A false start extends our labors, & lounging preempts noisy neighbors.

The Bill Hall Trail actually starts with a short uphill climb before descending through the Coconino. At Monument Point we gaze west upon the broad expanding Esplanade. Perhaps the view distracts us, but we continue past the cairned descent onto a foot path that borders the rim. After maybe twenty minutes we can see the trail far below us to the southwest and it’s obvious we screwed up. We backtrack to the correct trail and start hiking down.

The descent finally levels out after about two miles as we reach the Esplanade. It’s a hot day and we have lunch in the shade of a large juniper tree. At the junction with the Thunder River Trail we start bearing south. The nature of the hike shifts from strenuous to a pleasant winding stroll along numerous terraces. Temperature keeps rising and we take another break in the shade of an overhang.

Eventually we arrive at the camps above the Redwall descent into Surprise Valley. We will spend the night here and also leave a water cache for our return in three days. There’s still plenty of daylight so Mantis and I explore around camp before settling in for cigars and cocktail hour.

After dinner I lounge atop a rock overlooking Surprise Valley and watch as several headlamps make their way up towards me. It’s a group of hikers that we graciously allow to share our camp. Our reward? They thank us by jabbering and actually singing away loudly until past midnight. Sometimes even in the remote reaches of The Canyon it is impossible to escape the presence of idiots.

Day 2 – Esplanade above Surprise Valley to Tapeats Rapids:

“I’ve been to Eden” or “Ponce de Leon should have used my map.”

Wake up at 4:30 am after very little sleep, just barely starting to get light. We’re all dehydrated and thirsty, with limited water remaining without raiding our cache. There is a sense of urgency to get down to Thunder River and Mantis leaves within minutes. The desire to kick our noisy neighbors awake is forgivable, but only a temptation.

Old Man and I follow along down the Redwall descent and then east across Surprise Valley. Two hikers coming out pass us. We’re heading to Tapeats Rapids so they tell us the creek is crossable and we can hike the much easier eastern route.

The Old Man and I run out of water at the east end of Surprise Valley, just as the sun comes up over the Tapeats gorge. Here we catch our first glimpse of Thunder River, and what a glorious sight to behold. Two jet streams of water burst forth from an imposing cliff face like dual giant fire-hoses. It’s a subterranean river that literally explodes out of the cliff into a fantastic waterfall.

Old Man tells me it’s the thirstiest he’s ever been and we hustle down to meet Mantis, already at the water. The oasis at the base of the falls may be the most incongruous scene I’ve witnessed in the backcountry. This is a harsh, burning desert brown landscape of jagged rock and piercing thorn. Yet here cold water flows, the green foliage of cottonwoods twinkle with life, and scarlet monkeyflowers are in full bloom.

We soak up this Eden and drink our fill of nature’s champagne. Mantis and I take showers under the falls. They take a nap and I climb up the path that approaches Thunder River Cave at the top of the falls. To reach the cave there is at least one exposed edge to negotiate. I know it’s been done, but I don’t have the stomach for it.

Our solitude is invaded briefly by a group of River rats on a day hike. There is no camping allowed here, but the urge to stay is nearly irresistible. After several hours we pack up and trek down to the junction with Tapeats Creek, which appears to have a slightly higher volume of flow than Thunder River. We know the east route is a much easier hike so we find the best apparent place to cross, just below the upper campground. The crossing is as difficult as it looks in swift, thigh-deep water. I am glad to have my trekking pole, and even happier when it’s over.

The next two miles border the creek, winding in and out of prickly pear patches. We take the liberty of dunking in the creek a couple times on a hot day. The second crossing back to the west side is shallow and easy. The trail climbs above the lower Tapeats narrows and then switchbacks down to The River.

We make camp on the west bank of the confluence across from some River rats. Mantis and the Old Man opt to rest while I explore downstream to try my luck fishing. Several suckers or bottom-feeders give my bait visible interest, but there are no takers. Despite losing about 3,500 feet of elevation, tonight’s camp is definitely colder with a cool breeze blowing off The River only a few feet away.

Day 3 – Tapeats Rapids to Deer Creek:

Which combo does not belong? Narrows & pictographs; waterfalls & rainbows; or campsites & rattlesnakes?

