The eleventh hour forced a change to our original itinerary. Pablo, Kaiser, Mason, and I had planned to hike the Gems between South Bass and Boucher, but over a foot of snow and closure of the Hermit Road for an indefinite amount of time made that mostly impossible. We were told by Service personnel that we “would need a tank to get to the trailhead.” When the rest of us meet Kaiser to set up a car camp at the South Rim, Pablo balks at all the snow and offers to buy a room at Maswick Lodge for the night. No complaints from anyone. Plan B’s are discussed and at one point we nearly scuttle The Canyon entirely, but we settle on hiking the Escalante Route.

There is so much snow the backcountry office opens 2½ hours late at 10:30 am. This jeopardizes our chance to get to Tanner Rapids before sundown. We soon learn that’s irrelevant because the Desert View road is closed, thus leaving Bright Angel Trail as our only option. I swallow my pride and swap out the permits. Leading a trip from South Bass to Boucher will remain a thorn in my side for now.

This trip will be different, but the company is perfect, and at least we’re still in The Canyon. We hit the trailhead about noon to begin our descent to Indian Garden. The snowfall and clouds are so thick we can’t even see the mile deep gorge we’ve decided to explore. Fortunately a mule train has preceded our passage and there is a well worn path with no ice. Just up the trail from the 1 ½ Mile Resthouse we see a young California condor perched on a cliff face. It has yet to lose all the darker feathers around the head signifying immaturity.

Atop the Redwall clouds finally begin to lift, revealing nice views of the Inner Gorge and snow capped buttes of The Canyon. If we have to stay in developed campgrounds we picked a great time for a storm. Hikers are few and far between, and we share Indian Garden with only one other group.

Everything is damp and there are some patches of snow around, but luckily the snow/rain mix stops falling. Pablo can’t wait to show us his Mexican plaster mug for hot cocoa. He didn’t tell me about it previously, because he knew I would tell him plaster was a bad idea. Reaching into his pack, he finds it broken, never even got to use it once.

Our permit is for four, but we are actually joined by a fifth. His name is Señor Misterioso. He is a few inches tall, glows in the dark, and brings excitement to our otherwise mundane existence. Kaiser and Pablo meet him for the first time on the picnic table at night. As usual, Pablo’s thundering banshee snore echoes off the canyon walls throughout the night.

Day 2 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

Pablo is first to rise early and attempts to wake us all to prepare hot drinks and food for him. He is met with expletive laden rebukes, but it’s enough to get us up and ready for our morning day-hike to Plateau Point. Yesterday a Ranger told us the storm would last for a few days, but the sky is almost entirely clear. The scenery from the point is spectacular. We can see Bright Angel Trail descending into the canyon cut by Pipe Creek. Granite Gorge plummets beneath our feet to the west. The snow clad faces of Zoroaster and Brahma Temples are especially striking.

The trek from Indian Garden to Bright Angel is just shy of five miles. We follow Garden Creek until the drainage becomes nearly impassable; then detour along the trail to the adjacent eastern side canyon and switchback down the Devil’s Corkscrew to Pipe Creek. The few hikers we encounter give the top of my pack strange looks. Apparently Señor Misterioso is hitching a ride there.

Below the switchbacks another half hour brings us to Pipe Creek Beach and our first close encounter with The River. A slight, sandy climb up Canyon leads to the first of two suspension bridges that cross over to Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Looking beneath my feet at The River through the grated metal of Silver Bridge creeps me out more than many other exposed areas of The Canyon I’ve encountered.

We choose one of the bigger B.A. campsites and put Pablo in the corner to mitigate the banshee snoring. Kaiser learns a Canyon lesson the hard way. After nightfall he leaves his tent open briefly and a ringtail darts in, grabs some peanuts and climbs thirty feet up a massive cottonwood, all within a matter of seconds. Throughout the night our perimeter is patrolled and invaded by that ringtail; and one small opportunistic skunk that takes advantage of the peanuts dropped by the ringtail.

For a nightcap we head up to the Phantom Ranch Canteen for a few rounds of $4 cans of beer. One of us asks the young woman behind the counter what kinds of beer they have and she replies, “Bud.” The canteen is warm and our spirits are high, as closing nears we are the only customers in the joint.

Day 3 – Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground:

The trek continues today as we plan to hike about seven miles up the North Kaibab Trail, following Bright Angel Creek the whole way. Mason wakes up to find Señor Misterioso hiding in his oatmeal bowl, and later he somehow makes his way into Kaiser’s boot.

Shortly after departing upstream beyond Phantom Ranch, we pass the Clear Creek Trail junction. I take a mental note because I’ll be hiking up that way on a another trip only twenty days from now.

The slot canyon cut by Bright Angel Creek is spectacular and deep with dozens of twists and turns. I wish we had more time to explore the even narrower side canyons and tributaries. There are several bridges to cross, before the canyon opens up to a wider, sunny valley. We stop for lunch above Willow Springs. I am reminded once again of the dramatic temperature fluctuations in The Canyon. Two days ago we were bundled up hiking through snow. Right now we’re comfortably hanging out shirtless and eating lunch so our sweaty clothes can dry out.

As usual I conservatively underestimate how far we’ve come, when we approach the junction to Ribbon Falls it’s only lunchtime. We decide to skip the falls for tomorrow and continue on to Cottonwood Campground. There is a small waterfall where the trail crosses Wall Creek.

