled.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.