Up quite early again to take advantage of cooler temperatures. The next four miles downstream involve some strenuous boulder-picking and a steep climb above the Granite Narrows, all over virtually shade-less terrain. It’s a tough hike and definitely the hottest day thus far. Old Man’s small thermometer reads in the upper nineties by the time we reach the saddle into Deer Creek about midday.

We shake more dust down to the water and enjoy a refreshing dunk in the creek. The so called Patio at the head of Deer Creek Narrows is a nice, shady spot to rest up. After lunch we head down the narrows. The rate of erosion here is staggering. Within minutes there is a plunge down into the creek that is only inches from our feet and probably fatal.

The Granite Narrows overlook above Deer Creek Falls has some of the finest Inner Gorge views that The Canyon can offer up. Mantis and I will hike down to the falls while the Old Man takes a look at the steep descent and decides to rest instead.

Deer Creek Falls are spectacular and we take turns swimming underneath the cascade.

More River rats spoil the scene again and Mantis heads back to upper Deer Creek. I wander downstream and this time luck strikes in the form of a respectable rainbow trout, enough for a three person appetizer anyway. The boats depart so I walk back up and have the falls and some fishing all to myself for the next couple hours. When I get back the Old Man shows me some Anasazi pictographs in the area.

There are two dudes taking up a big chunk of the main campground so we hike upstream to see if there are any sites closer to Deer Creek Spring. One possible option exists near the crossing to the spring but it doesn’t seem that cozy. Even less inviting when the Old Man discovers a rattlesnake under a cottonwood watching us. It seems we shall be sharing the main campground.

Old Man prepares the trout with some fish fry and leftover pita bread, delicious. The mice here are aggressive, especially after the Old Man spills some dinner on the ground at his feet. A bold mouse stops on his boot to scavenge the scraps. Mantis actually plunks another off a log with a small rock.

The bugs are out in force tonight so Mantis sets up our tent for the first time. Old Man is old school and tough, he sleeps outside with a wet bandanna over his head.

Day 4 – Deer Creek to Esplanade above Surprise Valley:

A poor man’s Thunder River, a pair of dunces, & a plethora of clouds.

Expecting another hot day, we decided last night to wait until late today to hike back up to the Esplanade; even knowing that trekking after dark with headlamps is probable. So we sleep in a little, then I walk back down to Granite Narrows overlook for one last contemplation upon The River’s narrowest section within the entire Park.

Some serious clouds roll in to cool things down, allowing us a chance to change our hiking plans. We trek up to Deer Creek Spring for lunch and our last water fill up.

This spring is sort of a poor man’s Thunder River. Not nearly the same flow of water, but it still bursts forth with fervor from the cliff, and there is plenty of greenery. We pump the Old Man some water and he starts switchbacking up to Surprise Valley to compensate for our faster pace. Mantis and I hydrate and eat directly behind the falls where a ledge doubles as a makeshift bench. When we’re packing things to leave a large, winged shadow passes over the ground between us. We look up to spot a California condor.

I catch up with Mantis and Old Man at the west end of Surprise Valley where they’re taking a break. They move on as I rest for awhile. The weather remains a blessing as we get some light sprinkling during the Redwall ascent. Near the top we pass two guys heading down. The elder father has a pack the size of a gorilla with a huge flannel sleeping bag strapped on top. His son-in-law is carrying two daypacks, one on his back and the other on his chest. They are planning to do our five day trip in just two days! We discourage them from attempting their entire ambitious itinerary, being perhaps ill prepared both physically and logistically for this monster trek. They continue anyway.

Atop the Redwall we retrieve our water cache and rest for a spell. We have the option of continuing along the Esplanade for a couple more hours before making camp, but we decide to stay here.

Day 5 – Esplanade above Surprise Valley to Bill Hall Trailhead:

To wish that all good things don’t come to an end.

Wake to partly cloudy skies again, we really lucked out for much of this trip. The first few miles of relatively level hiking along the Esplanade are a nice warm-up for the steep ascent. We’re out by lunchtime for a round of cold beers.

Overlooking Eden.

Jack, D.K., and I are at the Bill Hall Trailhead early because we spent last night near Monument Point. We luck out for now with cloud cover and a pleasant temperature. After a short break at the Thunder River Trail junction we hustle along the Esplanade traverse. Atop the Redwall we stop for lunch and leave a water cache, about two quarts apiece.