The campground is situated within a grove of scrub oak, and we choose an open site closer to the creek since we will need to pump water there (the piped water at this campground is shut down during the winter). Again there is only one other small group here and we never even hear them. Pablo’s banshee snore has stirred a vote among the rest of us and he is unanimously banished to the immediate campsite north of us. But only for bedtime.

We start pumping water at the creek and my filter promptly breaks; some problem with the intake valve. This filter’s been through a lot, perhaps barely enough for this nuisance to be excused. Conveniently, Kaiser brought his pump and we also have backup purifying tablets.

I start to heat up some water for hot cocktails and nearly cook up Señor Misterioso, who is hiding in my Jetboil for some reason. It’s cold and windy tonight but there are lots of stars to gaze at, and some lively debate as to whether the moving ones are planes, satellites, or UFO’s.

Day 4 – Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

The next 2 ½ days will be spent retracing our steps, so we start back towards Phantom Ranch. The side detour to Ribbon Falls is well worth the trip. It’s a beautiful waterfall, somewhere on par with the likes of Elves Chasm or Deer Creek Falls. We sit behind the falls as sunlight filters through the cascading water to warm our bodies from the cool spraying mist.

Knowing what to expect, we knock out the rest of the hike in short order. This time we choose two sites next to Bright Angel Creek, one is for the banishment of Pablo.

A herd of mule deer grazes in and around our camp. We have seen deer every day of this trip. Two does walk right up to Pablo’s tent while he’s inside, and he never even notices.

After dinner we mosey back over to the Canteen again. This time the place is packed. There are maybe fifty people in here and not a seat to be had. Some folks are just sitting on the floor. We have to drink our first round standing up until some seats finally clear. Luckily the $4 beer tonight is Tecate, so at least there our situation has improved. Back at the campsite Kaiser, Mason, and I enjoy some late night libations.

Day 5 – Bright Angel Campground to Indian Garden Campground:

We awake to cloudy skies, and it appears the bad weather we’d heard about last night from a Canteen patron is going to materialize. Light showers and mist accompany us throughout our hike back up to Indian Garden. When we stop for lunch I discover Señor Misterioso has been in my food bag, stomping my pita bread into pieces.

We try to dry our gear out after stopping, but the rain and snow falls just enough to foil us. Mason and I move our tents to a high ground campsite where there’s a little more room under the picnic shelters. We also help to move Pablo’s table so he can stay drier. Kaiser and I finish the last of the whiskey in some hot cocktails, complete with lemon juice and honey packets, courtesy of the Canteen.

Day 6 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead:

We get our earliest start of the trip and make the hike up in about three hours. Light snow and rain makes things interesting and chilly. Ice cold Guinness awaits us in Kaiser’s truck.

Length:

Water: During the dry season water will be nonexistent between Bright Angel Creek and Clear Creek, so plan accordingly.  After storms during the wet season water can be found in a number of potholes along the trail between Sumner Wash and Zoroaster Canyon, some of which can be reliable for many days in wet years.  Other than that, the only water you will find is the perennial flow of Clear Creek.

Campsites: There is no camping allowed between Phantom Ranch and Sumner Wash. From there to the creek, camping is at-large. There are marginal sites near the trail, in and between the minor side-canyons east of Sumner Wash, and also in Zoroaster Canyon. Beyond this canyon, sites are limited at best and somewhat worthless given your proximity to the creek.  The campsites at Clear Creek are the best option.

Reflections and Attractions: This is an enjoyable excursion along the north side of the Colorado River, quite similar to the Tonto Trail hiking across The River. The Phantom Ranch Overlook is a great place for lunch or a short break. If you don’t mind the possibility of snow and ice near the rim, we recommend trekking the Clear Creek Trail during winter. Keep your eyes out for wildlife (like mule deer and bighorns) and Anasazi ruins that are “near” the trail. The Clear Creek area is a fine basecamp for extended explorations.

Warnings and Musings: Attempting to reach the at-large camping area at Sumner Wash from either rim is a long day and not recommended. Plan on spending the night before at Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Campground, or Cottonwood Campground (the longest option). Hike smart here during the hot season, as the trail is virtually shadeless and scorching. Watch your footing during the final, steep descent to the creek. Be alert during the monsoon season for flash flooding in the Clear Creek area.

Whether or not you need a water purification device for backpacking in the Grand Canyon depends on a few factors. For treks within the corridor backcountry use areas during the peak season, there is piped water available in a few places along the North Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails; and at Phantom Ranch as well. Be water wise if your backcountry permit itinerary includes ascending or descending South Kaibab Trail, as there is no water available. No matter where or when your planned trip will take you within Grand Canyon, always carry a sufficient quantity of water on the trail and check in with the Backcountry Information Center about water availability.

For those who have gained some Grand Canyon backpacking experience and wish to adventure on to non-corridor trails, packing a water purification device or iodine tablets is still highly recommended. While some veterans of the Grand Canyon backcountry can handle drinking unpurified spring water, the risks of contracting a debilitating water-born illness such as Giardia should be a priority to consider.

If you’re counting on the Colorado River as a source of drinking water, be advised that it can be heavily silt laden on a frequent basis. An expression common with the old-timers of Grand Canyon’s history referred to the Colorado River as, “too thick to drink, too thin to plow.” Many Grand Canyon backpackers prepare for this situation by carrying a lightweight collapsible bucket to let sediment settle at the bottom before purification, or bring some form of water straining device.