Length:

Water: Perennial water sources along the East Tonto Trail are the Colorado River, Hance Creek, Page Spring, Grapevine Spring, Burro Spring, Pipe Spring, and Indian Garden Campground. Seasonal water sources can be found in Red Canyon, Cottonwood Creek, Boulder Canyon, Lonetree Canyon, and Cremation Canyon. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for water reports before a trip.

Campsites: There is no camping allowed on the trail from between Indian Garden Campground to about a half mile east of South Kaibab Trail.  The remaining use areas for this trail have at-large camping. Campsites are plentiful and can be found in nearly every side-canyon and on the Tonto platform between side-canyons.

Reflections and Attractions: Relative to other GC trails, the East Tonto offers some of the easier hiking to be found in this natural wonderland. Don’t miss the bypass detour as you round into Mineral Canyon from the east, otherwise you’ll have to negotiate the ledge. The Hance Creek area is one of our favorite spots in GC. Grapevine Canyon goes on forever and is one of the longest south rim side-canyons. All of the side-canyons along this area offer excellent exploring opportunities, and fantastic views of the numerous buttes across the inner gorge. Keep your eyes peeled for desert bighorns when trekking this trail.

Warnings and Musings: If you insist on hiking this trail during the summer don’t be foolish about it. Have plenty of water, don’t pass up any midday shade and hike only in the cooler early morning and evening hours. By combining other GC trails, the East Tonto Trail is a scenic thru-way for extended point-to-point or loop trips. The best season to be on this trail is late winter or early spring, as water will be less of an issue.

Length:

Water: There is no water along the trail and only limited post-storm pothole availability on Horseshoe Mesa. Page Spring (also known as Miner’s Spring) is perennial below the east neck of Horseshoe Mesa. Cottonwood Creek below the west side of the mesa has seasonal water.

Campsites: There is no camping along the trail. Horseshoe Mesa has designated campsites only. If the East Tonto Trail is your destination, camping is at-large.

Reflections and Attractions: The Grandview Trail is a great introduction to non-corridor hiking in GC. The trailhead at Grandview Point has the highest elevation of any South Rim trail. There are numerous highlights upon reaching Horseshoe Mesa including mining relics, Cave of the Domes, and perhaps the most inspirational backcountry toilet anywhere. The ends of both the west and east arms of the mesa sport spectacular views.

Warnings and Musings: Hiking this trail in icy winter conditions can be treacherous, even with crampons. The mining tunnels in the area such as Last Chance Mine are closed to visitation for public safety and to protect bat habitat.

As Jack and I finish packing at Grandview Point a tourist passes by and asks why we aren’t hiking Bright Angel.  My first thought is, “Dude, you have no idea how many different answers I have to that question.”  Instead I mumble something about fewer people and continue preparations.

Two heavy winter storms have passed through in the last week and there is a lot of leftover snow and ice on the upper parts of Grandview Trail.  The going is slow as our footsteps repeatedly plunge through heavy snow up to our knees in places.  One switchback has a protruding boulder jutting out over a section of trail that has become very narrow on account of the snow; cautious sidestepping gets us past this obstacle.  I am using new Microspikes on my boots and they are a tremendous help for some of the steep, icy sections of trail.  Just below the Hance/Cottonwood saddle I hear a thunderous rockfall somewhere in the Redwall layer below.

This is the most snow and ice I’ve ever hiked through on Grandview Trail and it’s a relief to finally remove crampons just above Horseshoe Mesa. We stop for lunch on the mesa and inspect what’s left of the old mining cabin.

From here we descend the west side of Horseshoe Mesa. Near the base of the Redwall I see a solo hiker maybe half a mile away on our trail, heading our direction, and approaching the bed of the easternmost arm of Cottonwood Creek. The hiker continues to stop every few paces and looks around, presumably also at us. When we reach the creek bed I assume the hiker will pass us any moment, but we never see him (or her) again.

Don’t know where that hiker went but there is nobody in any of the Cottonwood Creek sites, so we apparently have the creek all to ourselves.  We setup in the same place we did almost three years ago, on the east side of the creek above the Tonto junction.

Day 2 – Cottonwood Creek to Hance Creek:

I’m up at the faintest first light around 6:30, and before Jack which is rare, then down to the creek to filter some water for the day’s hike. Back in camp Jack says he saw a skunk in the middle of the night during nature’s call.

As we begin our loop below Horseshoe Mesa along the Tonto Trail I am excited about the trail ahead. These five miles to Hance Creek are new territory for me and my last untraveled stretch below the South Rim between Boucher Creek and Palisades Creek. As we ascend through the Tapeats, Jack points out a nicer campsite downstream of the Tonto Trail junction.