During the descent into Surprise Valley, Jack complains about feeling lightheaded. It has warmed up significantly and he’s probably dehydrated. D.K. continues while I wait for Jack, and get him to drink a bunch of Gatorade and water. Eventually he’s ready, so we rendezvous with D.K. and trek out to the eastern edge of Surprise Valley.

From here there are excellent views of Thunder River below, in addition to Tapeats gorge.  D.K. and I gaze down upon the surreal falls of Thunder River during cocktail hour while Jack rests.

Day 2 – Surprise Valley to Tapeats Rapids:

Creek Crossing Blues; & Señor Yermo vs. The Brownie.

Jack borrows my water filter and is heading down to Thunder River early. He’s thirsty and we follow up a little later. I am so happy to be back here, and take a moment of solitude near the source of the falls for a ceremony that’s become something of a tradition.

We eat breakfast and lounge in Eden for a couple hours. Each time I come back here it gets harder to leave but we have a busy day. Our trek resumes downhill and we follow Thunder River to its confluence with Tapeats Creek. The volume of water flowing in the creek is way higher than my last visit. Any attempt to cross the creek or the river looks like a dicey proposition at best, especially without any rope.

At low water the path downstream is much easier along the east bank, but with such a risky crossing we elect to follow the more difficult west route. There are lots of ups and downs and it’s a sweaty haul as the temperature is increasing. Intermittent cloud cover is most welcome for the shade, but it also feels like a contribution to the humidity.

We reach The River at Tapeats Rapids, set up Camp 2, and have lunch. The whole afternoon is up for grabs; Jack chooses to rest, while D.K. and I gear up for some angling. There is no luck for us around the confluence. Another group of backpackers moved in across the creek and we watch as one of them literally snags some kind of sucker with his fishing line.

With the other backpackers and a large River rat camp nearby, we decide to ditch the crowds and start hiking down River. After about half a mile the rapids smooth out and some fish-able eddies are more prevalent.

In due time D.K. catches a few respectable rainbow trout. It’s downright hot now, so he opts back to camp for water and shade, while I decide to work my way back slowly, fishing along the way. I spot a tempting eddy and cast out one of D.K.’s homemade silver spinners. Within seconds I get the big hit, and after glimpsing the size of the fish, holler D.K. back to my position. I battle the fish with my shitty backcountry telescopic rod for a few more seconds, bringing him as close to the bank and my grasp as possible when disaster nearly strikes. The fish, a big brown trout, gives a vicious tug and snaps my line. I instinctively pounce with both hands and secure the fish in shallow water. At nearly twenty inches and three pounds; this could be the biggest fish I’ve ever caught in The Canyon.

D.K. has probably caught more giant fish from here to Alaska than anyone I know, and his complete excitement over the catch only furthers mine. He snaps a couple pictures and we briefly discuss cooking up some fillets, but there’s another more satisfying option. We release the monster back into the water to once again dominate his piece of River turf.

Eventually I return to camp and hang out with Jack and D.K. in the shade before sundown. The swallows are out in force again at lower Tapeats, whirling and swooping above us on their daily insect feeding frenzy. The moon waxes even further towards full tonight and headlamps are largely unnecessary.

Day 3 – Tapeats Rapids to Deer Creek:

A day of catch & release – Jack catches his breath, & D.K. releases his rainbows.

The River route between Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek is hot and longer than it appears (just like last time). Below the saddle into Deer Creek I wait in the shade for Jack. He looks alright when he comes into view so I descend to meet with D.K. at the creek campsite. It is easier to follow the east bank upstream.

With camp set up, we pass through the impressive Deer Creek Narrows, I remind the guys to stop if they have the urge to look around. One misstep here could be fatal. Jack decides to call it a day at the Granite Narrows overlook above Deer Creek Falls.

D.K. and I continue down to the base of the falls for some more fishing. As usual there are a lot of River rats around. There’s also a camp of traditional dories across The River.

Unfortunately, after years of use my cheap reel breaks, but the memory of yesterday’s Brownie is still fresh enough to temper my disappointment. D.K. catches a few more rainbow trout, I’m content to wait in the shade and have an early cocktail hour.

We retrace our steps back to the Patio, marking the head of Deer Creek Narrows, where a raven is pecking at a headless king snake. A little further towards camp we encounter another smaller snake.

Day 4 – Deer Creek to Esplanade south of Thunder River Trail-Bill Hall Trail junction:

Hearing loss & moon rocks.

