Grand Canyon Hiking SenorYermo.com

Day 1 – New Hance Trailhead to Hance Rapids:

Pablito, D.K., and I were unable to complete this trip nine months ago. That was due to an over-abundance of caution regarding a minor diabetic issue with Pablito. This time Pablito and I have come back for some redemption.

We’re also better prepared this time for the crazy steepness of the New Hance Trail and make good time. From near the Hance/Red Canyon saddle there appears to be 2 day-hikers attempting the summit of Coronado Butte. At the overlook above the Redwall we take our first break.

The descent through the Redwall and down the ridgeline below is a knee-buster. There are sections where the footing is loose enough to demand careful attention. It is a relief to drop into the bed of Red Canyon and we rest as two ravens float about, waiting for us to briefly abandon our packs. There is some sporadic seasonal water flow up-canyon from where the trail bottoms out.

After a few pour-offs that are bypassed to the east, I hear that unmistakable roar of The River and my pace quickens until Hance Rapids come into view. The water runs green and foamy over piles of boulders that have created the rapids. Pablito follows up and exclaims, “My boots are stained red with the blood of New Hance!”

We make our temporary home in a mesquite patch on the eastern dunes. I chat briefly with a solo hiker camped below us who has trekked here from Tanner Trail. Our late morning start prevents a lengthy lounging session of soaking up the scenery before darkness motivates dinner preparations.

Day 2 – Hance Rapids to east rim of Hance Creek:

Packing up camp, I am reminded once again of the drastic temperature fluctuation possibilities between the rim and River. Winter grips The Canyon and the rim is frosty, but down here I’m perfectly content to complete pre-hiking chores shirtless.

We are running late, it’s nearly noon and we still have to pump water for today’s trek. The pumping goes slow, I have to clean my filter twice to account for the heavily silt laden water.

Finally we are ready to leave and head west along the Tonto Trail, as it climbs towards Mineral Canyon. I passed through here about five years ago, and my memory fails me. We are hiking along a typical Tonto slope, and approaching the point where we should round south into Mineral Canyon, when unexpectedly the trail pinches out to a ledge along a cliff face. I have forgotten and missed the upper bypass to avoid this section.

I approach the beginning of the narrow ledge and immediately brace my left hand against the cliff. Pablito asks if I’m alright and I don’t respond; he’ll find out soon enough. The plunge down to the right drops off for hundreds of feet. The view is so unsettling I vow to make it across without looking down again. To make things interesting there is also a difficult overhang to negotiate.

Keeping my left hand in constant contact with the cliff face I shuffle cautiously in a crouched position to the overhang. No real safe option here but to crawl beneath it. I slink awkwardly along to the end, and then it’s over. I can breathe easy back on the relative safety of the Tonto slope. For the first time I can turn to see how Pablito’s handling this.

Not so good. He is lying on his stomach at the beginning of the overhang and not moving. I ask if he’s okay. Pablito mumbles something then continues slithering across the ledge. Now under the overhang, his heavy pack is leaning too far towards the abyss. He shifts the pack, but overcompensates, and it ricochets off the overhang and sways ever dangerously close to the plunge. He stops again and shouts, “Help me dammit!” There’s really nothing I can do physically to assist, so I just try to encourage him across the rest of the ledge and eventually he makes it.

We take a longer lunch break around the corner so Pablito can regain his composure after the “Ledge of Terror.” The traverse around Mineral Canyon is time consuming. After two false saddles we finally top out on the west side and are treated to fine views of Granite Gorge. We contour south into the deep side canyon cut by Hance Creek, and now we’re in a race against time. Can we make it to the creek crossing before dark?

No, we run out of daylight, and continue detouring minor side canyons with headlamps on. My memory fails us again and I can’t remember how much further we have to the creek. I don’t want to take any chances hiking in the dark and we have enough water to hold out until tomorrow, so we stop in a small alcove off the trail just big enough to make camp. After dinner at least one mouse repeatedly attempts to raid our packs, but we maintain a vigilant defense with stones and trekking poles. Later I hear a larger critter scurrying outside the tent (ringtail?).

Day 3 – East rim of Hance Creek to Horseshoe Mesa:

A creek surprise for breakfast, & a mesa disappointment for dinner.

We wake up earlier after learning yesterday’s lesson, and skip breakfast in favor of getting to the creek. Looking out from our alcove, we still can’t determine how deep the creek’s gorge is until rounding a bend, where the trail unexpectedly switch-backs briefly down to a sandy clearing next to the water. I can’t help but laugh. We had made camp less than a quarter mile from the creek without knowing it! The deepness of the gorge had made it impossible to hear the running water.

Hance Creek is a rare gem, being a source of perennial water in The Canyon. We listen to the water trickle by and relax, a little disappointed that we missed out on this great campsite. Then the trek uphill towards Horseshoe Mesa resumes.

At Miner’s Spring we stop to fill up water for the last time. The trail passes a well known and over-photographed old mining tunnel, complete with abandoned equipment. I stop and take a picture of Pablito. He has been worried about the Redwall ascent but we muscle it out in good time.

We set up camp and stroll over to the west side of the mesa, a nice overlook of Cottonwood Creek will suit just fine for cocktail hour. Pablito is responsible for tonight’s meal and has planned poorly; we both have maybe a cup of pasta. Tomorrow’s lunch stash is raided to compensate.

Day 4 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

Pablito left his pack open outside last night for mice to get into some of the food and trash. Lucky for us they somehow missed our breakfast. We head up the Grandview Trail and I leave Pablito behind, as he loses some momentum at the false rim I had warned him about. At the saddle into upper Hance Creek I pass two younger women backpacking out and make a mental note. Near the rim an older tourist looks shocked at my appearance and asks where I’ve been. I point towards the sliver of River visible above Sockdolager Rapids and say, “There.” He appears unconvinced.

At Grandview Point I’m waiting on Pablito and those two young ladies arrive. Apparently they’ve been following our footsteps for the last four days. We don’t have a ride back to Pablito’s car near the New Hance Trailhead, so I put my mental note plan into action and ask for a ride. My timing is perfect as they oblige right when Pablito arrives at the rim.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.