To read the trip report from these photos click here.

On an intensely hot day in July of 1959, teenager John Owens and two companions hiked down Tanner Trail.  Due to a lethal combination of heat exhaustion, dehydration, and failing judgment his two hiking partners died; one from falling off a cliff and the other from heat stroke.  At Tanner Beach, Owens built a crude driftwood raft and floated down the Colorado River for the next 4 days, ending up on a sandbar near Neville Rapids.  Owens survived for the next few days on cactus pulp and mesquite beans, meanwhile constructing a massive stone landmark that aerial searchers spotted.  He was rescued barely alive by helicopter.

2.  Woman Takes Wrong Turn in Havasu Canyon

Linda Fortney decided to visit the famous waterfalls of Havasu Canyon on a scorching summer day in 1975.  She took a wrong turn and began hiking in the opposite direction of the falls up Cataract Canyon, more than ten miles from the falls and the village of Supai.  Luckily, she found an ephemeral spring with just barely enough flow to avoid dehydration.  Lost, scared, and unwilling to venture far from the spring, she survived for 18 days until Havasupai Indians tracked and rescued her.

3.  Airmen Bail Out of Plane Over GC

During World War II, three air force crewmen were forced to bail out of a plane in flight over Grand Canyon.  The pilot ordered the evacuation on a false alarm and eventually landed safely, but the crew parachuted into the area of Tuna Creek, a remote side canyon.  At the time virtually no known route existed to reach Tuna Creek within the labyrinth of Grand Canyon.  The injured airmen survived on airdrop rations for a week before searchers finally forged a route in and rescued them.

4.  Two Men Swim the Colorado River Through GC

In 1955, Bill Beer and John Daggett dreamed up the idea of being the first people to swim the Colorado River through Grand Canyon.  Their dream, albeit illegal, became a reality.  Outfitted with swimming fins, wetsuits, and waterproof gear sacks they survived the entire run; taking 26 days to complete such a dramatic and trying ordeal.  Bill Beer chronicled their gutsy journey in his book, “We Swam the Grand Canyon:  the True Story of a Cheap Vacation That Got a Little Out of Hand”.

5.  Failed Shortcut Nearly Fatal

Like many young men of his generation, Charles Myers, a college student from New York, turned his back on the east coast throngs and headed west in 1975, eventually arriving at Grand Canyon.  He chose to backpack the Hermit Trail during the hottest time of the year, and did so decidedly unprepared.  When his supply of food ran out on the 1^st day he tried to hike out using an off-trail shortcut, falling off a ledge in the process resulting in severe injuries.  After burning his clothes and possessions in a futile attempt to secure help, Myers spent 10 painful days stumbling around Hermit Creek before he was found and rescued.

6.  GC Hiking Legend’s Near Escape

Harvey Butchart, the undisputed all-time king of Grand Canyon backcountry hiking, got himself into a fair share of close calls and precarious situations during his decades of experience below the rim.  Perhaps none were more serious than his attempt to rope climb back up a cliff in the Saddle Canyon area.  Butchart, at over 60 years of age, became stuck upside down while still attached to the rope.  After a lengthy struggle he finally freed himself from the rope, only to face more than 30 straight hours of winter hiking in near freezing temperatures to return to his vehicle.

7.  The Powell Expedition

The Powell Expedition of 1869 was the first group of Americans to boat through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River.  They encountered innumerable near-disasters and unbelievable hardships.  While three men who abandoned the expedition tragically died, the remaining explorers survived an unprecedented journey that lasted for over 3 months, under the most strenuous conditions imaginable.

Length:

Water: Perennial sources along or near the West Tonto Trail include Indian Garden, Monument Creek, Hermit Creek, Boucher Creek, Slate Creek, and the Colorado River. Seasonal water sources along or near this trail include Horn Creek, Salt Creek, Cedar Spring, Sapphire Canyon, Turquoise Canyon, Ruby Canyon, Serpentine Canyon, and Bass Canyon. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center prior to a trek for water reports.

Campsites: There is no camping between Horn Creek and Indian Garden. Proceeding west there is only designated camping at Horn Creek, Salt Creek, Cedar Spring, Monument Creek, Granite Rapids, Hermit Creek, and Hermit Rapids. West of Hermit Canyon all the way to Bass Canyon is designated at-large camping.  Here you will find camps in nearly every side-canyon and along the Tonto platform in between side-canyons.

Reflections and Attractions: There is so much to do and see along this trail it’s hard to know where to start.  All of the highlights certainly can’t be experienced in just one trip. Views along the entire length are spectacular, especially along the platforms between side-canyons. Every side-canyon has great opportunities for exploration, and many supply access to The River (which can be handy in an emergency). A few of our favorite haunts along this trek include Monument Creek, Hermit Creek, Boucher Creek, Sapphire Canyon, and Ruby Canyon.

