On an intensely hot day in July of 1959, teenager John Owens and two companions hiked down Tanner Trail.  Due to a lethal combination of heat exhaustion, dehydration, and failing judgment his two hiking partners died; one from falling off a cliff and the other from heat stroke.  At Tanner Beach, Owens built a crude driftwood raft and floated down the Colorado River for the next 4 days, ending up on a sandbar near Neville Rapids.  Owens survived for the next few days on cactus pulp and mesquite beans, meanwhile constructing a massive stone landmark that aerial searchers spotted.  He was rescued barely alive by helicopter.

2.  Woman Takes Wrong Turn in Havasu Canyon

Linda Fortney decided to visit the famous waterfalls of Havasu Canyon on a scorching summer day in 1975.  She took a wrong turn and began hiking in the opposite direction of the falls up Cataract Canyon, more than ten miles from the falls and the village of Supai.  Luckily, she found an ephemeral spring with just barely enough flow to avoid dehydration.  Lost, scared, and unwilling to venture far from the spring, she survived for 18 days until Havasupai Indians tracked and rescued her.

3.  Airmen Bail Out of Plane Over GC

During World War II, three air force crewmen were forced to bail out of a plane in flight over Grand Canyon.  The pilot ordered the evacuation on a false alarm and eventually landed safely, but the crew parachuted into the area of Tuna Creek, a remote side canyon.  At the time virtually no known route existed to reach Tuna Creek within the labyrinth of Grand Canyon.  The injured airmen survived on airdrop rations for a week before searchers finally forged a route in and rescued them.

4.  Two Men Swim the Colorado River Through GC

In 1955, Bill Beer and John Daggett dreamed up the idea of being the first people to swim the Colorado River through Grand Canyon.  Their dream, albeit illegal, became a reality.  Outfitted with swimming fins, wetsuits, and waterproof gear sacks they survived the entire run; taking 26 days to complete such a dramatic and trying ordeal.  Bill Beer chronicled their gutsy journey in his book, “We Swam the Grand Canyon:  the True Story of a Cheap Vacation That Got a Little Out of Hand”.

5.  Failed Shortcut Nearly Fatal

Like many young men of his generation, Charles Myers, a college student from New York, turned his back on the east coast throngs and headed west in 1975, eventually arriving at Grand Canyon.  He chose to backpack the Hermit Trail during the hottest time of the year, and did so decidedly unprepared.  When his supply of food ran out on the 1^st day he tried to hike out using an off-trail shortcut, falling off a ledge in the process resulting in severe injuries.  After burning his clothes and possessions in a futile attempt to secure help, Myers spent 10 painful days stumbling around Hermit Creek Canyon before he was found and rescued.

6.  GC Hiking Legend’s Near Escape

Harvey Butchart, the undisputed all-time king of Grand Canyon backcountry hiking, got himself into a fair share of close calls and precarious situations during his decades of experience below the rim.  Perhaps none were more serious than his attempt to rope climb back up a cliff in the Saddle Canyon area.  Butchart, at over 60 years of age, became stuck upside down while still attached to the rope.  After a lengthy struggle he finally freed himself from the rope, only to face more than 30 straight hours of winter hiking in near freezing temperatures to return to his vehicle.

7.  The Powell Expedition

The Powell Expedition of 1869 was the first group of Americans to boat through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River.  They encountered innumerable near-disasters and unbelievable hardships.  While three men who abandoned the expedition tragically died, the remaining explorers survived an unprecedented journey that lasted for over 3 months, under the most strenuous conditions imaginable.

The eleventh hour forced a change to our original itinerary. Pablo, Kaiser, Mason, and I had planned to hike the Gems between South Bass and Boucher, but over a foot of snow and closure of the Hermit Road for an indefinite amount of time made that mostly impossible. We were told by Service personnel that we “would need a tank to get to the trailhead.” When the rest of us meet Kaiser to set up a car camp at the South Rim, Pablo balks at all the snow and offers to buy a room at Maswick Lodge for the night. No complaints from anyone. Plan B’s are discussed and at one point we nearly scuttle The Canyon entirely, but we settle on hiking the Escalante Route.

