Overlooking Eden.

Jack, D.K., and I are at the Bill Hall Trailhead early because we spent last night near Monument Point. We luck out for now with cloud cover and a pleasant temperature. After a short break at the Thunder River Trail junction we hustle along the Esplanade traverse. Atop the Redwall we stop for lunch and leave a water cache, about two quarts apiece.

During the descent into Surprise Valley, Jack complains about feeling lightheaded. It has warmed up significantly and he’s probably dehydrated. D.K. continues while I wait for Jack, and get him to drink a bunch of Gatorade and water. Eventually he’s ready, so we rendezvous with D.K. and trek out to the eastern edge of Surprise Valley.

From here there are excellent views of Thunder River below, in addition to Tapeats gorge.  D.K. and I gaze down upon the surreal falls of Thunder River during cocktail hour while Jack rests.

Day 2 – Surprise Valley to Tapeats Rapids:

Creek Crossing Blues; & Señor Yermo vs. The Brownie.

Jack borrows my water filter and is heading down to Thunder River early. He’s thirsty and we follow up a little later. I am so happy to be back here, and take a moment of solitude near the source of the falls for a ceremony that’s become something of a tradition.

We eat breakfast and lounge in Eden for a couple hours. Each time I come back here it gets harder to leave but we have a busy day. Our trek resumes downhill and we follow Thunder River to its confluence with Tapeats Creek. The volume of water flowing in the creek is way higher than my last visit. Any attempt to cross the creek or the river looks like a dicey proposition at best, especially without any rope.

At low water the path downstream is much easier along the east bank, but with such a risky crossing we elect to follow the more difficult west route. There are lots of ups and downs and it’s a sweaty haul as the temperature is increasing. Intermittent cloud cover is most welcome for the shade, but it also feels like a contribution to the humidity.

We reach The River at Tapeats Rapids, set up Camp 2, and have lunch. The whole afternoon is up for grabs; Jack chooses to rest, while D.K. and I gear up for some angling. There is no luck for us around the confluence. Another group of backpackers moved in across the creek and we watch as one of them literally snags some kind of sucker with his fishing line.

With the other backpackers and a large River rat camp nearby, we decide to ditch the crowds and start hiking down River. After about half a mile the rapids smooth out and some fish-able eddies are more prevalent.

In due time D.K. catches a few respectable rainbow trout. It’s downright hot now, so he opts back to camp for water and shade, while I decide to work my way back slowly, fishing along the way. I spot a tempting eddy and cast out one of D.K.’s homemade silver spinners. Within seconds I get the big hit, and after glimpsing the size of the fish, holler D.K. back to my position. I battle the fish with my shitty backcountry telescopic rod for a few more seconds, bringing him as close to the bank and my grasp as possible when disaster nearly strikes. The fish, a big brown trout, gives a vicious tug and snaps my line. I instinctively pounce with both hands and secure the fish in shallow water. At nearly twenty inches and three pounds; this could be the biggest fish I’ve ever caught in The Canyon.

D.K. has probably caught more giant fish from here to Alaska than anyone I know, and his complete excitement over the catch only furthers mine. He snaps a couple pictures and we briefly discuss cooking up some fillets, but there’s another more satisfying option. We release the monster back into the water to once again dominate his piece of River turf.

Eventually I return to camp and hang out with Jack and D.K. in the shade before sundown. The swallows are out in force again at lower Tapeats, whirling and swooping above us on their daily insect feeding frenzy. The moon waxes even further towards full tonight and headlamps are largely unnecessary.

Day 3 – Tapeats Rapids to Deer Creek:

A day of catch & release – Jack catches his breath, & D.K. releases his rainbows.

The River route between Tapeats Creek and Deer Creek is hot and longer than it appears (just like last time). Below the saddle into Deer Creek I wait in the shade for Jack. He looks alright when he comes into view so I descend to meet with D.K. at the creek campsite. It is easier to follow the east bank upstream.

With camp set up, we pass through the impressive Deer Creek Narrows, I remind the guys to stop if they have the urge to look around. One misstep here could be fatal. Jack decides to call it a day at the Granite Narrows overlook above Deer Creek Falls.

D.K. and I continue down to the base of the falls for some more fishing. As usual there are a lot of River rats around. There’s also a camp of traditional dories across The River.

Unfortunately, after years of use my cheap reel breaks, but the memory of yesterday’s Brownie is still fresh enough to temper my disappointment. D.K. catches a few more rainbow trout, I’m content to wait in the shade and have an early cocktail hour.

We retrace our steps back to the Patio, marking the head of Deer Creek Narrows, where a raven is pecking at a headless king snake. A little further towards camp we encounter another smaller snake.

Day 4 – Deer Creek to Esplanade south of Thunder River Trail-Bill Hall Trail junction:

Hearing loss & moon rocks.

Jack leaves camp with my filter at 5 am for the double ascent; first out of Deer Creek, and then back through Surprise Valley to above the Redwall. D.K. follows as I stay behind for a spell at Deer Creek Spring to clean his filter and pump more water. The hike up to the Esplanade is still an ass kicker as remembered, taking about three hours of trekking time.

We take a long rest and decide to cover a little extra Esplanade distance before making camp. Jack complains about some hearing loss after completing the Redwall ascent and I am a little worried as he obviously can’t hear some of our normal conversational volume.*

Maybe a mile short of the Thunder River/Bill Hall Trailhead junction we make camp amongst some of the more unique globular red rocks that pepper the Esplanade.

*Jack’s normal hearing would eventually return several days after this trip.

Day 5 – Esplanade to Bill Hall Trailhead:

Fake Arizona rattlesnakes & real Mexican beer.

We all leave at staggered times again, I act as the caboose as usual. Stumble upon a large gopher snake soaking up some early morning sunlight near the trail. It gives me the classic fake rattlesnake routine by thumping its tail against the ground (a sound that anyone with rattlesnake experience knows is a cheap imitation.)

We’re all at the rim enjoying a Tecate at 10 am, toasting to the success of another excellent Canyon trip.