Warnings and Musings: The section of this trail between Boucher Creek and Bass Canyon is rugged and remote. Keep this in mind as any rescue or evacuation you may need could take a long time. The trail is also indistinct in places, so much so that you will almost certainly lose the trail at least briefly a couple times, but if you have the proper GC routefinding experience it shouldn’t be a problem. This trail can be deadly during the hot season, so plan and hike accordingly. Part of this trail falls outside the “no fly zone” and you may be treated to an annoying procession of helicopters throughout the day.

Length:

Water: There is typically water available at Santa Maria Spring about 2 miles below the rim, but don’t count on it, especially during the hot season, unless you have confirmed water reports from the Backcountry Information Center.  Perennial water can be found at Hermit Creek and The River, but since the creek is permanent between the camp and the rapids avoid the silty River water and filter creek water instead.

Campsites: The Hermit use area has only two designated camping options and both of them are near the end of the trail so plan accordingly.  The first sites are at the trail junction with the creek and feature a nice ledge overhang, a metal pole for hanging food, and a backcountry composting toilet.  The second site is about a mile and a half further downstream near the confluence of Hermit Creek and The River.

Reflections and Attractions: The Hermit Trail offers an exciting hike with breathtaking panoramic views. The resthouse at Santa Maria Springs is a great place to take a shaded break, don’t forget to sign the logbook. Lookout and Breezy Points are appropriately named. There is much to explore and see from the Hermit Creek camp area. Don’t miss the stroll through Hermit Narrows to the impressive sight of Hermit Rapids.

Warnings and Musings: There is no camping between Hermit Creek and the rim, so whether you’re ascending or descending prepare for a long day of hiking. Your legs will feel the burn of the Cathedral Stairs and the long sloping traverse down to the Tonto.  Be alert for critters in the Hermit Creek camp and store your food accordingly.

After snapping a few photos from Hermit’s Rest; Kaiser, D.K., and I start switchbacking down through the Coconino formation to the junction with Boucher Trail. There is some patchy snow and ice, but nothing treacherous. Kaiser finds the fossilized reptilian footprints near the trail that are apparently over 250 million years old. We reach Hermit Basin after about an hour. I gaze across the gorge cut by Hermit Creek, looking for any hint of the Boucher Trail along this side canyon’s west arm. We will be returning that way in a few days, but The Canyon does not give up its secrets so easily.

We stop to register in the logbook at Santa Maria Spring, and continue to Lookout Point for lunch. Another short rest at Breezy Point, and then we’re descending the Cathedral Stairs to the junction with the Tonto Trail. From here it’s a brief walk west to the camp at Hermit Creek, which we have all to ourselves.  The perennial waters of this creek make it a charming place; there is a small waterfall right below camp.

It’s a pretty cold night so after dinner some warm drinks are a welcome refreshment. Kaiser is notoriously fearful of whiskey, but thanks to us he discovers that it can be damn good when cut with hot water as both a cocktail and painkiller. D.K. crashes out early, but Kaiser and I stay up late since tomorrow is an easy day. Our reward is the largest meteor shower I’ve ever seen in The Canyon on a perfectly clear night.

Day 2 – Hermit Creek to Hermit Rapids:

I wake before the others, but we all slept in. It’s very cold this morning. We’re in no rush so I explore upstream for awhile and find a nice spot for a blues harp jam. Eventually we’re packed and leaving by late morning. The Hermit Creek Narrows just below camp are an exciting passage through the Tapeats.

After less than an hour of trekking downstream the roar of The River precedes our arrival at Hermit Rapids. The water is as muddy red as I can ever remember on account of heavy winter storms last week. These rapids give birth to waves that are simply massive. We eat lunch right at the head of Hermit Rapids, awestruck by the power of The River.

We scout both sides of Hermit Creek and settle camp on a high sand dune above the rapids. There is an excellent view of The River, and we’re still far enough away from the thundering water that we can actually hear each other talk.

A small private group of two rafts comes shooting down the rapids. A woman on the first raft is literally screaming her ass off as they fly over the waves. The second raft gets slammed on entry and nearly tips as they’re spun around backwards, then finishes the rapids at the mercy of the current. We wave but they never acknowledge our presence.

We spend the rest of the afternoon fishing without any luck. The volume, velocity, and murkiness of the water make conditions here far from ideal. Gusting winds make for a cold night.

Day 3 – Hermit Rapids to Boucher Creek:

I wake before the others around 7 am. We are slow to warm up and don’t leave The River until three hours later. The hike back upstream to Camp 1 seems quicker sticking to the creek bed. We stop to pump some water for the trek over to Boucher Creek.

A short climb and we regain the Tonto, bearing north below Columbus Point. As we round the point south into Travertine Canyon the views up and down River are stunning, and there’s also a stretch with enough exposure to gain my undivided attention.

