Due to a late start from Tucson, Mantis and I arrive at the Saddle Mountain Trailhead around 2 AM. Countless rabbits and a lone coyote frantically crossed the dirt road before our headlights, preceding our arrival. After maybe four hours of sleep we are preparing for our trek.

The hike begins as a gradual ascent before dropping sharply into the ravine of a dry creek bed, where we crisscross our way upstream. The trail leaves the creek bed and ascends steeply to The Canyon rim below Saddle Mountain. This is an atypical Canyon trek beginning, as the first three miles are spent mostly battling gravity, as opposed to welcoming the force. With a very heavy pack complete with a water cache, the ascent burns much of my energy.

From here at the rim, the Nankoweap Trail begins and the hiking does not get any easier. The five mile Supai traverse is very demanding, and the fatigue of limited sleep is taking its toll, hurting our chances of making it all the way to Nankoweap Creek. The “scary” narrow section approaching Marion Point has been widened, also the seasonal seep spring north of that point is not flowing. We finally round a point bringing Tilted Mesa into view, a feeling of relief washes over me. Only temporary, as a ferociously powerful gust of wind whips along the trail and knocks my backpack top-heavy body to one knee. Thankfully, I have fallen towards the cliff side of the trail, and not the abyss side. By the time we reach the clearings above Tilted Mesa I call an exhausted halt to our day, and we make a dry camp.

Fearsome winds pound our camp throughout the afternoon and evening. Of all my backpacking trips in The Canyon I cannot recall ever experiencing windier conditions. An amazing red full moon rises from the east and bathes The Canyon in eerie light.

Day 2 – Tilted Mesa to Nankoweap Delta:

After caching some water, we start the Redwall descent early, although it’s already getting warm. There are many steep and unstable sections, places where a slip would send one sliding down dangerous debris slopes. At times this trail literally appears to take the line of most resistance, a characteristic uncommon amongst most trails, perhaps especially in The Canyon. I am not looking forward to returning back up this. Mantis finds an antler where the descent levels out, and it takes about two hours to reach Nankoweap Creek. Now we can relax and drink our fill, since we’re both a little dehydrated.

After resting up we’re following the creek down towards The River. Sometimes the best path is right next to the flowing water; at others it is more efficient to follow footpaths above either bank. At various intervals I choose the former to avoid a climb, while Mantis prefers the latter. It’s a hot two hours to reach The River.

At Nankoweap Delta we reach the spur trail over to the granaries and the beach camp for commercial and private rafting trips. We’d rather not potentially share a camp with River rats, so we set up on the beach north of the creek.

There is absolutely no shade here for the next couple hours until sundown. I place my pack atop a large boulder on the beach and huddle behind it for at least a sliver of protection from the blazing sun. Four rafts float by and we exchange waves. Finally the sun passes beyond the North Rim, giving us a chance to cool off for cocktail hour. Dozens of bats swarm and feast overhead. Between our arrival here and bedtime, The River’s receding tide has exposed almost ten feet of beach.

Day 3 – Nankoweap Delta to Nankoweap Creek:

At first light the foot high stick I placed at the low water level is completely submerged. Two more commercial rigs float by as we pack up camp. We shoulder packs and head over to the granaries spur trail just as the sunlight of another hot day strikes.

This is just a short day hike so we leave packs at the junction and start climbing towards the base of a Redwall cliff overlooking the delta. The ascent is very steep, but relatively short at about six hundred feet. There are many River rats descending from the ruins, one of the guides offers us a couple beers back at the rafts, but our exploration time precludes such a luxury.

The ruins themselves make the ascent more than worthwhile, and our timing is perfect as we have them all to ourselves. The centerpiece is the four “windowed” granaries that are very well preserved due to their location beneath an overhang, although I’m fairly sure the Park Service has done some rehab work on these granaries in the past. Looking down River the view is just awesome. There are two more sets of ruins to the south, but only one can be reached along a series of ledges without significant exposure; at least more than I prefer to deal with. Clearly the Ancients had a better stomach for heights than I do.

Our trek back up to the camps at Nankoweap Creek begins around midday, and it’s already hot again. We stop a couple times to rest next to the cool water and then set up camp at the site right next to the trail’s final descent. The remainder of today is about resting and hydrating for tomorrow’s ascent to a dry camp. Mantis kicks my butt at some hands of blackjack. There are many frogs croaking and even hopping right through camp.

Day 4 – Nankoweap Creek to Saddle Mountain saddle:

I’ve found that when I’m nervous about a particular day of hiking in The Canyon I never need an alarm; the anxiety of first light routinely wakes me. That’s why we’re on the trail by 6 am to wisely take advantage of cooler morning temperatures; and thankfully so, because the steep, grueling ascent to Tilted Mesa takes nearly three hours.

We retrieve our water cache and rest up for a spell, then retrace our steps along the Supai traverse to the campsite near Marion Point before it gets even hotter. Once at the point we have a decision to make. It’s only about noon and I am more concerned than usual about our water supply. If we stop here I think it could probably be an inefficient use of our supply, given that we have about seven hours of daylight left in which to hike. We decide to rest out the hottest hours of the day in the shade here, and then push on to the park boundary.

The rest of the traverse, and the following ascent to the saddle, takes about an hour. We arrive in time for cigars and cocktails before sundown. Our decision has been correct, we still have plenty of water and tomorrow’s hike is an easy, mostly downhill three miles. At over 7,500 feet of elevation, nighttime brings a chill to this camp, and I’m glad to finally have some use (other than pillow) for my long sleeve shirt and lightweight pants.

Day 5 – Saddle Mountain saddle to Saddle Mountain Trailhead:

Just as Day 1 was the hardest beginning to any Canyon hike we have done, today is by far the easiest ending. We make quick time back to the car. Right before the trailhead I hide from Mantis behind a large juniper, and then come running out from behind, scaring the crap out of him, if only for a few seconds. A cheap laugh for a cheap prank.