There is so much snow the backcountry office opens 2½ hours late at 10:30 am. This jeopardizes our chance to get to Tanner Rapids before sundown. We soon learn that’s irrelevant because the Desert View road is closed, thus leaving Bright Angel Trail as our only option. I swallow my pride and swap out the permits. Leading a trip from South Bass to Boucher will remain a thorn in my side for now.

This trip will be different, but the company is perfect, and at least we’re still in The Canyon. We hit the trailhead about noon to begin our descent to Indian Garden. The snowfall and clouds are so thick we can’t even see the mile deep gorge we’ve decided to explore. Fortunately a mule train has preceded our passage and there is a well worn path with no ice. Just up the trail from the 1 ½ Mile Resthouse we see a young California condor perched on a cliff face. It has yet to lose all the darker feathers around the head signifying immaturity.

Atop the Redwall clouds finally begin to lift, revealing nice views of the Inner Gorge and snow capped buttes of The Canyon. If we have to stay in developed campgrounds we picked a great time for a storm. Hikers are few and far between, and we share Indian Garden with only one other group.

Everything is damp and there are some patches of snow around, but luckily the snow/rain mix stops falling. Pablo can’t wait to show us his Mexican plaster mug for hot cocoa. He didn’t tell me about it previously, because he knew I would tell him plaster was a bad idea. Reaching into his pack, he finds it broken, never even got to use it once.

Our permit is for four, but we are actually joined by a fifth. His name is Señor Misterioso. He is a few inches tall, glows in the dark, and brings excitement to our otherwise mundane existence. Kaiser and Pablo meet him for the first time on the picnic table at night. As usual, Pablo’s thundering banshee snore echoes off the canyon walls throughout the night.

Day 2 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

Pablo is first to rise early and attempts to wake us all to prepare hot drinks and food for him. He is met with expletive laden rebukes, but it’s enough to get us up and ready for our morning day-hike to Plateau Point. Yesterday a Ranger told us the storm would last for a few days, but the sky is almost entirely clear. The scenery from the point is spectacular. We can see Bright Angel Trail descending into the canyon cut by Pipe Creek. Granite Gorge plummets beneath our feet to the west. The snow clad faces of Zoroaster and Brahma Temples are especially striking.

The trek from Indian Garden to Bright Angel is just shy of five miles. We follow Garden Creek until the drainage becomes nearly impassable; then detour along the trail to the adjacent eastern side canyon and switchback down the Devil’s Corkscrew to Pipe Creek. The few hikers we encounter give the top of my pack strange looks. Apparently Señor Misterioso is hitching a ride there.

Below the switchbacks another half hour brings us to Pipe Creek Beach and our first close encounter with The River. A slight, sandy climb up Canyon leads to the first of two suspension bridges that cross over to Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch. Looking beneath my feet at The River through the grated metal of Silver Bridge creeps me out more than many other exposed areas of The Canyon I’ve encountered.

We choose one of the bigger B.A. campsites and put Pablo in the corner to mitigate the banshee snoring. Kaiser learns a Canyon lesson the hard way. After nightfall he leaves his tent open briefly and a ringtail darts in, grabs some peanuts and climbs thirty feet up a massive cottonwood, all within a matter of seconds. Throughout the night our perimeter is patrolled and invaded by that ringtail; and one small opportunistic skunk that takes advantage of the peanuts dropped by the ringtail.

For a nightcap we head up to the Phantom Ranch Canteen for a few rounds of $4 cans of beer. One of us asks the young woman behind the counter what kinds of beer they have and she replies, “Bud.” The canteen is warm and our spirits are high, as closing nears we are the only customers in the joint.

Day 3 – Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground:

The trek continues today as we plan to hike about seven miles up the North Kaibab Trail, following Bright Angel Creek the whole way. Mason wakes up to find Señor Misterioso hiding in his oatmeal bowl, and later he somehow makes his way into Kaiser’s boot.

Shortly after departing upstream beyond Phantom Ranch, we pass the Clear Creek Trail junction. I take a mental note because I’ll be hiking up that way on a another trip only twenty days from now.

The slot canyon cut by Bright Angel Creek is spectacular and deep with dozens of twists and turns. I wish we had more time to explore the even narrower side canyons and tributaries. There are several bridges to cross, before the canyon opens up to a wider, sunny valley. We stop for lunch above Willow Springs. I am reminded once again of the dramatic temperature fluctuations in The Canyon. Two days ago we were bundled up hiking through snow. Right now we’re comfortably hanging out shirtless and eating lunch so our sweaty clothes can dry out.