Jack leaves camp with my filter at 5 am for the double ascent; first out of Deer Creek, and then back through Surprise Valley to above the Redwall. D.K. follows as I stay behind for a spell at Deer Creek Spring to clean his filter and pump more water. The hike up to the Esplanade is still an ass kicker as remembered, taking about three hours of trekking time.

We take a long rest and decide to cover a little extra Esplanade distance before making camp. Jack complains about some hearing loss after completing the Redwall ascent and I am a little worried as he obviously can’t hear some of our normal conversational volume.*

Maybe a mile short of the Thunder River/Bill Hall Trailhead junction we make camp amongst some of the more unique globular red rocks that pepper the Esplanade.

*Jack’s normal hearing would eventually return several days after this trip.

Day 5 – Esplanade to Bill Hall Trailhead:

Fake Arizona rattlesnakes & real Mexican beer.

We all leave at staggered times again, I act as the caboose as usual. Stumble upon a large gopher snake soaking up some early morning sunlight near the trail. It gives me the classic fake rattlesnake routine by thumping its tail against the ground (a sound that anyone with rattlesnake experience knows is a cheap imitation.)

We’re all at the rim enjoying a Tecate at 10 am, toasting to the success of another excellent Canyon trip.

10. South Kaibab

While hiking Grand Canyon is all relative, this trail is one of the easiest at about 7 miles in length.  It has an elevation loss+gain of approximately 9,600 feet. This is a well maintained corridor trail, just watch out for mule droppings.

9. South Bass

This trail, at nearly 8 miles and 8,800 feet of elevation loss+gain, may feature the longest and most difficult drive to the trailhead. By Grand Canyon standards, the steep sections of this trail are short and few between.

8. New Hance

The only thing keeping this trail from lower on the list is its brevity, at 6.5 miles it is the shortest Rim-to-River trail. But at 8,900 feet of elevation loss+gain, your knees will feel the burn of 700 feet of elevation loss+gain per mile. The section between the South Rim and Coronado Saddle is particularly steep.

7. North Kaibab

The only thing keeping this trail from higher on the list is its length, at 14 miles it’s one of Grand Canyon’s longest. This well maintained corridor trail features 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain, but the vast majority of that steepness occurs in the first half. The second half of trail between Cottonwood Campground and Bright Angel Campground is more a stroll than a hike.

6. Hermit

This trail is almost 10 miles long and has an elevation loss+gain of 8,700 feet. While unmaintained, it is still in good condition. Many a Grand Canyon backpacker has found descending and/or ascending the Cathedral Stairs an exhausting proposition.

5. Tanner

What makes this 9 mile trail with 9,300 feet of elevation loss+gain particularly difficult is the complete lack of water, unless you’re lucky enough to be hiking during or right after a storm. The section between the Rim and 75-Mile Saddle is steep, and the stretch from atop the Redwall to the Colorado River is vastly bereft of shade.

4. Boucher

This trailhead is technically located beneath the Rim in Hermit Basin. However, if you plan to hike it all the way to the bottom, the distance from Hermit Trailhead is 10.5 miles. There is an elevation loss+gain of 8,500 feet. The lack of consistent switchbacks through the Supai and Redwall layers make this trail painfully steep.

3. Thunder River

The distance from this remote North Rim trailhead to the Colorado River is 14 miles. Round trip from Indian Hollow contains 8,600 feet of elevation loss+gain. The Esplanade traverse is the only longer portion of this trail that isn’t strenuous. When departing from the Bill Hall Trailhead, this hike can be shortened by about 3 miles.

2. North Bass

Only the most experienced, determined, and physically fit hikers will finish this 13.5 mile hike in 1 day. This trail is very challenging and features many sections that are in poor condition. On the bright side, solitude and perennial water near the halfway point can ease the struggles of this difficult trek.

1. Nankoweap

Ask any veteran Grand Canyon backpacker, and the majority will answer that this is the most difficult Rim-to-River trail. Depending on your choice of trailhead, this hike is about 14 miles long and experiences roughly 11,500 feet of elevation loss+gain. The northern trailhead actually has a substantial elevation gain before even reaching the Park boundary. There are lengthy and laborious steep segments, and the Supai traverse is demanding. Just to spice it up, there is no reliable perennial water until reaching Nankoweap Creek, after over 10 fatiguing miles of hiking.