It’s good to be back on the Tonto, and contouring around the west arm of Horseshoe Mesa is a breeze. We take a short break in the main drainage beneath the two arms of the mesa and I spot two mule deer on a slope to the west of us.

Continuing east we reach the crest of a low saddle near the Tonto-level foot of Hance Creek Canyon. I quickly stop and point out another herd of mule deer to Jack, but within seconds a closer inspection reveals it is a large herd of desert bighorns. Counting out eight bighorns, it is the largest herd I have seen in The Canyon. We admire them for some time before they finally spook off over a ridge in the distance.

We decide to stop for lunch here at a nearby rock outcropping. There are many bighorn tracks and sign around, indicating this place is probably frequented by the herd we just witnessed. Some of our gear is frost dampened from this morning so we lay things out to dry.

After lunch the trek continues as we swing southward along the Tonto into Hance Creek Canyon. Near the halfway point of this side canyon I spot the shortcut down into the bottom through a break in the Tapeats that I have heard about. A brief scout by Jack reveals there are some spotty cairns and faint game trails, so this route definitely goes, good to know for future exploration reference.

Eventually we make our way down to Hance Creek and find we have camp to ourselves again, so we set up downstream below a large cottonwood, still keeping in line with the necessary snoring buffer zone. There’s still time for a day-hike so we head upstream. The creek quickly vanishes into subsurface flow and in less than an hour we are at the major east/west fork of Hance Creek.

There is a large Redwall cave or cavern perhaps a half mile away in the east fork, and the west fork looks appealing for further exploration, but we are running out of daylight to return so we head back to camp.

Day 3 – Hance Creek to Horseshoe Mesa:

The trek back up to Horseshoe Mesa is familiar ground for us, so we make good time up to Page Spring. Stop here for the last chance to filter some water before reaching our dry camp up on the mesa.

Continuing up the Redwall we both stop briefly at Last Chance Mine, which has been closed to visitation since the last time I passed through. Apparently some bats have moved in that the Park Service wish to remain undisturbed.

Back atop the mesa, there is no one in camp again, a welcomed trip long theme. We grub some lunch and then head out for another day-hike. First stop, a return visit to Cave of the Domes where we reacquaint ourselves. Since we’ve also previously been out to the west arm of the mesa, the next leg on our hike is out to the east arm, but to save time we contour around the north side of Horseshoe Mesa Butte until we link up with the east arm path.

The trail is faint in places out to the edge, but the direction and flow of travel is obvious. The end of the east arm affords some outstanding Canyon views, from west to east the most prominent features: Zoroaster and Brahma Temples, Angel’s Gate, Wotan’s Throne, and last but certainly not least Vishnu Temple. Wish I could sit here a lot longer.

Back in camp we expected a very cold night, but some moderate cloud cover keeps the temperature reasonably above freezing. The weather’s been about as good as you could hope for in December on this trip.

Day 4 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

As we leave the mesa on our return to the rim we encounter another hiker for the first time since the vanishing hiker of Day 1. He has day-hiked down here, using snowshoes for most of the trail, which has thankfully padded down much of the snow for our ascent.

We departed at staggered times and I catch back up to Jack below the Hance/Cottonwood saddle where we take short breaks. The rest of the trek out still has lots of snow and some slippery sections, but we make good time to the cold beers that await us at the trailhead parking area.

The original itinerary for this trip was to exit via Horseshoe Mesa. However, landslides have seriously damaged the Grandview Trail, and the Service is prompted to officially change our plan. The new hike will be from Red Canyon to Hance Creek and back.

From the trailhead it is a slow, jittery descent to below the Coronado Butte saddle. Pablo is suffering from some diabetic complications so we take a break at the Redwall overlook.

The traverse around the debris field towards the Redwall is somewhat tedious. An hour since the last break, D.K. and I wait for Pablo who is obviously struggling. It takes him a half hour to catch up, and it’s getting late. We have a decision to make, although it’s obvious this whole trip is probably screwed. Pablo’s in no shape to continue, so in the interest of safety we backtrack to a dry campsite south of the overlook. There is a pothole near camp with about two quarts of water that we take advantage of. Winds are howling all night.

Day 2 – Above Redwall in Red Canyon to New Hance Trailhead:

Our trip has been derailed so we sleep in, and then lethargically prepare for an assault on the rim that nobody is anxious to complete. The ascent through the Supai and Coconino is painfully steep. In my opinion and in terms of difficulty ascending, New Hance is second only to Boucher of all the South Rim trails.

We spend the night near Flagstaff, thankfully under a roof, and take some solace for not being in The Canyon as a huge snowstorm rolls through northern Arizona.