As usual I conservatively underestimate how far we’ve come, when we approach the junction to Ribbon Falls it’s only lunchtime. We decide to skip the falls for tomorrow and continue on to Cottonwood Campground. There is a small waterfall where the trail crosses Wall Creek.

The campground is situated within a grove of scrub oak, and we choose an open site closer to the creek since we will need to pump water there (the piped water at this campground is shut down during the winter). Again there is only one other small group here and we never even hear them. Pablo’s banshee snore has stirred a vote among the rest of us and he is unanimously banished to the immediate campsite north of us. But only for bedtime.

We start pumping water at the creek and my filter promptly breaks; some problem with the intake valve. This filter’s been through a lot, perhaps barely enough for this nuisance to be excused. Conveniently, Kaiser brought his pump and we also have backup purifying tablets.

I start to heat up some water for hot cocktails and nearly cook up Señor Misterioso, who is hiding in my Jetboil for some reason. It’s cold and windy tonight but there are lots of stars to gaze at, and some lively debate as to whether the moving ones are planes, satellites, or UFO’s.

Day 4 – Cottonwood Campground to Bright Angel Campground:

The next 2 ½ days will be spent retracing our steps, so we start back towards Phantom Ranch. The side detour to Ribbon Falls is well worth the trip. It’s a beautiful waterfall, somewhere on par with the likes of Elves Chasm or Deer Creek Falls. We sit behind the falls as sunlight filters through the cascading water to warm our bodies from the cool spraying mist.

Knowing what to expect, we knock out the rest of the hike in short order. This time we choose two sites next to Bright Angel Creek, one is for the banishment of Pablo.

A herd of mule deer grazes in and around our camp. We have seen deer every day of this trip. Two does walk right up to Pablo’s tent while he’s inside, and he never even notices.

After dinner we mosey back over to the Canteen again. This time the place is packed. There are maybe fifty people in here and not a seat to be had. Some folks are just sitting on the floor. We have to drink our first round standing up until some seats finally clear. Luckily the $4 beer tonight is Tecate, so at least there our situation has improved. Back at the campsite Kaiser, Mason, and I enjoy some late night libations.

Day 5 – Bright Angel Campground to Indian Garden Campground:

We awake to cloudy skies, and it appears the bad weather we’d heard about last night from a Canteen patron is going to materialize. Light showers and mist accompany us throughout our hike back up to Indian Garden. When we stop for lunch I discover Señor Misterioso has been in my food bag, stomping my pita bread into pieces.

We try to dry our gear out after stopping, but the rain and snow falls just enough to foil us. Mason and I move our tents to a high ground campsite where there’s a little more room under the picnic shelters. We also help to move Pablo’s table so he can stay drier. Kaiser and I finish the last of the whiskey in some hot cocktails, complete with lemon juice and honey packets, courtesy of the Canteen.

Day 6 – Indian Garden Campground to Bright Angel Trailhead:

We get our earliest start of the trip and make the hike up in about three hours. Light snow and rain makes things interesting and chilly. Ice cold Guinness awaits us in Kaiser’s truck.

Length:

Water: Perennial sources along or near the West Tonto Trail include Indian Garden, Monument Creek, Hermit Creek, Boucher Creek, Slate Creek, and the Colorado River. Seasonal water sources along or near this trail include Horn Creek, Salt Creek, Cedar Spring, Sapphire Canyon, Turquoise Canyon, Ruby Canyon, Serpentine Canyon, and Bass Canyon. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center prior to a trek for water reports.

Campsites: There is no camping between Horn Creek and Indian Garden. Proceeding west there is only designated camping at Horn Creek, Salt Creek, Cedar Spring, Monument Creek, Granite Rapids, Hermit Creek, and Hermit Rapids. West of Hermit Canyon all the way to Bass Canyon is designated at-large camping.  Here you will find camps in nearly every side-canyon and along the Tonto platform in between side-canyons.

Reflections and Attractions: There is so much to do and see along this trail it’s hard to know where to start.  All of the highlights certainly can’t be experienced in just one trip. Views along the entire length are spectacular, especially along the platforms between side-canyons. Every side-canyon has great opportunities for exploration, and many supply access to The River (which can be handy in an emergency). A few of our favorite haunts along this trek include Monument Creek, Hermit Creek, Boucher Creek, Sapphire Canyon, and Ruby Canyon.

