I am accompanied by the Brothers Steiner (hereafter referred to as BS1 and BS2, or as the BSers) and right from the start I can tell I may be spending much of my slower hiking time alone as they speed down the trail.  We begin our trek mid-morning to the frequent serenades of a canyon wren.  BS1 has the canyon wren ringtone and instinctively reaches for his cell phone.

We rest briefly at Stegosaurus Rock and then continue to the Redwall camp for lunch and to cache some water for our return.  BS1 spots a mountain short-horned lizard.  Two hikers on their way out stop to chat and take a break, turns out they are fellow Canyon nuts and four of us graduated from the same high school.

Below the Redwall things start to warm up a little.  It doesn’t matter how many times I descend Tanner, my least favorite section is always the never ending Dox traverse.  It’s just a steep, awkward slope with no shade and no good place to rest, but at least the scenery can’t get any better.

When the trail finally hits Canyon bottom to cross Tanner Wash I just detour down the wash and shortcut my way into camp ahead of the BSers.

The River is quite muddy and we have no luck fishing.  Strong winds make us contemplate moving camp east of the wash to more sheltered sites, but we choose to remain closer to The River.

At some point during the night I realize that inside my rain jacket pocket is part of an old unwrapped forgotten granola bar from some past trip.  I’m half asleep, my food is all packed up safe from varmints, the rain jacket is my pillow, and I don’t want critters poking around my head, so I just set the granola bar aside, by first light it is gone.

Day 2 – Tanner Beach to Palisades Creek:

Awake to an amazing display of sunrise cloud colors.  BS2 discovers that mice have raided some of his food he accidentally left out.  Today is a short hike, sort of a recovery day, so we leisurely pack up camp, chat with some hikers just arriving, then head north on the Beamer Trail.

There is a short climb to negotiate some cliffs immediately upon departing Tanner Beach.  Back on the sandy flats south of Comanche Creek, BS1 spots a striped whipsnake.  We take the low route past the island north of Espejo Creek again, so I still have no idea what the high route is like.

I find the Palisades beach camp I used about 18 months ago but there is one small problem – it’s under water.  That’s a shame it was a nice little beach, but there’s still enough room for camp in the tammies a little further from shore.

We spend some time alternately fishing and hiding in the shade.  Even with all this River silt I’m a little surprised the fishing gods are skunking us, especially considering how great this fishing hole was last time I passed through.

A monstrous commercial motor rig comes barreling down The River.  I’m not sure any of the passengers expected to see a full moon at Palisades during the middle of the day.

Last night I barely needed my sleeping bag.  Tonight is cold and windy, I use my rain fly as another blanket layer for wind shelter.

Day 3 – Palisades Creek to beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence:

BS1 asks what I’ve been doing to protect my food from critters overnight.  I tell him I just sleep with my arm over it, kind of like sleeping with my old lady at home, except my food bag doesn’t elbow, kick, and steal the covers.

Continuing north on Beamer, cliffs force the trail up onto the Tonto platform.  More River rats float by below us.  After maybe a mile of hiking from Palisades we encounter the section of trail that has earned Beamer something of a bad reputation, at least with some.  Across from Carbon Canyon there is perhaps a 50 meter stretch where the narrow trail skirts dangerously close to towering cliffs.  I know people who hike this like it’s no big deal without any fear of the exposure, but a mistake here could be fatal.  I concentrate on tunnel visioning the trail but it’s hard to pretend there isn’t a deadly drop immediately to my left.

We all make it safe and sound to the next drainage north where the Beamer Trail splits yet again.  We take the high route this time, assuming it avoids further exposure lower down.  The two routes converge after a short distance where the Beamer Trail becomes a poor man’s Tonto Trail, contouring in and out of countless minor drainages.  We stop for a lunch break across from Temple Butte as more River rats float beneath us.

As we finally approach the Little Colorado River confluence yet even more River rats are swarming the waters.  I have never seen this many people (boaters or otherwise) in The Canyon outside of the corridor.

One of the boats is tied up at our beach camp south of the confluence.  Time to stroll over and see what’s going on.  After wading through the academic jargon, I learn many of these boats are teams of scientists surveying and mapping The River bottom.  They even have a little motorboat that is ferrying people and supplies up and down and back and forth all over The River.

