The eleventh hour forced a change to our original itinerary. Pablo, Kaiser, Mason, and I had planned to hike the Gems between South Bass and Boucher, but over a foot of snow and closure of the Hermit Road for an indefinite amount of time made that mostly impossible. We were told by Service personnel that we “would need a tank to get to the trailhead.” When the rest of us meet Kaiser to set up a car camp at the South Rim, Pablo balks at all the snow and offers to buy a room at Maswick Lodge for the night. No complaints from anyone. Plan B’s are discussed and at one point we nearly scuttle The Canyon entirely, but we settle on hiking the Escalante Route.

There is so much snow the backcountry office opens 2½ hours late at 10:30 am. This jeopardizes our chance to get to Tanner Rapids before sundown. We soon learn that’s irrelevant because the Desert View road is closed, thus leaving Bright Angel Trail as our only option. I swallow my pride and swap out the permits. Leading a trip from South Bass to Boucher will remain a thorn in my side for now.

This trip will be different, but the company is perfect, and at least we’re still in The Canyon. We hit the trailhead about noon to begin our descent to Indian Garden. The snowfall and clouds are so thick we can’t even see the mile deep gorge we’ve decided to explore. Fortunately a mule train has preceded our passage and there is a well worn path with no ice. Just up the trail from the 1 ½ Mile Resthouse we see a young California condor perched on a cliff face. It has yet to lose all the darker feathers around the head signifying immaturity.

Atop the Redwall clouds finally begin to lift, revealing nice views of the Inner Gorge and snow capped buttes of The Canyon. If we have to stay in developed campgrounds we picked a great time for a storm. Hikers are few and far between, and we share Indian Garden with only one other group.

Everything is damp and there are some patches of snow around, but luckily the snow/rain mix stops falling. Pablo can’t wait to show us his Mexican plaster mug for hot cocoa. He didn’t tell me about it previously, because he knew I would tell him plaster was a bad idea. Reaching into his pack, he finds it broken, never even got to use it once.

Our permit is for four, but we are actually joined by a fifth. His name is Señor Misterioso. He is a few inches tall, glows in the dark, and brings excitement to our otherwise mundane existence. Kaiser and Pablo meet him for the first time on the picnic table at night. As usual, Pablo’s thundering banshee snore echoes off the canyon walls throughout the night.

Day 2 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

Pablo is first to rise early and attempts to wake us all to prepare hot drinks and food for him. He is met with expletive laden rebukes, but it’s enough to get us up and ready for our morning day-hike to Plateau Point. Yesterday a Ranger told us the storm would last for a few days, but the sky is almost entirely clear. The scenery from the point is spectacular. We can see Bright Angel Trail descending into the canyon cut by Pipe Creek. Granite Gorge plummets beneath our feet to the west. The snow clad faces of Zoroaster and Brahma Temples are especially striking.

The trek from Indian Garden to Bright Angel is just shy of five miles. We follow Garden Creek until the drainage becomes nearly impassable; then detour along the trail to the adjacent eastern side canyon and switchback down the Devil’s Corkscrew to Pipe Creek. The few hikers we encounter give the top of my pack strange looks. Apparently Señor Misterioso is hitching a ride there.

Below the switchbacks another half hour brings us to Pipe Creek Beach and our first close encounter with The River. A slight, sandy climb up Canyon leads to the first of two suspension bridges that cross over to Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Looking beneath my feet at The River through the grated metal of Silver Bridge creeps me out more than many other exposed areas of The Canyon I’ve encountered.

We choose one of the bigger B.A. campsites and put Pablo in the corner to mitigate the banshee snoring. Kaiser learns a Canyon lesson the hard way. After nightfall he leaves his tent open briefly and a ringtail darts in, grabs some peanuts and climbs thirty feet up a massive cottonwood, all within a matter of seconds. Throughout the night our perimeter is patrolled and invaded by that ringtail; and one small opportunistic skunk that takes advantage of the peanuts dropped by the ringtail.

For a nightcap we head up to the Phantom Ranch Canteen for a few rounds of $4 cans of beer. One of us asks the young woman behind the counter what kinds of beer they have and she replies, “Bud.” The canteen is warm and our spirits are high, as closing nears we are the only customers in the joint.

Day 3 – Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground:

The trek continues today as we plan to hike about seven miles up the North Kaibab Trail, following Bright Angel Creek the whole way. Mason wakes up to find Señor Misterioso hiding in his oatmeal bowl, and later he somehow makes his way into Kaiser’s boot.

Shortly after departing upstream beyond Phantom Ranch, we pass the Clear Creek Trail junction. I take a mental note because I’ll be hiking up that way on a another trip only twenty days from now.