Warnings and Musings: The section of this trail between Boucher Creek and Bass Canyon is rugged and remote. Keep this in mind as any rescue or evacuation you may need could take a long time. The trail is also indistinct in places, so much so that you will almost certainly lose the trail at least briefly a couple times, but if you have the proper GC routefinding experience it shouldn’t be a problem. This trail can be deadly during the hot season, so plan and hike accordingly. Part of this trail falls outside the “no fly zone” and you may be treated to an annoying procession of helicopters throughout the day.

Length:

Water: If you’re lucky enough to be hiking right after a storm, pothole water can be found on the Esplanade. Other than that you can find perennial water at Thunder River, Tapeats Creek, the Colorado River, Deer Creek, and Deer Creek Spring. We recommend placing a water cache somewhere on the Esplanade for your return hike.  Do not underestimate your water needs along this trail.

Campsites: The Esplanade has at-large camping and you will find many sites there, perhaps the best of which are above the Redwall descent. Surprise Valley also has at-large camping and there are dry, but scenic sites at the east end overlooking the Tapeats gorge and the magnificence of Thunder River. All other camping is in designated sites only which includes Upper Tapeats, Lower Tapeats, and Deer Creek.

Reflections and Attractions: Simply put, there is way too much fun to be had in this area. Enjoy the moonscape surroundings of the Esplanade. Thunder River is Eden on Earth. Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek provide welcomed and picturesque relief from the heat. Don’t miss the exciting hike through Deer Creek Narrows to Deer Creek Falls. Deer Creek Spring is another excellent destination. Exploration possibilities are seemingly endless, and keep your eyes peeled for Anasazi ruins, pictographs, and wildlife.

Warnings and Musings: This area has proven to be lethal in the summer heat, so be prepared, hike smart, seek shade during the intense heat of midday, and stay hydrated. While it may be tempting to do otherwise, respect this area by camping in the designated sites only. The eastern route down Tapeats Creek is much easier than the western route, only be careful crossing the creek which can have dangerous late spring flows. Watch your step through Deer Creek Narrows, a slip here could be fatal. Mice at the Deer Creek camp are plentiful and bold, a contributing factor to the presence of rattlesnakes in the area.

Length:

Water: During the dry season water will be nonexistent between Bright Angel Creek and Clear Creek, so plan accordingly.  After storms during the wet season water can be found in a number of potholes along the trail between Sumner Wash and Zoroaster Canyon, some of which can be reliable for many days in wet years.  Other than that, the only water you will find is the perennial flow of Clear Creek.

Campsites: There is no camping allowed between Phantom Ranch and Sumner Wash. From there to the creek, camping is at-large. There are marginal sites near the trail, in and between the minor side-canyons east of Sumner Wash, and also in Zoroaster Canyon. Beyond this canyon, sites are limited at best and somewhat worthless given your proximity to the creek.  The campsites at Clear Creek are the best option.

Reflections and Attractions: This is an enjoyable excursion along the north side of the Colorado River, quite similar to the Tonto Trail hiking across The River. The Phantom Ranch Overlook is a great place for lunch or a short break. If you don’t mind the possibility of snow and ice near the rim, we recommend trekking the Clear Creek Trail during winter. Keep your eyes out for wildlife (like mule deer and bighorns) and Anasazi ruins that are “near” the trail. The Clear Creek area is a fine basecamp for extended explorations.

Warnings and Musings: Attempting to reach the at-large camping area at Sumner Wash from either rim is a long day and not recommended. Plan on spending the night before at Phantom Ranch, Bright Angel Campground, or Cottonwood Campground (the longest option). Hike smart here during the hot season, as the trail is virtually shadeless and scorching. Watch your footing during the final, steep descent to the creek. Be alert during the monsoon season for flash flooding in the Clear Creek area.

Length:

Water: There is seasonal water at Seep Spring and the east branch of Royal Arch Creek. The main branch of the creek and the Colorado River have perennial water. The beach at Toltec drainage has seasonal water but it’s salty. The same can be said for the brackish water at Garnet Canyon. To complete the loop, Copper and Bass Canyons both have seasonal water. Always check with the Backcountry Information Center for water reports.