Despite all the commotion we make the best of camp and siesta in the shade.  The fishing gods are still pitching a shutout.  I am starting to believe that the trout eradication measures taken by the Park Service to protect the endangered humpback chub are actually working!  Or at least that’s what I’m willing to blame our bad luck on.

Day 4 – Day hike up the Little Colorado River gorge:

We are all happy to be trekking sans heavy packs for our day-hike up the Little Colorado River.  At the confluence there is a stark contrast between the greenish River and muddy brown LCR.  These waters clearly do not mix well.

In under an hour we’re at the Beamer cabin.  This prospector dwelling was built into the base of an overhanging Tapeats cliff over a hundred years ago.  The cabin is still in great shape with some interesting relics inside, but there’s also pack rat shit everywhere so we don’t linger long.  These ledges were certainly occupied by Anasazi as well, but the artifacts have been mostly picked clean.

We make it another few miles further up the LCR gorge then stop for a snack.  Before continuing I start doing the math in my head.  It’s midday, hot, my foot is hurting some, and if I want to make it all the way to our intended destination and back to camp I will have to hike almost 7 miles on 1 quart of water (I would prefer to only drink LCR water as a last resort).

With some regret I decide to call it a day here while the BSers continue ahead.  They eventually cross the LCR and make it to our goal for the day-hike.  On their return BS2 takes a nasty spill and gets some fairly severe cuts on his leg.

On my way back I try staying closer to the LCR, which leads to some bushwacking here and there, eventually stumbling upon some more scientific equipment I’m assuming is used for humpback chub research.  Back at the confluence I encounter a hiking couple looking for a way to cross the LCR and The River.  They are doing Grandview to Nankoweap, an ambitious hike for most, but even more impressive when I learn they are on about week 7 of their through hike along the Arizona Trail!  What an adventure.

Back in camp the fishing gods continue their shutout, in fact at this point they are working on a no-hitter.

Day 5 – Beach camp south of Little Colorado River confluence to Comanche Creek:

For a couple days now BS1 has been teasing us that he will hitchhike on the 1^st boat back to Palisades.  Only minutes after we ascend from our beach camp more River rats float by, they appear to have plenty of room for all of us.  Too late now.

Cloudy skies bless the hike back down Beamer, a welcome relief from some hot temps of the last 2 days.  We opt for the high route again where the trail splits.  Interestingly, there is a small rock barricade discouraging southerly travel on the low route, but there was/is no such barricade at the trail split coming from the opposite way.

The BSers have waited for me back at the exposed section of trail.  They proceed as a terrible wind whips across the exposed trail, forcing the BSers to lean down towards the uphill “safe” side of the trail.  The wind relents briefly, BSers continue around the bend out of sight, then yet another brutal gust of April wind threatens our balance.  Within seconds the BSers are hustling back towards me.  Apparently BS1 asked BS2 how things were looking, the wind came blasting through again, and he said “we need to turn around…now.”

In anticipation of any wind today, I had eyeballed a route to bypass this tricky section back on day 3, so that’s what we decide to do.  The bypass is easy and safe, we simply go up and over the ridge immediately east of the exposed section.  Parts of this bypass route are cairned so we obviously aren’t the first to avoid that sketchy stretch.

We stop at Palisades to retrieve a food cache and have lunch, then continue down to the Comanche Creek area where we find a nice beach camp.  A storm has been following and threatening us all day, so BS2 sets up his tent.  I only have my rainfly and am quite thankful he had extra stakes, the fly would just not hold up in the wind without being anchored.

Figuring it’s our last chance we try our luck fishing again.  Within minutes it is raining steadily.  So I guess it’s official, the fishing gods went from shutout to no-hitter to pitching a perfect game.

The science boaters are all over the place again.  The motorboat cruises up River then slows and beckons us over to shore.  I walk down and he just wants to apologize for any inconvenience they’ve been imposing on our wilderness experience.  I tell him it’s no problem, then he asks if there’s anything we need.  This is my chance.  I tell him if he can scare up a few cold beers that would be great.  He says he’ll be passing by the kitchen and he’ll see what he can do, then motors off again.

The wait seems forever and of course it starts raining harder.  BS2 jumps in his tent to stay dry, I would do the same but for my fear of missing the beer boat.  Standing there drenched I get to thinking.  Why on Earth did I say “cold” beer?  At this point we could care less what temperature the beer is as long as we have some.

