To see the trip report from these photos click here.

To read the trip report from these photos click here.

On an intensely hot day in July of 1959, teenager John Owens and two companions hiked down Tanner Trail.  Due to a lethal combination of heat exhaustion, dehydration, and failing judgment his two hiking partners died; one from falling off a cliff and the other from heat stroke.  At Tanner Beach, Owens built a crude driftwood raft and floated down the Colorado River for the next 4 days, ending up on a sandbar near Neville Rapids.  Owens survived for the next few days on cactus pulp and mesquite beans, meanwhile constructing a massive stone landmark that aerial searchers spotted.  He was rescued barely alive by helicopter.

2.  Woman Takes Wrong Turn in Havasu Canyon

Linda Fortney decided to visit the famous waterfalls of Havasu Canyon on a scorching summer day in 1975.  She took a wrong turn and began hiking in the opposite direction of the falls up Cataract Canyon, more than ten miles from the falls and the village of Supai.  Luckily, she found an ephemeral spring with just barely enough flow to avoid dehydration.  Lost, scared, and unwilling to venture far from the spring, she survived for 18 days until Havasupai Indians tracked and rescued her.

3.  Airmen Bail Out of Plane Over GC

During World War II, three air force crewmen were forced to bail out of a plane in flight over Grand Canyon.  The pilot ordered the evacuation on a false alarm and eventually landed safely, but the crew parachuted into the area of Tuna Creek, a remote side canyon.  At the time virtually no known route existed to reach Tuna Creek within the labyrinth of Grand Canyon.  The injured airmen survived on airdrop rations for a week before searchers finally forged a route in and rescued them.

4.  Two Men Swim the Colorado River Through GC

In 1955, Bill Beer and John Daggett dreamed up the idea of being the first people to swim the Colorado River through Grand Canyon.  Their dream, albeit illegal, became a reality.  Outfitted with swimming fins, wetsuits, and waterproof gear sacks they survived the entire run; taking 26 days to complete such a dramatic and trying ordeal.  Bill Beer chronicled their gutsy journey in his book, “We Swam the Grand Canyon:  the True Story of a Cheap Vacation That Got a Little Out of Hand”.

5.  Failed Shortcut Nearly Fatal

Like many young men of his generation, Charles Myers, a college student from New York, turned his back on the east coast throngs and headed west in 1975, eventually arriving at Grand Canyon.  He chose to backpack the Hermit Trail during the hottest time of the year, and did so decidedly unprepared.  When his supply of food ran out on the 1^st day he tried to hike out using an off-trail shortcut, falling off a ledge in the process resulting in severe injuries.  After burning his clothes and possessions in a futile attempt to secure help, Myers spent 10 painful days stumbling around Hermit Creek before he was found and rescued.

6.  GC Hiking Legend’s Near Escape

Harvey Butchart, the undisputed all-time king of Grand Canyon backcountry hiking, got himself into a fair share of close calls and precarious situations during his decades of experience below the rim.  Perhaps none were more serious than his attempt to rope climb back up a cliff in the Saddle Canyon area.  Butchart, at over 60 years of age, became stuck upside down while still attached to the rope.  After a lengthy struggle he finally freed himself from the rope, only to face more than 30 straight hours of winter hiking in near freezing temperatures to return to his vehicle.

7.  The Powell Expedition

The Powell Expedition of 1869 was the first group of Americans to boat through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River.  They encountered innumerable near-disasters and unbelievable hardships.  While three men who abandoned the expedition tragically died, the remaining explorers survived an unprecedented journey that lasted for over 3 months, under the most strenuous conditions imaginable.

Length:

Water: There is typically water available at Santa Maria Spring about 2 miles below the rim, but don’t count on it, especially during the hot season, unless you have confirmed water reports from the Backcountry Information Center.  Perennial water can be found at Hermit Creek and The River, but since the creek is permanent between the camp and the rapids avoid the silty River water and filter creek water instead.

Campsites: The Hermit use area has only two designated camping options and both of them are near the end of the trail so plan accordingly.  The first sites are at the trail junction with the creek and feature a nice ledge overhang, a metal pole for hanging food, and a backcountry composting toilet.  The second site is about a mile and a half further downstream near the confluence of Hermit Creek and The River.

Reflections and Attractions: The Hermit Trail offers an exciting hike with breathtaking panoramic views. The resthouse at Santa Maria Springs is a great place to take a shaded break, don’t forget to sign the logbook. Lookout and Breezy Points are appropriately named. There is much to explore and see from the Hermit Creek camp area. Don’t miss the stroll through Hermit Narrows to the impressive sight of Hermit Rapids.