Campsites: This loop trip encompasses the Garnet and South Bass use areas, which are designated for at-large camping. There are sites along the Esplanade section of the route and in the east branch of the creek. The main branch has additional sites and there is a small camping beach at Toltec. Continuing the loop clockwise there are sites at Garnet, Copper, and Bass Canyons, and on the Tonto between these side-canyons. Finally there are small sites on the Esplanade above the Redwall in Bass Canyon.

Reflections and Attractions: The Royal Arch Route is a terrific adventure into some remote GC backcountry. Keep your eyes peeled for Anasazi ruins. The Esplanade section of the route features some smooth strolling and wide open vistas. Depending on the season be prepared to get wet in some of the pools as you approach the arch (which is actually a natural bridge since the water flows underneath) namesake of this route and creek. While the rappel is a simple maneuver for experienced climbers, it is still exciting. Do not skip the side-hike to Elves Chasm. Garnet, Copper, and Bass Canyons are all inviting for explorations.

Warnings and Musings: There’s a reason this is called a route, so be sure to have the appropriate GC experience and backcountry routefinding skills before tackling this hike. We recommend taking the northern bypass route in the east branch of Royal Arch Creek to avoid the exposure at “the ledge.” Make sure your group has the proper gear and climbing background for the rappel. Be very careful if you want to climb above the lower waterfalls of Elves Chasm, this area has proven to be deadly. If you plan this trek during the dry season be water wise and stay hydrated.

Length:

Water: When descending, and after rounding the corner away from Marion Point, there is a seasonal spring above the trail and near the head of this side-canyon.  Perennial water can be found at Nankoweap Creek and the Colorado River. More than any other trail in GC, we strongly recommend placing a water cache for the trek out (Marion Point and Tilted Mesa are good options) while hiking Nankoweap.

Campsites: The park boundary is near the Saddle Mountain saddle and campsites can be found on either side of the boundary, just make sure you’re permit legit if camping on the park side. On the way down there is a small site at Marion Point, and several sites at Tilted Mesa (just be prepared for windy conditions). There are many sites up and down Nankoweap Creek, but the best options are near the trail junction with the creek. Campsites also abound at the beaches of Nankoweap Delta, just be prepared to possibly share the southern beach with River rats.

Reflections and Attractions: Hiking this trail is a rugged GC experience. The Supai traverse can seem never ending, and often approaches the brink of cliffs. The views from Marion Point and Tilted Mesa are priceless, especially if you can time your trip during a full moon. Finally arriving at Nankoweap Creek is a relief. The granaries at The River are a must see. If you have the time and motivation there are nearly limitless exploration opportunities in the Nankoweap area.

Warnings and Musings: Most GC veterans will tell you that Nankoweap is the toughest trail in the park. Know what you’re getting into and don’t underestimate the steepness and length of this trail, below the Supai it sometimes seems as if you’re following the line of most resistance. Be water wise, respectful of the ruins, and if you see any River rats be sure to bum some beer from them.

Length:

Water: There is typically water available at Santa Maria Spring about 2 miles below the rim, but don’t count on it, especially during the hot season, unless you have confirmed water reports from the Backcountry Information Center.  Perennial water can be found at Hermit Creek and The River, but since the creek is permanent between the camp and the rapids avoid the silty River water and filter creek water instead.

Campsites: The Hermit use area has only two designated camping options and both of them are near the end of the trail so plan accordingly.  The first sites are at the trail junction with the creek and feature a nice ledge overhang, a metal pole for hanging food, and a backcountry composting toilet.  The second site is about a mile and a half further downstream near the confluence of Hermit Creek and The River.

Reflections and Attractions: The Hermit Trail offers an exciting hike with breathtaking panoramic views. The resthouse at Santa Maria Springs is a great place to take a shaded break, don’t forget to sign the logbook. Lookout and Breezy Points are appropriately named. There is much to explore and see from the Hermit Creek camp area. Don’t miss the stroll through Hermit Narrows to the impressive sight of Hermit Rapids.

Warnings and Musings: There is no camping between Hermit Creek and the rim, so whether you’re ascending or descending prepare for a long day of hiking. Your legs will feel the burn of the Cathedral Stairs and the long sloping traverse down to the Tonto.  Be alert for critters in the Hermit Creek camp and store your food accordingly.