The slot canyon cut by Bright Angel Creek is spectacular and deep with dozens of twists and turns. I wish we had more time to explore the even narrower side canyons and tributaries. There are several bridges to cross, before the canyon opens up to a wider, sunny valley. We stop for lunch above Willow Springs. I am reminded once again of the dramatic temperature fluctuations in The Canyon. Two days ago we were bundled up hiking through snow. Right now we’re comfortably hanging out shirtless and eating lunch so our sweaty clothes can dry out.

As usual I conservatively underestimate how far we’ve come, when we approach the junction to Ribbon Falls it’s only lunchtime. We decide to skip the falls for tomorrow and continue on to Cottonwood Campground. There is a small waterfall where the trail crosses Wall Creek.

The campground is situated within a grove of scrub oak, and we choose an open site closer to the creek since we will need to pump water there (the piped water at this campground is shut down during the winter). Again there is only one other small group here and we never even hear them. Pablo’s banshee snore has stirred a vote among the rest of us and he is unanimously banished to the immediate campsite north of us. But only for bedtime.

We start pumping water at the creek and my filter promptly breaks; some problem with the intake valve. This filter’s been through a lot, perhaps barely enough for this nuisance to be excused. Conveniently, Kaiser brought his pump and we also have backup purifying tablets.

I start to heat up some water for hot cocktails and nearly cook up Señor Misterioso, who is hiding in my Jetboil for some reason. It’s cold and windy tonight but there are lots of stars to gaze at, and some lively debate as to whether the moving ones are planes, satellites, or UFO’s.

Day 4 – Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

The next 2 ½ days will be spent retracing our steps, so we start back towards Phantom Ranch. The side detour to Ribbon Falls is well worth the trip. It’s a beautiful waterfall, somewhere on par with the likes of Elves Chasm or Deer Creek Falls. We sit behind the falls as sunlight filters through the cascading water to warm our bodies from the cool spraying mist.

Knowing what to expect, we knock out the rest of the hike in short order. This time we choose two sites next to Bright Angel Creek, one is for the banishment of Pablo.

A herd of mule deer grazes in and around our camp. We have seen deer every day of this trip. Two does walk right up to Pablo’s tent while he’s inside, and he never even notices.

After dinner we mosey back over to the Canteen again. This time the place is packed. There are maybe fifty people in here and not a seat to be had. Some folks are just sitting on the floor. We have to drink our first round standing up until some seats finally clear. Luckily the $4 beer tonight is Tecate, so at least there our situation has improved. Back at the campsite Kaiser, Mason, and I enjoy some late night libations.

Day 5 – Bright Angel Campground to Indian Garden Campground:

We awake to cloudy skies, and it appears the bad weather we’d heard about last night from a Canteen patron is going to materialize. Light showers and mist accompany us throughout our hike back up to Indian Garden. When we stop for lunch I discover Señor Misterioso has been in my food bag, stomping my pita bread into pieces.

We try to dry our gear out after stopping, but the rain and snow falls just enough to foil us. Mason and I move our tents to a high ground campsite where there’s a little more room under the picnic shelters. We also help to move Pablo’s table so he can stay drier. Kaiser and I finish the last of the whiskey in some hot cocktails, complete with lemon juice and honey packets, courtesy of the Canteen.

Day 6 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead:

We get our earliest start of the trip and make the hike up in about three hours. Light snow and rain makes things interesting and chilly. Ice cold Guinness awaits us in Kaiser’s truck.

There is a fair amount of leftover snow, ice, and slush almost all the way to the switchbacks below Skeleton Point, which makes for slower going than usual.  We pause for two mule trains coming up. Lunch stop is at the Tipoff where a trail crew is making improvements, including the use of a jackhammer. Apparently it weighs about eighty pounds and they carry it up from Phantom in two man teams.

The rest of the trail below the Tipoff is a typically steep descent through the Inner Gorge. We see a California condor perched on the rim of a drop beneath us. Just above the tunnel to Black Bridge, Jack encounters a young Japanese man. He is starting for the South Rim with less than two hours to darkness and 6+ miles of uphill hiking; with no water and apparently no flashlight. Jack worries and discourages him, but the language barrier is a real problem. In the end we give him a couple cups of water; he bows in gratitude and continues. Jack tells a ranger about him just to be safe and we never hear anything more about it. Hope he made it alright.

In Bright Angel camp there are several desert bighorns grazing over a hundred feet up the steep canyon walls across from the creek. A near full moon brightens our canyon to the point that we can walk up to the Canteen without the use of headlamps. Jack doesn’t stay for a third round of Tecates and I nearly stumble over a ringtail on the walk home.

Day 2 – Bright Angel Campground to Zoroaster Canyon:

Water wise, a full moon, & things that go BOOM in the night.