Many of my recent Canyon winter trips have been disrupted or cancelled by shitty weather. Hiking companions were beginning to think I’m cursed. Thankfully there’s no snow anywhere as the four of us descend Grandview Trail late morning. The weather report looks so surprisingly good in fact, that none of us even bring tents. At Horseshoe Mesa, Jack and the Old Man continue down the Redwall descent while I take Mantis to the Cave of the Domes.

We don’t really have the time to explore this cave properly, venturing only several hundred feet. The naming of the cave is obvious; each new chamber has a cathedral-shaped dome for a ceiling. It’s time to turn around when the crawl spaces get tighter than I’m comfortable with sans safety equipment. Back at the entrance we can see the Old Man and Jack making their way into the east arm of Cottonwood Creek, about 1,200 feet below us.

Mantis’ knees are bumming, but eventually we all meet up in camp next to the creek. Water will probably be flowing here for about another month or so. Snoring buffer zones are created so Mantis and I sleep away from the snorting old guys. It takes me a long time to fall asleep, too excited gazing at stars and looking forward to the days to come.

Day 2 – Cottonwood Creek to west arm of Grapevine Creek:

We’re up and trekking along the Tonto Trail early. Around the point as we head west away from Cottonwood Creek, there are some sections where a slip to the right could be a fatal mistake. Back on more stable ground we stop for a break. Two Canyon vets hike in from the west doing our trip in reverse. They stop to chat for awhile and break out some old school plastic and aluminum folding chairs strapped to their packs. They look comfy, but must be a bitch to carry.

We continue south into Grapevine Canyon, one of the longest side canyons along the entire South Rim. About halfway along the eastern arm we stop for lunch at Grapevine Spring. This water source is considered to be perennial, but based on appearance I might not rely on it in late summer during the driest of years.

The trail crosses Grapevine Canyon at the southern bend where there is a fork. There is already a small group in the east arm where Grapevine Creek is still flowing. Mantis and I scout the west arm. No flowing water here, but plenty of pools and an empty camp so we bring the old guys over.

I explore upstream and frighten a couple nervous squirrels with a blues harp jam. There are frequent croaking noises near camp and I’m convinced it’s a frog. Old Man says it’s something else, but we never find the source and the disagreement remains unresolved. A nearby owl keeps us constant company throughout the night.

Day 3 – West arm of Grapevine Creek to Lonetree Canyon:

Today is our longest day of hiking so Jack and the Old Man are on the trail before sunrise. We follow up and meet them at the foot of Grapevine Canyon. They’re out on an exposed point right at the lip of Granite Gorge. This rest stop is not for the acrophobic.

There is a minor unnamed side canyon below Lyell Butte that we traverse on our way west towards Boulder Canyon, where we stop for lunch. A few minutes upstream of the crossing there are some shaded pools of seasonal water connected by a mere trickle. I still find it hard to believe we’re seeking daytime shade in the second week of March.

The trek continues and we contour around into Lonetree Canyon. Mantis and I occupy the lower camps. There is some sporadic seasonal flow here as well, and we lounge next to a series of slickrock pools. Jack and the Old Man will not be alone at the upper camp, three hikers on a guided trip file in from the west. Their paid guide looks to be pushing seventy years old and limps into camp thirty minutes after his clients. I hope I’m still backpacking The Canyon at his age.

I explore downstream for awhile. The mystery of the croaking noise is solved and I was right, they are frogs. Lots of them. An entire orchestra of bullfrogs serenades us during the night.

Day 4 – Lonetree Canyon to Tonto Platform west of Cremation Creek:

In the morning I venture upstream almost to the base of the Redwall for another harp jam. We are unlikely to find water on the rest of our trip so we focus on hydrating and lounge in Lonetree Canyon until after lunch.

The trail west around into Cremation Canyon is crisscrossed by multiple old burro tracks. I stay on the main outer trail, but Mantis discovers one of those tracks is an easy time saving southern shortcut to the east rim of Cremation Canyon. Before this section, he had been approximately twenty minutes behind me and occasionally falling out of sight. After the shortcut I turn to check on him and to my disbelief he’s right behind me.

We rest briefly in the main bed of Cremation Creek under the shade of a cottonwood. There is no nearby water here, so we continue out of this canyon to the west; making camp near the edge of the use area boundary in order to shorten tomorrow’s hike out. Zoroaster Temple basks in a spectacle of sunset colors.

Day 5 – Tonto Platform west of Cremation Creek to South Kaibab Trailhead:

As if yesterday wasn’t enough, the sunrise this morning is just unbelievable. I can’t stop staring as the glory of Zoroaster is slowly revealed. This has to be one of my all time favorite waking sights! Inspiring enough to handle the seven mile hike out in about three and a half hours, despite some sore feet from relatively new boots.