Along the east arm of Travertine Canyon we stop for lunch. We have bad timing as the energizing sunlight quickly vanishes behind the Redwall southwest of us. It’s astonishing how quickly the temperature plummets, and we hit the trail to warm up.

We detour around to the west arm and approach the minor saddle to Boucher Canyon. D.K. is on point and yells for us to come up quick. Kaiser and I jog up just barely in time for a three second glimpse at the head of a retreating desert bighorn ram with a ¾ curl. D.K. inadvertently spooked him out of sight around the point north of the saddle. Damn, that was great, but tantalizingly brief.

The trek continues southwest into Boucher Canyon. After only a few minutes, a second bighorn trots across the trail right in front of us. Wow! This is the closest encounter I’ve had with a bighorn in The Canyon and I couldn’t be more excited. I give him a whistle and he stops to inspect us with a few grunts. D.K. dubs him “Grandpa” based on an impressive full curl. As we climb south towards the Boucher Trail junction for the next half hour he stays just ahead of us, constantly turning to check our progress.

The bighorn’s climbing prowess is unmatched by any other large animal in The Canyon. At the Boucher Trail junction he’s suddenly hundreds of feet above us on a steep cliff near the Redwall.

From here there’s an ominous glimpse of the ascent for tomorrow. We take a break to discuss tonight’s camp. The tentative plan has been continuing to Boucher Rapids. However, we’re all tired and doubtful of the fishing, so the descent to Boucher Creek is the end of our hike.

Day 4 – Boucher Creek to overlook below Yuma Point:

We try to get an early start today, but there’s a slight delay. Kaiser has suffered the first equipment failure of the trip. At some point during the night his hydration bladder cracked and leaked, possibly from a partial freeze. Now it’s leaking everywhere and worthless. This could be a problem; we still have 1½ days of hiking and the closest water we are expecting to find is at Dripping Springs, about seven miles away. Kaiser improvises a plastic dry-bag for water storage and fills it with a couple quarts.

Of all the South Rim trails, Boucher is the most difficult to ascend. The climb out of Boucher Canyon and up through the Redwall is an ass-kicker. A lack of consistent switchbacks makes it incredibly steep. Despite the intensity of the trek, we make decent time and stop for an early lunch above the Redwall at Whites Butte saddle. Kaiser discovers his makeshift water storage has leaked in his backpack. He starts drying things out, and we agree to start rationing the rest of our water.

The hard work is not over yet. We have crossed over to the west arm of upper Travertine Canyon. There is a brief level traverse to the southern end of the canyon, and then another grueling ascent through the Supai. Near the top of this canyon there is a short hand and toe climb, after which we stop for a rest.

From here it’s a quick stroll around the corner to the eastern campsites on the overlook below Yuma Point. Kaiser is in luck, there are some partially frozen potholes so we don’t need to worry about water anymore. We set up Camp 4 and the views up and down Canyon from here are absolutely ridiculous. There are some ferocious wind gusts during the night.

Day 5 – Overlook below Yuma Point to Hermit Trailhead:

What a beautiful sunrise! This is such a great campsite and I’m disappointed that we have to leave. We still have plenty of water, so there’s no need to stop at Dripping Springs. Back in Hermit Basin we see people again for the first time since the rafting party on Day 2. We get back to Hermit’s Rest for a round of cold beers.

To see more photos from this trip click here.

The Old Man, Jack, Mantis and I are descending the Hermit Trail. I was here doing the Hermit-Boucher loop only three weeks ago and there is a lot more snow and ice this time. Treacherous, slippery conditions are frequent all the way to Santa Maria Spring. Lookout Point is becoming a lunch stop tradition. Below the Cathedral Stairs, Mantis points out a herd of mule deer down on the Tonto.

At the Tonto Trail junction I chat with a college guy who’s part of a seven person work crew. They’re on a week long tamarisk removal project. Cool way to spend part of winter break. I hope The Canyon wins the battle against that loathsome invasive species. We file into Hermit Creek right at sundown, and set up Camp 1 downstream from the work crew.

Day 2 – Hermit Creek to Granite Rapids:

Mantis wakes up early and is the only one to day-hike down to Hermit Rapids. He returns as we’re packing up and then we head east on the Tonto Trail. Below the first minor saddle east of the Tonto-Hermit junction I point out four mule deer to the Old Man. Jack and I stop at the next saddle east to have lunch and dry out our things. It seems heavy morning frost may be a problem on this trip.

From here we trek south into Monument Canyon. The Old Man is waiting at the hoodoo that is this canyon’s namesake.