Warnings and Musings: There is no camping between Hermit Creek and the rim, so whether you’re ascending or descending prepare for a long day of hiking. Your legs will feel the burn of the Cathedral Stairs and the long sloping traverse down to the Tonto.  Be alert for critters in the Hermit Creek camp and store your food accordingly.

The Old Man, Jack, Mantis and I are descending the Hermit Trail. I was here doing the Hermit-Boucher loop only three weeks ago and there is a lot more snow and ice this time. Treacherous, slippery conditions are frequent all the way to Santa Maria Spring. Lookout Point is becoming a lunch stop tradition. Below the Cathedral Stairs, Mantis points out a herd of mule deer down on the Tonto.

At the Tonto Trail junction I chat with a college guy who’s part of a seven person work crew. They’re on a week long tamarisk removal project. Cool way to spend part of winter break. I hope The Canyon wins the battle against that loathsome invasive species. We file into Hermit Creek right at sundown, and set up Camp 1 downstream from the work crew.

Day 2 – Hermit Creek to Granite Rapids:

Mantis wakes up early and is the only one to day-hike down to Hermit Rapids. He returns as we’re packing up and then we head east on the Tonto Trail. Below the first minor saddle east of the Tonto-Hermit junction I point out four mule deer to the Old Man. Jack and I stop at the next saddle east to have lunch and dry out our things. It seems heavy morning frost may be a problem on this trip.

From here we trek south into Monument Canyon. The Old Man is waiting at the hoodoo that is this canyon’s namesake.

There is plenty of water flowing in Monument Creek just below where the trail crosses the canyon. As I walk downstream though the water disappears, only to resurface again just south of the confluence with The River. I find Mantis camped on a sand dune above Granite Rapids. The rapids themselves are impressive, though not quite as big as Hermit one side canyon down River. There are two day-hikers leaving for their camp back upstream. After that we have the whole beach to ourselves.

I start setting up camp but there’s a problem. One of those day-hiking assholes took a shit in my site. Mantis is further to the west, so I move my Camp 2 above him. We have the whole afternoon to lounge and I somewhat regret not bringing my fishing gear. As a consolation, The River conditions for angling are as bad as they were three weeks ago. The current is still very swift and more winter storms are responsible for the murky water that looks too much like the hot cocoa I had with breakfast.

At the head of Granite Rapids I lounge with my blues harp for a spell. Mantis strolls up and points out a California condor overhead.

Day 3 – Granite Rapids & Monument Creek to Salt Creek:

Another cold morning staggers our departure times, but we all meet up out on the Tonto just west of Cedar Spring. Again we set out everything to dry and have lunch.

A Park Service helicopter flies directly over us, drops down into the Inner Gorge, hovering about a hundred feet above Granite Rapids. Attached beneath the chopper is a line with some sort of apparatus that is being dipped into the water. Then it regains altitude, shifts locations every so often, and just hovers. This process is repeated and lasts for at least twenty minutes. A total nuisance to our Canyon solitude, I hope it was for worthwhile research.

The trek continues along the Tonto and south into Salt Creek, where we set up Camp 3. This campsite only allows one small group for a good reason, there’s barely enough room for us. Four dudes and four tents, we’re morons. My tent is on a slope right next to the dry creek bed.

Mantis and I explore the Salt Creek drainage downstream. At the Tonto crossing there’s no water, but it resurfaces near the base of the Tapeats. There are some tricky down-climbs I would not try without Mantis present. I am familiar with this type of side canyon and predict we will reach an impassable waterfall. We round one final bend where the canyon really narrows and the gorge beyond drops away out of sight. Mantis, with all of his climbing experience, walks up to the ledge casually and examines the view. I crawl on my stomach and look down upon what I can only describe to him as a “shit your pants plunge.” He estimates it as a 350 foot near vertical fall, abbreviated only by a couple small ledges jutting outward from the cliff face.

The water in Horn Creek, tomorrow’s camp, is potentially contaminated by an abandoned uranium mine on the South Rim. My plan has been to load up on enough clean water here to skip Horn Creek, and refill further east at Indian Garden. My plan has one major flaw. I have forgotten that the water in Salt Creek is also potentially contaminated. Unfortunately, I remember after we’ve been drinking filtered Salt Creek water the whole afternoon. So what the hell, we’ll drink dirty water for the next two days. I tell the guys about my snafu. Jack says he’d been thinking about telling us that we’re glowing green. Then he says he’s going down to the creek to filter more water at a place that has the highest grade uranium possible.

During the night critters run around in the creek bed below me and an owl keeps us company for hours.

