To read the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

Length:

Water: Perennial water sources along the East Tonto Trail are the Colorado River, Hance Creek, Miner’s Spring, Grapevine Spring, Burro Spring, Pipe Spring, and Indian Garden Campground. Seasonal water sources can be found in Red Canyon, Cottonwood Creek, Boulder Canyon, Lonetree Canyon, and Cremation Canyon. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for water reports before a trip.

Campsites: There is no camping allowed on the trail from between Indian Garden Campground to about a half mile east of South Kaibab Trail.  The remaining use areas for this trail have at-large camping. Campsites are plentiful and can be found in nearly every side-canyon and on the Tonto platform between side-canyons.

Reflections and Attractions: Relative to other GC trails, the East Tonto offers some of the easier hiking to be found in this natural wonderland. Don’t miss the bypass detour as you round into Mineral Canyon from the east, otherwise you’ll have to negotiate the ledge. The Hance Creek area is one of our favorite spots in GC. Grapevine Canyon goes on forever and is one of the longest south rim side-canyons. All of the side-canyons along this area offer excellent exploring opportunities, and fantastic views of the numerous buttes across the inner gorge. Keep your eyes peeled for desert bighorns when trekking this trail.

Warnings and Musings: If you insist on hiking this trail during the summer don’t be foolish about it. Have plenty of water, don’t pass up any midday shade and hike only in the cooler early morning and evening hours. By combining other GC trails, the East Tonto Trail is a scenic thru-way for extended point-to-point or loop trips. The best season to be on this trail is late winter or early spring, as water will be less of an issue.

Length:

Water: The New Hance Trail (perhaps more appropriately called the Red Canyon Trail to avoid confusion) is typically waterless until reaching the Colorado River.  There is a seasonal spring upstream from where the trail reaches the bed of Red Canyon, but if you are descending and planned smartly you shouldn’t need it.   We did once find pothole water above the Redwall after a storm in March.

Campsites: The use area for this trail is at-large camping. There are a couple small sites above the Redwall to break an ascent into two days. The bed of Red Canyon is also an option, but given the shortness of this trail (by GC standards), the beach sites at Hance Rapids are the obvious choice.

Reflections and Attractions: From the trailhead, Coronado Butte looms as an ancient sentry, gaurding the saddle between Red Canyon and the east fork of Hance Creek. Views from Red Canyon Overlook atop the Redwall are stunning, and make the naming of this canyon obvious. The rockslides through the Supai along the east side of Red Canyon can be tedious, and watch your step descending the loose footing along the ridge into the bottom. From the bed of Red Canyon to Hance Rapids is a tease, with a few pour-off bypasses to the east, and that roaring sound of The River starts further away than expected before it finally comes into view. The end of your day’s journey, Hance Rapids, is a delight, especially if you get to witness some River rats running this dangerous whitewater.

Warnings and Musings: As should be expected with GC’s shortest Rim-to-River trail, the New Hance is steep! From the Rim to the Supai layer, it don’t matter which way you’re headed, prepare for a knee-busting descent or a lung-busting ascent. Attempting this trail without prior GC experience is not recommended, the steepness cannot be overstated and with its unmaintained status and narrow tread, some claim the New Hance stretches the definition of a trail.

Pablito, D.K., and I were unable to complete this trip nine months ago. That was due to an over-abundance of caution regarding a minor diabetic issue with Pablito. This time Pablito and I have come back for some redemption.

We’re also better prepared this time for the crazy steepness of the New Hance Trail and make good time. From near the Hance/Red Canyon saddle there appears to be 2 day-hikers attempting the summit of Coronado Butte. At the overlook above the Redwall we take our first break.

The descent through the Redwall and down the ridgeline below is a knee-buster. There are sections where the footing is loose enough to demand careful attention. It is a relief to drop into the bed of Red Canyon and we rest as two ravens float about, waiting for us to briefly abandon our packs. There is some sporadic seasonal water flow up-canyon from where the trail bottoms out.

After a few pour-offs that are bypassed to the east, I hear that unmistakable roar of The River and my pace quickens until Hance Rapids come into view. The water runs green and foamy over piles of boulders that have created the rapids. Pablito follows up and exclaims, “My boots are stained red with the blood of New Hance!”

