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Day 1 – Grandview Trailhead to Horseshoe Mesa:

Driving to the trailhead takes much longer than usual as we battle blizzard conditions between Williams and the South Rim. When we finally arrive there are several inches of fresh powder on Grandview Trail and some icy conditions. We debate using icewalkers/crampons; I’m the only one who doesn’t and promptly fall on my ass only a few feet below the rim. I manage the rest of the way without slipping again, but take some steep sections very slowly. After a short break at the Hance/Cottonwood saddle, the Old Man, who had removed his icewalkers, also slips on some ice banging up his shoulder and hip.

I make it down to Horseshoe Mesa before them and wait at the remains of Pete Berry’s one room cabin, rusted piles of cans are scattered everywhere. When they show up it’s clear the Old Man shouldn’t attempt the hike down to Cottonwood Creek. His injuries from the fall are not severe, but still too painful to continue.

We will stay atop H-Mesa for the night and reevaluate tomorrow. The Old Man’s in bed literally as darkness sets in and Jack follows shortly. I manage to stay up with a pipe and cocktail for awhile on a very bright and cold night with no clouds and a near full moon.

Day 2 – Horseshoe Mesa to Hance Creek:

The quart of water in my tent is almost completely frozen over at sunrise. I stroll out to the east arm of the mesa where views from the backcountry shitter are inspirational. On the way back I notice an icy pothole that could probably yield a half gallon of water.

Bad news awaits my return to camp. The Old Man announces he’s too bruised up to complete the trip and will leave today. This is an unfortunate, but not unexpected, turn of events. Jack and I convince him of an alternate plan. Old Man will stay here on H-Mesa and heal up for the next two days (he’s still probably too sore to risk the hike anyway) while Jack and I descend to Hance Creek and back. I tell him about the pothole I found and then we offer up the rest of our water. Since he has no stove we swap out his dehydrated meals for our dry food.

Jack and I spend the rest of the morning exploring Cave of the Domes. While he is waiting for me at the main entrance, I find a small exit to the east and startle Jack by circling around and sneaking up right behind him.

After lunch we trek down to Hance Creek. There is no one else here so we commandeer the large site on the lower west side of the creek. Naturally I give Jack and his snoring plenty of distance, and in return I’m lulled to sleep by owl hooting and creek gurgles.

Day 3 – Dayhike from Hance Creek:

In the middle of the night I woke up and barfed. Must have been the re-hydrated lasagna … with perhaps a contribution from Jack Daniels. Anyway, I wake up a little late, but feeling fine.

Jack will rest up today while I day-hike Hance Creek downstream to Sockdolager Rapids at The River. There are lots of deer and bighorn tracks in the mud along the banks. The canyon closes in as the sandy bottom gives way to granite walls and bedrock. I’m not one that easily buys into abnormalities, but I can’t help feeling a spooky “being watched” kind of sensation here.

Soon after the granite narrows begin I have to remove boots and wade through a narrow pool. Further downstream there is a 20+ foot impassable waterfall sans rope, followed by another apparent pour-off. Backtracking, there appears to be a bypass above to the east. The temptation to continue is strong, but I have told Jack I’ll be back at sundown, and the truth is I probably don’t have enough time.

Returning to camp Jack points out a solo hiker heading east on the Tonto towards Mineral Canyon. Turns out she’s an on-duty ranger, and checked in with Jack to make sure we were permit legit. Jack unsuccessfully attempts to stay up until 8 pm.

Day 4 – Hance Creek to Horseshoe Mesa:

Start hiking back up to H-Mesa around 10:30 am. Before approaching the spur trail to Miner’s Spring, we hear the Old Man shouting from the mesa, “Bring mucho agua!” Of course, we already know that and tank up completely at the spring.

We rendezvous with the Old Man and he gives us the account of his last two days alone which he spent primarily exploring, including the cave. The ranger left him a note about displaying a permit, and he almost ran out of water, also his body is feeling better for the hike out tomorrow. He takes us on a hike out to the extreme point of the west horseshoe arm. Incredible views, The River can be seen in three different places upstream, all the way to Hance Rapids.

Downstream the depths of Granite Gorge appear surreal, as does the surrounding landscape. For future reference I observe that water can be found at the bottom of Cottonwood Canyon, at least this time of year.

The Old Man falls asleep with his IPod on and actually starts singing. First time I’ve ever heard someone singing in their sleep.

Day 5 – Horseshoe Mesa to Grandview Point:

Old Man has no recollection of his singing this morning but I find out Jack heard it as well. I let them get a head start back up the hill and quickly cover the spread. They both get out the snow gear again, I decline and this time no falling, but still slippery in many places. All make it to the top safe and sound.

To see more pictures from this trip click here.