I hear a faint motor through the rain.  My heart skips a beat.  The beer boat is returning.  BS1 asks me to check if the boater will take out his backpacking detritus so I grab his trash bag and hustle down to the boat.  This is a historical Yermo moment.  I am handing a River rat a bag of trash and in return he hands me a bag of beers!  I know of no other place where such a transaction would be considered normal.

We enjoy our frothy beverages with a hearty cheers.  Warm PBR never tasted better.  The rain eventually chases us back to our shelters, where I cook up a meal and finish the beer.  The storm remains fairly intense throughout most of the night.

Day 6 – Comanche Creek to upper Tanner Canyon:

At first light I peek my head out the rainfly, the sky is mostly clear.  A relief for sure, I hate packing up in the rain.  Also, last night we discussed hiking all the way out today if it was still stormy, but we seem to have scored one more night in The Canyon.

Apparently I fared the driest.  The BSers squeezed into that little tent, which proved to be something far less than waterproof, and awoke drenched.  Any sleep they did get was in puddles of water.

We give the sun a chance to dry us out some and then hit the trail back to Tanner Beach to pump plenty of water for our dry camp tonight.  It seems some jackass brought their dog down here since we left as there are tracks everywhere.

Before departing we see 2 seagulls (yes, seagulls, I have never seen them in The Canyon before and suspect they are making their way up from the Lake Havasu area?) soaring low over The River.  Heading back up Tanner there has been an explosion of blooming wildflowers since we passed through 5 days ago.

Above the Tapeats boulder field a large group passes by on their way down.  Mostly youngtsers, a few of them seem beat up and perhaps ill prepared (i.e. jeans, behemoth packs, and dog-tired faces).  We skip the Redwall camp, sacrificing those views for more wind shelter in the small bay northeast of Cardenas Butte.

After we get settled and hide out some minor rain sprinkles, a Ranger strolls into camp.  In dozens of trips outside the corridor this is the first time I have ever been checked for permit legitimacy.  We chat for awhile and she tells us a Canadian couple got ticketed at the rim for bringing that dog down.  She also encountered that large group we saw earlier and said they were mostly beat up from the hike and had to change their aggressive itinerary.

I run out of stove fuel exactly after cooking my last dinner, and I would love to take credit for planning on being that lucky.  BS1 decides to try sleeping under a boulder overhang, it only takes a couple pack rat runs across his body to move his sleeping pad up closer to us.

Day 7 – Upper Tanner Canyon to Lipan Point:

On our way out it starts snowing above 75-mile saddle.  This is starting to feel like more than coincidence perhaps, but every time I have ascended Tanner it has been snowing.  Not sure if the BSers were taking it easy on me but the trek out only takes about 2 hours and I’m at the rim right behind them.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

To see more about BS1 and his wanderings through Arizona click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

Length:

Water: When descending, and after rounding the corner away from Marion Point, there is a seasonal spring above the trail and near the head of this side-canyon.  Perennial water can be found at Nankoweap Creek and the Colorado River. More than any other trail in GC, we strongly recommend placing a water cache for the trek out (Marion Point and Tilted Mesa are good options) while hiking Nankoweap.

Campsites: The park boundary is near the Saddle Mountain saddle and campsites can be found on either side of the boundary, just make sure you’re permit legit if camping on the park side. On the way down there is a small site at Marion Point, and several sites at Tilted Mesa (just be prepared for windy conditions). There are many sites up and down Nankoweap Creek, but the best options are near the trail junction with the creek. Campsites also abound at the beaches of Nankoweap Delta, just be prepared to possibly share the southern beach with River rats.

Reflections and Attractions: Hiking this trail is a rugged experience. The Supai traverse can seem never ending, and often approaches the brink of cliffs. Xiews from Marion Point and Tilted Mesa are priceless, especially if you can time your trip during a full moon. Finally arriving at Nankoweap Creek is a relief. The granaries at The River are a must see. With time and motivation there are nearly limitless exploration opportunities in the Nankoweap area.

Warnings and Musings: Most GC veterans will tell you that Nankoweap is the toughest trail in the park. Know what you’re getting into and don’t underestimate the steepness and length of this trail, below the Supai it sometimes seems as if you’re following the line of most resistance. Be water wise, respectful of the ruins, and if you see any River rats be sure to bum some beer from them.