We make our temporary home in a mesquite patch on the eastern dunes. I chat briefly with a solo hiker camped below us who has trekked here from Tanner Trail. Our late morning start prevents a lengthy lounging session of soaking up the scenery before darkness motivates dinner preparations.

Day 2 – Hance Rapids to east rim of Hance Creek:

Packing up camp, I am reminded once again of the drastic temperature fluctuation possibilities between the rim and River. Winter grips The Canyon and the rim is frosty, but down here I’m perfectly content to complete pre-hiking chores shirtless.

We are running late, it’s nearly noon and we still have to pump water for today’s trek. The pumping goes slow, I have to clean my filter twice to account for the heavily silt laden water.

Finally we are ready to leave and head west along the Tonto Trail, as it climbs towards Mineral Canyon. I passed through here about five years ago, and my memory fails me. We are hiking along a typical Tonto slope, and approaching the point where we should round south into Mineral Canyon, when unexpectedly the trail pinches out to a ledge along a cliff face. I have forgotten and missed the upper bypass to avoid this section.

I approach the beginning of the narrow ledge and immediately brace my left hand against the cliff. Pablito asks if I’m alright and I don’t respond; he’ll find out soon enough. The plunge down to the right drops off for hundreds of feet. The view is so unsettling I vow to make it across without looking down again. To make things interesting there is also a difficult overhang to negotiate.

Keeping my left hand in constant contact with the cliff face I shuffle cautiously in a crouched position to the overhang. No real safe option here but to crawl beneath it. I slink awkwardly along to the end, and then it’s over. I can breathe easy back on the relative safety of the Tonto slope. For the first time I can turn to see how Pablito’s handling this.

Not so good. He is lying on his stomach at the beginning of the overhang and not moving. I ask if he’s okay. Pablito mumbles something then continues slithering across the ledge. Now under the overhang, his heavy pack is leaning too far towards the abyss. He shifts the pack, but overcompensates, and it ricochets off the overhang and sways ever dangerously close to the plunge. He stops again and shouts, “Help me dammit!” There’s really nothing I can do physically to assist, so I just try to encourage him across the rest of the ledge and eventually he makes it.

We take a longer lunch break around the corner so Pablito can regain his composure after the “Ledge of Terror.” The traverse around Mineral Canyon is time consuming. After two false saddles we finally top out on the west side and are treated to fine views of Granite Gorge. We contour south into the deep side canyon cut by Hance Creek, and now we’re in a race against time. Can we make it to the creek crossing before dark?

No, we run out of daylight, and continue detouring minor side canyons with headlamps on. My memory fails us again and I can’t remember how much further we have to the creek. I don’t want to take any chances hiking in the dark and we have enough water to hold out until tomorrow, so we stop in a small alcove off the trail just big enough to make camp. After dinner at least one mouse repeatedly attempts to raid our packs, but we maintain a vigilant defense with stones and trekking poles. Later I hear a larger critter scurrying outside the tent (ringtail?).

Day 3 – East rim of Hance Creek to Horseshoe Mesa:

A creek surprise for breakfast, & a mesa disappointment for dinner.

We wake up earlier after learning yesterday’s lesson, and skip breakfast in favor of getting to the creek. Looking out from our alcove, we still can’t determine how deep the creek’s gorge is until rounding a bend, where the trail unexpectedly switch-backs briefly down to a sandy clearing next to the water. I can’t help but laugh. We had made camp less than a quarter mile from the creek without knowing it! The deepness of the gorge had made it impossible to hear the running water.

Hance Creek is a rare gem, being a source of perennial water in The Canyon. We listen to the water trickle by and relax, a little disappointed that we missed out on this great campsite. Then the trek uphill towards Horseshoe Mesa resumes.

At Miner’s Spring we stop to fill up water for the last time. The trail passes a well known and over-photographed old mining tunnel, complete with abandoned equipment. I stop and take a picture of Pablito. He has been worried about the Redwall ascent but we muscle it out in good time.