Driving to the trailhead takes much longer than usual as we battle blizzard conditions between Williams and the South Rim. When we finally arrive there are several inches of fresh powder on Grandview Trail and some icy conditions. We debate using icewalkers/crampons; I’m the only one who doesn’t and promptly fall on my ass only a few feet below the rim. I manage the rest of the way without slipping again, but take some steep sections very slowly. After a short break at the Hance/Cottonwood saddle, the Old Man, who had removed his icewalkers, also slips on some ice banging up his shoulder and hip.

I make it down to Horseshoe Mesa before them and wait at the remains of Pete Berry’s one room cabin, rusted piles of cans are scattered everywhere. When they show up it’s clear the Old Man shouldn’t attempt the hike down to Cottonwood Creek. His injuries from the fall are not severe, but still too painful to continue.

We will stay atop H-Mesa for the night and reevaluate tomorrow. The Old Man’s in bed literally as darkness sets in and Jack follows shortly. I manage to stay up with a pipe and cocktail for awhile on a very bright and cold night with no clouds and a near full moon.

Day 2 – Horseshoe Mesa to Hance Creek:

The quart of water in my tent is almost completely frozen over at sunrise. I stroll out to the east arm of the mesa where views from the backcountry shitter are inspirational. On the way back I notice an icy pothole that could probably yield a half gallon of water.

Bad news awaits my return to camp. The Old Man announces he’s too bruised up to complete the trip and will leave today. This is an unfortunate, but not unexpected, turn of events. Jack and I convince him of an alternate plan. Old Man will stay here on H-Mesa and heal up for the next two days (he’s still probably too sore to risk the hike anyway) while Jack and I descend to Hance Creek and back. I tell him about the pothole I found and then we offer up the rest of our water. Since he has no stove we swap out his dehydrated meals for our dry food.

Jack and I spend the rest of the morning exploring Cave of the Domes. While he is waiting for me at the main entrance, I find a small exit to the east and startle Jack by circling around and sneaking up right behind him.

After lunch we trek down to Hance Creek. There is no one else here so we commandeer the large site on the lower west side of the creek. Naturally I give Jack and his snoring plenty of distance, and in return I’m lulled to sleep by owl hooting and creek gurgles.

Day 3 – Dayhike from Hance Creek:

In the middle of the night I woke up and barfed. Must have been the re-hydrated lasagna … with perhaps a contribution from Jack Daniels. Anyway, I wake up a little late, but feeling fine.

Jack will rest up today while I day-hike Hance Creek downstream to Sockdolager Rapids at The River. There are lots of deer and bighorn tracks in the mud along the banks. The canyon closes in as the sandy bottom gives way to granite walls and bedrock. I’m not one that easily buys into abnormalities, but I can’t help feeling a spooky “being watched” kind of sensation here.

Soon after the granite narrows begin I have to remove boots and wade through a narrow pool. Further downstream there is a 20+ foot impassable waterfall sans rope, followed by another apparent pour-off. Backtracking, there appears to be a bypass above to the east. The temptation to continue is strong, but I have told Jack I’ll be back at sundown, and the truth is I probably don’t have enough time.

Returning to camp Jack points out a solo hiker heading east on the Tonto towards Mineral Canyon. Turns out she’s an on-duty ranger, and checked in with Jack to make sure we were permit legit. Jack unsuccessfully attempts to stay up until 8 pm.

Day 4 – Hance Creek to Horseshoe Mesa:

Start hiking back up to H-Mesa around 10:30 am. Before approaching the spur trail to Page Spring, we hear the Old Man shouting from the mesa, “Bring mucho agua!” Of course, we already know that and tank up completely at the spring.

We rendezvous with the Old Man and he gives us the account of his last two days alone which he spent primarily exploring, including the cave. The ranger left him a note about displaying a permit, and he almost ran out of water, also his body is feeling better for the hike out tomorrow. He takes us on a hike out to the extreme point of the west horseshoe arm. Incredible views, The River can be seen in three different places upstream, all the way to Hance Rapids.

Downstream the depths of Granite Gorge appear surreal, as does the surrounding landscape. For future reference I observe that water can be found at the bottom of Cottonwood Canyon, at least this time of year.

The Old Man falls asleep with his IPod on and actually starts singing. First time I’ve ever heard someone singing in their sleep.

Day 5 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

Old Man has no recollection of his singing this morning but I find out Jack heard it as well. I let them get a head start back up the hill and quickly cover the spread. They both get out the snow gear again, I decline and this time no falling, but still slippery in many places. All make it to the top safe and sound.