Due to a late start from Tucson, Mantis and I arrive at the Saddle Mountain Trailhead around 2 AM. Countless rabbits and a lone coyote frantically crossed the dirt road before our headlights, preceding our arrival. After maybe four hours of sleep we are preparing for our trek.

The hike begins as a gradual ascent before dropping sharply into the ravine of a dry creek bed, where we crisscross our way upstream. The trail leaves the creek bed and ascends steeply to The Canyon rim below Saddle Mountain. This is an atypical Canyon trek beginning, as the first three miles are spent mostly battling gravity, as opposed to welcoming the force. With a very heavy pack complete with a water cache, the ascent burns much of my energy.

From here at the rim, the Nankoweap Trail begins and the hiking does not get any easier. The five mile Supai traverse is very demanding, and the fatigue of limited sleep is taking its toll, hurting our chances of making it all the way to Nankoweap Creek. The “scary” narrow section approaching Marion Point has been widened, also the seasonal seep spring north of that point is not flowing. We finally round a point bringing Tilted Mesa into view, a feeling of relief washes over me. Only temporary, as a ferociously powerful gust of wind whips along the trail and knocks my backpack top-heavy body to one knee. Thankfully, I have fallen towards the cliff side of the trail, and not the abyss side. By the time we reach the clearings above Tilted Mesa I call an exhausted halt to our day, and we make a dry camp.

Fearsome winds pound our camp throughout the afternoon and evening. Of all my backpacking trips in The Canyon I cannot recall ever experiencing windier conditions. An amazing red full moon rises from the east and bathes The Canyon in eerie light.

Day 2 – Tilted Mesa to Nankoweap Delta:

After caching some water, we start the Redwall descent early, although it’s already getting warm. There are many steep and unstable sections, places where a slip would send one sliding down dangerous debris slopes. At times this trail literally appears to take the line of most resistance, a characteristic uncommon amongst most trails, perhaps especially in The Canyon. I am not looking forward to returning back up this. Mantis finds an antler where the descent levels out, and it takes about two hours to reach Nankoweap Creek. Now we can relax and drink our fill, since we’re both a little dehydrated.

After resting up we’re following the creek down towards The River. Sometimes the best path is right next to the flowing water; at others it is more efficient to follow footpaths above either bank. At various intervals I choose the former to avoid a climb, while Mantis prefers the latter. It’s a hot two hours to reach The River.

At Nankoweap Delta we reach the spur trail over to the granaries and the beach camp for commercial and private rafting trips. We’d rather not potentially share a camp with River rats, so we set up on the beach north of the creek.

There is absolutely no shade here for the next couple hours until sundown. I place my pack atop a large boulder on the beach and huddle behind it for at least a sliver of protection from the blazing sun. Four rafts float by and we exchange waves. Finally the sun passes beyond the North Rim, giving us a chance to cool off for cocktail hour. Dozens of bats swarm and feast overhead. Between our arrival here and bedtime, The River’s receding tide has exposed almost ten feet of beach.

Day 3 – Nankoweap Delta to Nankoweap Creek:

At first light the foot high stick I placed at the low water level is completely submerged. Two more commercial rigs float by as we pack up camp. We shoulder packs and head over to the granaries spur trail just as the sunlight of another hot day strikes.

This is just a short day hike so we leave packs at the junction and start climbing towards the base of a Redwall cliff overlooking the delta. The ascent is very steep, but relatively short at about six hundred feet. There are many River rats descending from the ruins, one of the guides offers us a couple beers back at the rafts, but our exploration time precludes such a luxury.

The ruins themselves make the ascent more than worthwhile, and our timing is perfect as we have them all to ourselves. The centerpiece is the four “windowed” granaries that are very well preserved due to their location beneath an overhang, although I’m fairly sure the Park Service has done some rehab work on these granaries in the past. Looking down River the view is just awesome.

Our trek back up to the camps at Nankoweap Creek begins around midday, and it’s already hot again. We stop a couple times to rest next to the cool water and then set up camp at the site right next to the trail’s final descent. The remainder of today is about resting and hydrating for tomorrow’s ascent to a dry camp. Mantis kicks my butt at some hands of blackjack. There are many frogs croaking and even hopping right through camp.

Day 4 – Nankoweap Creek to Saddle Mountain saddle:

I’ve found that when I’m nervous about a particular day of hiking in The Canyon I never need an alarm; the anxiety of first light routinely wakes me. That’s why we’re on the trail by 6 am to wisely take advantage of cooler morning temperatures; and thankfully so, because the steep, grueling ascent to Tilted Mesa takes nearly three hours.