We set up camp and stroll over to the west side of the mesa, a nice overlook of Cottonwood Creek will suit just fine for cocktail hour. Pablito is responsible for tonight’s meal and has planned poorly; we both have maybe a cup of pasta. Tomorrow’s lunch stash is raided to compensate.

Day 4 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

Pablito left his pack open outside last night for mice to get into some of the food and trash. Lucky for us they somehow missed our breakfast. We head up the Grandview Trail and I leave Pablito behind, as he loses some momentum at the false rim I had warned him about. At the saddle into upper Hance Creek I pass two younger women backpacking out and make a mental note. Near the rim an older tourist looks shocked at my appearance and asks where I’ve been. I point towards the sliver of River visible above Sockdolager Rapids and say, “There.” He appears unconvinced.

At Grandview Point I’m waiting on Pablito and those two young ladies arrive. Apparently they’ve been following our footsteps for the last four days. We don’t have a ride back to Pablito’s car near the New Hance Trailhead, so I put my mental note plan into action and ask for a ride. My timing is perfect as they oblige right when Pablito arrives at the rim.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.

10. South Kaibab

While hiking Grand Canyon is all relative, this trail is one of the easiest at about 7 miles in length.  It has an elevation loss+gain of approximately 9,600 feet. This is a well maintained corridor trail, just watch out for mule droppings.

9. South Bass

This trail, at nearly 8 miles and 8,800 feet of elevation loss+gain, may feature the longest and most difficult drive to the trailhead. By Grand Canyon standards, the steep sections of this trail are short and few between.

8. New Hance

The only thing keeping this trail from lower on the list is its brevity, at 6.5 miles it is the shortest Rim-to-River trail. But at 8,900 feet of elevation loss+gain, your knees will feel the burn of 700 feet of elevation per mile. The section between the South Rim and Coronado Saddle is particularly steep.

7. North Kaibab

The only thing keeping this trail from higher on the list is its length, at 14 miles it’s one of Grand Canyon’s longest. This well maintained corridor trail features 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain, but the vast majority of that steepness occurs in the first half. The second half of trail between Cottonwood Campground and Bright Angel Campground is more a stroll than a hike.

6. Hermit

This trail is almost 10 miles long and has an elevation loss+gain of 8,700 feet. While unmaintained, it is still in good condition. Many a Grand Canyon backpacker has found descending and/or ascending the Cathedral Stairs an exhausting proposition.

5. Tanner

What makes this 9 mile trail with 9,300 feet of elevation loss+gain particularly difficult is the complete lack of water, unless you’re lucky enough to be hiking during or right after a storm. The section between the Rim and 75-Mile Saddle is steep, and the stretch from atop the Redwall to the Colorado River is vastly bereft of shade.

4. Boucher

This trailhead is technically located beneath the Rim in Hermit Basin. However, if you plan to hike it all the way to the bottom, the distance from Hermit Trailhead is 10.5 miles. There is an elevation loss+gain of 8,500 feet. The lack of consistent switchbacks through the Supai and Redwall layers make this trail painfully steep.

3. Thunder River

The distance from this remote North Rim trailhead to the Colorado River is 14 miles. Round trip from Indian Hollow contains 8,600 feet of elevation loss+gain. The Esplanade traverse is the only longer portion of this trail that isn’t strenuous. When departing from the Bill Hall Trailhead, this hike can be shortened by about 3 miles.

2. North Bass

Only the most experienced, determined, and physically fit hikers will finish this 13.5 mile hike in 1 day. This trail is very challenging and features many sections that are in poor condition. On the bright side, solitude and perennial water near the halfway point can ease the struggles of this difficult trek.

1. Nankoweap

Ask any veteran Grand Canyon backpacker, and the majority will answer that this is the most difficult Rim-to-River trail. Depending on your choice of trailhead, this hike is about 14 miles long and experiences roughly 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain. The northern trailhead actually has a substantial elevation gain before even reaching the Park boundary. There are lengthy and laborious steep segments, and the Supai traverse is demanding. Just to spice it up, there is no reliable perennial water until reaching Nankoweap Creek, after over 10 fatiguing miles of hiking.