A young bighorn crosses the creek near camp as we pack up. We’re heading up the steep first two miles of the Clear Creek Trail about 10 am. At a break in the Tapeats, the ascent levels out at Sumner Wash. We stop to dry out our frosty gear and have lunch while two ravens eye us closely.

The hike continues and I take a mental note at the main drainage below the southern face of Zoroaster Temple. There is plenty of pothole water here to sustain a return in two days if necessary. We misjudge how far we’ve come just before rounding the point that gives way to a great view of Clear Creek gorge. This is near the halfway point and our late start has put us behind my desired schedule.

In a small gully just south of the Zoroaster Canyon crossing there is one full pothole. I have a decision to make because it’s getting late. I’m not sure if we can make Clear Creek before dark and we’re getting low on water. I scout ahead and there are two viable campsites near the major drainage. The safe bet is to make camp and take advantage of this water.

I’m testing out a new water purification device called the Steripen (from here on referred to as the Zapper), it’s a battery powered device that uses ultraviolet light to purify water. It appears to work but I have my doubts so Jack has brought his pump to be safe.

After setting up I wander down canyon and find a mule deer leg, the last remnant of a carcass devoured some time ago. A full moon rises even before it gets dark, it will be a long, bright night without a cloud in the sky. Around 10 pm Jack has been in the sack for awhile and I’m just about to turn in when we both hear a loud booming noise; apparently emanating southwest of us. We have both heard rock falls in The Canyon but this noise seems much different, it almost has an industrial/explosion type quality.*

*Questions posed to Service personnel later are fruitless and the noise remains a mystery

Day 3 – Zoroaster Canyon to Clear Creek:

We wait for the sun to dry things out and then hit the trail. There is a herd of seven mule deer, including a six point buck, less than a hundred yards from camp. My decision yesterday to make camp short of Clear Creek was probably correct but also unnecessary. On the correct side, there is no visible water until we reach the creek. On the unnecessary side, our hike to the creek only takes little over an hour so we could have made it. The descent into the west arm of Clear Creek is steep and has a couple narrow, somewhat exposed sections that require focus.

At the Canteen two nights ago I overheard that Cheyava Falls are not flowing. It’s somewhat reassuring since we plan on day-hiking up the creek, but probably don’t have enough time to get all the way up there.

The first few minutes up creek are tedious, but then we cut a foot path that predominantly sticks to the west bank. There are some fantastic Anasazi ruins up this side canyon.

Back in camp I briefly explore downstream of our camp to the junction with the east fork. Steep canyon walls keep the moonlight at bay until around bedtime.

Day 4 – Clear Creek to Zoroaster Wash:

Unzapable water, unflappable Zoroaster, & unknown ruins.

The Zapper is not working this morning and I’m frustrated. Apparently it’s useless when the temperature is around freezing; making it kind of worthless during the winter, which just happens to be my favorite hiking season in The Canyon. At least we have a backup plan and now I know the Zapper can be unreliable. Retracing our steps up and out of Clear Creek is steep, but we make good time back to the pothole from Camp 2 and drink a quart. Our plan is to stop somewhere on the Tonto platform, east of Sumner Wash and close to water.

Along the way we take an exploratory hike in a side canyon west of the Clear Creek gorge and chance upon another Anasazi ruin. This ruin is a bit smaller than yesterday’s, and the pueblo walls are in a much greater state of decay. It is fascinating to imagine what life was like here around a millenium ago (give or take a couple hundred years). Perhaps there was consistent water available in this creek bed, or at least during wet seasons, because existence otherwise would be difficult at best.

We make camp near the potholes we saw on Day 2, in the unnamed canyon that drains the southern face of Zoroaster, but we prefer to call it Zoroaster Wash. As we dine several mule deer sneak down to the largest pothole below us for a drink. A gathering of bats keeps us company and free from insects.

Day 5 – Zoroaster Wash to Bright Angel Campground:

After some further exploration this morning we head out to the stone bench at Phantom Overlook, which is a superb place for lunch. I get a chance to talk to someone other than Jack for the last three days when we get to the bottom of Clear Creek Trail. I’ve been waiting to hear about the Cardinals 2nd round playoff game and the news is good – we won.* There are more mule deer above the ranch. We have celebratory refreshments at the Canteen before heading back to the campground.

Jack is resting again so I go to the boat beach and then hike the River Trail between the bridges. A California condor circles overhead. I also scout the route to Utah Flats and upper Phantom Canyon for future reference.

*The Cardinals would go on to lose the Super Bowl.

Day 6 – Bright Angel Campground to South Kaibab Trail:

Jack wisely gets an early start and is packed and leaving at 7:30. There are more mule deer on the opposite bank. As I’m getting ready alone a bald eagle flies right up the creek, only about twenty feet from my head. Awesome. That’s the first time I’ve seen one in The Canyon. There is surprisingly little foot traffic, and I make it to the top in about four and a half hours.