We retrieve our water cache and rest up for a spell, then retrace our steps along the Supai traverse to the campsite near Marion Point before it gets even hotter. Once at the point we have a decision to make. It’s only about noon and I am more concerned than usual about our water supply. If we stop here I think it could probably be an inefficient use of our supply, given that we have about seven hours of daylight left in which to hike. We decide to rest out the hottest hours of the day in the shade here, and then push on to the park boundary.

The rest of the traverse, and the following ascent to the saddle, takes about an hour. We arrive in time for cigars and cocktails before sundown. Our decision has been correct, we still have plenty of water and tomorrow’s hike is an easy, mostly downhill three miles. At over 7,500 feet of elevation, nighttime brings a chill to this camp, and I’m glad to finally have some use (other than pillow) for my long sleeve shirt and lightweight pants.

Day 5 – Saddle Mountain saddle to Saddle Mountain Trailhead:

Just as Day 1 was the hardest beginning to any Canyon hike we have done, today is by far the easiest ending. We make quick time back to the car. Right before the trailhead I hide from Mantis behind a large juniper, and then come running out from behind, scaring the crap out of him, if only for a few seconds. A cheap laugh for a cheap prank.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.

10. South Kaibab

While hiking Grand Canyon is all relative, this trail is one of the easiest at about 7 miles in length.  It has an elevation loss+gain of approximately 9,600 feet. This is a well maintained corridor trail, just watch out for mule droppings.

9. South Bass

This trail, at nearly 8 miles and 8,800 feet of elevation loss+gain, may feature the longest and most difficult drive to the trailhead. By Grand Canyon standards, the steep sections of this trail are short and few between.

8. New Hance

The only thing keeping this trail from lower on the list is its brevity, at 6.5 miles it is the shortest Rim-to-River trail. But at 8,900 feet of elevation loss+gain, your knees will feel the burn of 700 feet of elevation per mile. The section between the South Rim and Coronado Saddle is particularly steep.

7. North Kaibab

The only thing keeping this trail from higher on the list is its length, at 14 miles it’s one of Grand Canyon’s longest. This well maintained corridor trail features 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain, but the vast majority of that steepness occurs in the first half. The second half of trail between Cottonwood Campground and Bright Angel Campground is more a stroll than a hike.

6. Hermit

This trail is almost 10 miles long and has an elevation loss+gain of 8,700 feet. While unmaintained, it is still in good condition. Many a Grand Canyon backpacker has found descending and/or ascending the Cathedral Stairs an exhausting proposition.

5. Tanner

What makes this 9 mile trail with 9,300 feet of elevation loss+gain particularly difficult is the complete lack of water, unless you’re lucky enough to be hiking during or right after a storm. The section between the Rim and 75-Mile Saddle is steep, and the stretch from atop the Redwall to the Colorado River is vastly bereft of shade.

4. Boucher

This trailhead is technically located beneath the Rim in Hermit Basin. However, if you plan to hike it all the way to the bottom, the distance from Hermit Trailhead is 10.5 miles. There is an elevation loss+gain of 8,500 feet. The lack of consistent switchbacks through the Supai and Redwall layers make this trail painfully steep.

3. Thunder River

The distance from this remote North Rim trailhead to the Colorado River is 14 miles. Round trip from Indian Hollow contains 8,600 feet of elevation loss+gain. The Esplanade traverse is the only longer portion of this trail that isn’t strenuous. When departing from the Bill Hall Trailhead, this hike can be shortened by about 3 miles.

2. North Bass

Only the most experienced, determined, and physically fit hikers will finish this 13.5 mile hike in 1 day. This trail is very challenging and features many sections that are in poor condition. On the bright side, solitude and perennial water near the halfway point can ease the struggles of this difficult trek.

1. Nankoweap

Ask any veteran Grand Canyon backpacker, and the majority will answer that this is the most difficult Rim-to-River trail. Depending on your choice of trailhead, this hike is about 14 miles long and experiences roughly 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain. The northern trailhead actually has a substantial elevation gain before even reaching the Park boundary. There are lengthy and laborious steep segments, and the Supai traverse is demanding. Just to spice it up, there is no reliable perennial water until reaching Nankoweap Creek, after over 10 fatiguing miles of hiking.