There is plenty of water flowing in Monument Creek just below where the trail crosses the canyon. As I walk downstream though the water disappears, only to resurface again just south of the confluence with The River. I find Mantis camped on a sand dune above Granite Rapids. The rapids themselves are impressive, though not quite as big as Hermit one side canyon down River. There are two day-hikers leaving for their camp back upstream. After that we have the whole beach to ourselves.

I start setting up camp but there’s a problem. One of those day-hiking assholes took a shit in my site. Mantis is further to the west, so I move my Camp 2 above him. We have the whole afternoon to lounge and I somewhat regret not bringing my fishing gear. As a consolation, The River conditions for angling are as bad as they were three weeks ago. The current is still very swift and more winter storms are responsible for the murky water that looks too much like the hot cocoa I had with breakfast.

At the head of Granite Rapids I lounge with my blues harp for a spell. Mantis strolls up and points out a California condor overhead.

Day 3 – Granite Rapids & Monument Creek to Salt Creek:

Another cold morning staggers our departure times, but we all meet up out on the Tonto just west of Cedar Spring. Again we set out everything to dry and have lunch.

A Park Service helicopter flies directly over us, drops down into the Inner Gorge, hovering about a hundred feet above Granite Rapids. Attached beneath the chopper is a line with some sort of apparatus that is being dipped into the water. Then it regains altitude, shifts locations every so often, and just hovers. This process is repeated and lasts for at least twenty minutes. A total nuisance to our Canyon solitude, I hope it was for worthwhile research.

The trek continues along the Tonto and south into Salt Creek, where we set up Camp 3. This campsite only allows one small group for a good reason, there’s barely enough room for us. Four dudes and four tents, we’re morons. My tent is on a slope right next to the dry creek bed.

Mantis and I explore the Salt Creek drainage downstream. At the Tonto crossing there’s no water, but it resurfaces near the base of the Tapeats. There are some tricky down-climbs I would not try without Mantis present. I am familiar with this type of side canyon and predict we will reach an impassable waterfall. We round one final bend where the canyon really narrows and the gorge beyond drops away out of sight. Mantis, with all of his climbing experience, walks up to the ledge casually and examines the view. I crawl on my stomach and look down upon what I can only describe to him as a “shit your pants plunge.” He estimates it as a 350 foot near vertical fall, abbreviated only by a couple small ledges jutting outward from the cliff face.

The water in Horn Creek, tomorrow’s camp, is potentially contaminated by an abandoned uranium mine on the South Rim. My plan has been to load up on enough clean water here to skip Horn Creek, and refill further east at Indian Garden. My plan has one major flaw. I have forgotten that the water in Salt Creek is also potentially contaminated. Unfortunately, I remember after we’ve been drinking filtered Salt Creek water the whole afternoon. So what the hell, we’ll drink dirty water for the next two days. I tell the guys about my snafu. Jack says he’d been thinking about telling us that we’re glowing green. Then he says he’s going down to the creek to filter more water at a place that has the highest grade uranium possible.

During the night critters run around in the creek bed below me and an owl keeps us company for hours.

Day 4 – Salt Creek to Horn Creek:

I leave last again, and as custom we stop between side canyons up on the Tonto to dry out and have lunch. Old Man and Jack are kind of loafing, so Mantis leaves and I catch up with him because he stops for twenty minutes watching something. Finally I get close enough to see he’s admiring four mule deer very close to the trail, including one four point buck. As we round south into Horn Creek, the remnants of Orphan Mine come into view, perched audaciously atop the brink of the South Rim. It’s all that’s left to thank for the uranium and alpha radiation detected in sampling of this watershed.

We make Camp 4 on the east bank of Horn Creek and seasonal water is flowing. Exploration downstream today is sans Mantis. My travels are cut even shorter than yesterday by another impassable waterfall. This time it’s only about thirty feet and there’s probably a bypass, but I don’t feel like looking for it. Instead I venture upstream near the base of the Redwall for a harp jam. Something knocks a small rock slide loose in a minor side drainage to the southeast.

I get back to camp for cocktail hour and cigars with Mantis and the Old Man. Jack is returning from a walk out on the Tonto to stretch his muscles. When he’s close enough to see, we offer him a simultaneous triple moon, a glorious sight. Jack returns the favor. It is very cold in Camp 4 as we settle in for the 2008 Inaugural Canyon Hearts Tournament. In a stunning comeback the Old Man wins … as usual. He probably cheated somehow … as usual. Now we shall have to put up with his bragging rights for awhile.

Day 5 – Horn Creek to Bright Angel Trailhead:

I’m not much of a morning person when it’s this cold so I wake up last. As I roll out of my frosty tent the Old Man is already starting the hike out of The Canyon. I see several mule deer along the Tonto near Indian Garden. When I reach the South Rim at Bright Angel Trailhead, Jack greets me with an ice cold bottle of Miller High Life.

To see more photos from this trip click here.