Day 4 – Salt Creek to Horn Creek:

I leave last again, and as custom we stop between side canyons up on the Tonto to dry out and have lunch. Old Man and Jack are kind of loafing, so Mantis leaves and I catch up with him because he stops for twenty minutes watching something. Finally I get close enough to see he’s admiring four mule deer very close to the trail, including one four point buck. As we round south into Horn Creek, the remnants of Orphan Mine come into view, perched audaciously atop the brink of the South Rim. It’s all that’s left to thank for the uranium and alpha radiation detected in sampling of this watershed.

We make Camp 4 on the east bank of Horn Creek and seasonal water is flowing. Exploration downstream today is sans Mantis. My travels are cut even shorter than yesterday by another impassable waterfall. This time it’s only about thirty feet and there’s probably a bypass, but I don’t feel like looking for it. Instead I venture upstream near the base of the Redwall for a harp jam. Something knocks a small rock slide loose in a minor side drainage to the southeast.

I get back to camp for cocktail hour and cigars with Mantis and the Old Man. Jack is returning from a walk out on the Tonto to stretch his muscles. When he’s close enough to see, we offer him a simultaneous triple moon, a glorious sight. Jack returns the favor. It is very cold in Camp 4 as we settle in for the 2008 Inaugural Canyon Hearts Tournament. In a stunning comeback the Old Man wins … as usual. He probably cheated somehow … as usual. Now we shall have to put up with his bragging rights for awhile.

Day 5 – Horn Creek to Bright Angel Trailhead:

I’m not much of a morning person when it’s this cold so I wake up last. As I roll out of my frosty tent the Old Man is already starting the hike out of The Canyon. I see several mule deer along the Tonto near Indian Garden. When I reach the South Rim at Bright Angel Trailhead, Jack greets me with an ice cold bottle of Miller High Life.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

10. South Kaibab

While hiking Grand Canyon is all relative, this trail is one of the easiest at about 7 miles in length.  It has an elevation loss+gain of approximately 9,600 feet. This is a well maintained corridor trail, just watch out for mule droppings.

9. South Bass

This trail, at nearly 8 miles and 8,800 feet of elevation loss+gain, may feature the longest and most difficult drive to the trailhead. By Grand Canyon standards, the steep sections of this trail are short and few between.

8. New Hance

The only thing keeping this trail from lower on the list is its brevity, at 6.5 miles it is the shortest Rim-to-River trail. But at 8,900 feet of elevation loss+gain, your knees will feel the burn of 700 feet of elevation per mile. The section between the South Rim and Coronado Saddle is particularly steep.

7. North Kaibab

The only thing keeping this trail from higher on the list is its length, at 14 miles it’s one of Grand Canyon’s longest. This well maintained corridor trail features 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain, but the vast majority of that steepness occurs in the first half. The second half of trail between Cottonwood Campground and Bright Angel Campground is more a stroll than a hike.

6. Hermit

This trail is almost 10 miles long and has an elevation loss+gain of 8,700 feet. While unmaintained, it is still in good condition. Many a Grand Canyon backpacker has found descending and/or ascending the Cathedral Stairs an exhausting proposition.

5. Tanner

What makes this 9 mile trail with 9,300 feet of elevation loss+gain particularly difficult is the complete lack of water, unless you’re lucky enough to be hiking during or right after a storm. The section between the Rim and 75-Mile Saddle is steep, and the stretch from atop the Redwall to the Colorado River is vastly bereft of shade.

4. Boucher

This trailhead is technically located beneath the Rim in Hermit Basin. However, if you plan to hike it all the way to the bottom, the distance from Hermit Trailhead is 10.5 miles. There is an elevation loss+gain of 8,500 feet. The lack of consistent switchbacks through the Supai and Redwall layers make this trail painfully steep.

3. Thunder River

The distance from this remote North Rim trailhead to the Colorado River is 14 miles. Round trip from Indian Hollow contains 8,600 feet of elevation loss+gain. The Esplanade traverse is the only longer portion of this trail that isn’t strenuous. When departing from the Bill Hall Trailhead, this hike can be shortened by about 3 miles.

2. North Bass

Only the most experienced, determined, and physically fit hikers will finish this 13.5 mile hike in 1 day. This trail is very challenging and features many sections that are in poor condition. On the bright side, solitude and perennial water near the halfway point can ease the struggles of this difficult trek.

1. Nankoweap

Ask any veteran Grand Canyon backpacker, and the majority will answer that this is the most difficult Rim-to-River trail. Depending on your choice of trailhead, this hike is about 14 miles long and experiences roughly 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain. The northern trailhead actually has a substantial elevation gain before even reaching the Park boundary. There are lengthy and laborious steep segments, and the Supai traverse is demanding. Just to spice it up, there is no reliable perennial water until reaching Nankoweap Creek, after over 10 fatiguing miles of hiking.